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  • Hi everyone

    Hi all, Just wanted to introduce myself. I've been tapping away on anything that sounds good since I was 8 yrs old (and still do to this day). I have always been very interested in the drums from that age. I took lessons for 18 months when I was 26. Sold my kit a few years after that and haven't done much for the last 10 years or so but am really keen to get back into drumming and hopefully finish what I started. I am also a very keen motorcyclist :-) And by the way I love this site!!!
    I don't yet have my next kit but I am looking to build my kit from Roland baskets (frames) from which I got the idea from this site and jemmo jemmo on youtube. I have already contacted Roland here in Australia to en-quire about buying these parts and it looks like they're going to sell them to me which is great news. I will source an acoustic kit and cut it down and so on and so forth - you guys know the drill. Have a limited budget so am going to do all of this over time. Anyway thanks for the awesome site. Cheers. Swainy.

  • #2
    Welcome to the forum, Swainy!


    You don't necessary need to get genuine Roland baskets to convert an A-kit to E.
    Lots of folks have looked heavily into 'Backing Supplies' to make their basket-replacement with a center-cone. The 'magic' cue-word will be Fat Daddyo's Cake Pans !


    Have a look at them!
    Happy Drumming!
    Last edited by hairmetal-81; 12-06-13, 12:47 PM.


    "My best friends' name is J-SON. They used to call him 'Mr. Parse.' He has an 'Error'..!"

    http://www.vdrums.com/forum/core/cus...ar33631_4.jpeg

    Comment


    • #3
      Hi Danoh, Thanks. Yeah I've seen those but given that the Roland gear is so cheap - $20.30 for the PD-105 and $24.28 for the PD-125 I thought I might as well go for them. Unless anyone knows for sure that the cake tins are definitely better?

      Comment


      • #4
        Welcome! I slapped a 1"x2" stick of wood at the proper depth in my shells, stuck a trigger cone on em and my builds trigger as precisely as PD-125's, never owned anything newer than those though. It's not rocket science, the magic is in the cone material, proper mounting at the correct depth and quality soldering when it comes to pads. I literally slap a piezo on the side of my shells with double sided tape for rims and have no miss-triggers with factory settings on the TD30.

        I really do not get the complicated builds with adjustable plates and all that. Measure twice, cut once and mount the trigger.

        I think the 1x2 for my snare and 4 toms cost 4 bucks total. If you feel there is a reason to use a basket, then I'd go with the official Roland's for that price over a cake pan.

        Just my two cents!
        TD50 Digital Pack, TD30 and TD9 Modules, custom made pads, Gen16 crashes, and hats plus a few other things that I'm not sure what to do with or why they're still in my kit. Bands: Espada http://www.musicaespada.com/ and JamCo https://www.facebook.com/JamcoEntertainment, https://www.jamcoband.com/

        Comment


        • #5
          Hi BWaj, Thanks for the advice. Sounds like you've got it sussed. I guess I'm just being a bit lazy in that I haven't read enough to know about equivalent DIY setup's that compare in performance to the Rolands. I just thought well hey they've probably done a fair bit R&D and they don't cost too much so I'll just get them. Out of interest though what cone material do you use, how do you mount them to the 1x2, and what is the correct depth? Do you just use the Radio Shack piezo's in the US? We used to have Radio Shack over here but they don't seem to be around anymore. We have an electronics chain all over the country called Jaycar now. Their piezo costs $3.95 and they only stock one kind. I thought well I don't know if their piezo is even the right kind and the guy in the shop didn't know. I thought the Roland piezo's are only $5.49 each and will be sending precisely the right signal that the module is expecting. But again I'm quite a newby so am only speculating. Are all piezo's equal?

          Comment


          • #6
            I don't know 'bout 'all piezo's equal', only that there are different densities of foam, which will have an effect on playing I guess, but have you had a look at Quartz triggers already?


            "My best friends' name is J-SON. They used to call him 'Mr. Parse.' He has an 'Error'..!"

            http://www.vdrums.com/forum/core/cus...ar33631_4.jpeg

            Comment


            • Swainy
              Swainy commented
              Editing a comment
              I havent looked into the quartz triggers and dont know where to start to find those here in Oz. As I said Jaycar only stock one kind of piezo (they werent that helpful). I'll do some research into the quartz ones.

          • #7
            Welcome and thanks for the awesome intro! Love the DIY enthusiasm and please share your progress for the betterment of all!

            Have fun!

            K ;-)
            My bands: Alter Ego, Arcanum
            E Kit = Roland TDW-20s kit // Roland SPD-S// Pearl Demon Drives//
            A Kit = Tama Swingstar 5 pc (1981) w/roto toms (orig owner!) //Zildjians
            A Kit = Natal 6 pc with Paiste 2000 & Zildjian/MidiKNights/DrumSplitters

            Comment


            • Swainy
              Swainy commented
              Editing a comment
              Thanks Kenster, I'll keep updates of my progress coming through but it will be slow progress. I'm kicking off with $300 (after Christmas) and then have a budget of $50 per week until its completed. I'll be looking for a cheap acoustic kit to butcher, a cheap 2nd hand rack etc etc

          • #8
            Originally posted by Swainy View Post
            Hi BWaj, Thanks for the advice. Sounds like you've got it sussed. I guess I'm just being a bit lazy in that I haven't read enough to know about equivalent DIY setup's that compare in performance to the Rolands. I just thought well hey they've probably done a fair bit R&D and they don't cost too much so I'll just get them. Out of interest though what cone material do you use, how do you mount them to the 1x2, and what is the correct depth? Do you just use the Radio Shack piezo's in the US? We used to have Radio Shack over here but they don't seem to be around anymore. We have an electronics chain all over the country called Jaycar now. Their piezo costs $3.95 and they only stock one kind. I thought well I don't know if their piezo is even the right kind and the guy in the shop didn't know. I thought the Roland piezo's are only $5.49 each and will be sending precisely the right signal that the module is expecting. But again I'm quite a newby so am only speculating. Are all piezo's equal?
            I started in edrums in the early 90's when my band was playing all over Mexico. Parts were hard to come by but there was a Radio Shack of all things in Acapulco when I broke my first drum. Back then I bought piezo's mounted in a plastic case meant for use in phones. I can't even remember how I figured out what a piezo was or that Radio Shack had them, it was before the internet. Most likely I had a vision while on peyote but that's another story.

            I can't say they are all created equal but I can say I have never noticed a difference using whatever the shack had inside that plastic, official issue or small ones bought in mass quantities for about 75 cents a piece US. You can try places like this for deals on piezo's, not sure what the shipping would be to you though. http://www.newark.com/multicomp/abt-...0hz/dp/33P6318

            I find this place to be a great deal on triggers with wires already solders, glued and with the cone. http://www.ebay.com/itm/Pack-of-5-Fo...item2ec308e4dd

            They come out to about 13 bucks a piece with shipping depending on how many you get but they are top of the line, imo. They have the double stick tape and everything.

            I have to double check as my last build was a while ago, somewhere in the inch and a 1/4 range give or take. What I did on my first build was take the bottom head off, cut the one by two so it barely fits in the shell. Then I used removable adhiesive putty to temporarily mount the 1x2. You can get that at any hardware store. I tested with the cone barely touching the head, an 1/8" under the head, 1/8th inch above, etc. For me, barely making contact works best because I hit hard and do use dynamics and things like buzz rolls, etc.

            I then used a pencil to mark the inside of the shell at the bottom of the 1x2 and measured to decide where my holes needed to be drilled. Man, I made it sound harder than it is, lol.

            I'll try to take a few pics and post em here so you can see what I'm talking about...
            TD50 Digital Pack, TD30 and TD9 Modules, custom made pads, Gen16 crashes, and hats plus a few other things that I'm not sure what to do with or why they're still in my kit. Bands: Espada http://www.musicaespada.com/ and JamCo https://www.facebook.com/JamcoEntertainment, https://www.jamcoband.com/

            Comment


            • Swainy
              Swainy commented
              Editing a comment
              Wow, That's great information BWaj, thanks I appreciate it. I just looked up those TD30 modules and boy they're not cheap! I think the best deal I could find was $1900 or more on ebay. Maybe I'm better off going for the TD12 or something on my first build?

          • #9
            The TD-30 is Roland's top of the line so you're definately better off going for something older/cheaper while you experiment. The good news is the pads will still work with an upgraded module, so if you decide to do so, you don't have to build new pads.
            TD50 Digital Pack, TD30 and TD9 Modules, custom made pads, Gen16 crashes, and hats plus a few other things that I'm not sure what to do with or why they're still in my kit. Bands: Espada http://www.musicaespada.com/ and JamCo https://www.facebook.com/JamcoEntertainment, https://www.jamcoband.com/

            Comment


            • #10
              Thanks BWaj. In your opinion if I had some PD-125's and then got a TD30 down the track, do you think that the piezo modification to make the 125 pad like a PD-128 is worth it?

              Comment


              • #11
                Originally posted by Swainy View Post
                Thanks BWaj. In your opinion if I had some PD-125's and then got a TD30 down the track, do you think that the piezo modification to make the 125 pad like a PD-128 is worth it?
                Hey sorry, was not here for a while. I've never messed with that so I can't say for sure, anyone else have experience between the two pads? I will say I think so much depends on your playing style. There are probably purist who would argue an extra 2% of performance is worth every penny. I have not had any issues with my DYI's, I can get the same dynamics and accuracy I've heard in all the demos so I can't justify dropping the money on official Roland pads.

                Now, if I actually hooked a PD-128 on my snare, I might chance my mind, lol.
                TD50 Digital Pack, TD30 and TD9 Modules, custom made pads, Gen16 crashes, and hats plus a few other things that I'm not sure what to do with or why they're still in my kit. Bands: Espada http://www.musicaespada.com/ and JamCo https://www.facebook.com/JamcoEntertainment, https://www.jamcoband.com/

                Comment


                • #12
                  I have a pd128 and un-modified pd125 The difference is not that big a deal. That is why I have not modded the 125. Of course, I am using the 125 as a tom but going from the 125 to the 128 on the snare really did not prove to be that much different some but not much. I do like the looks of the 128 better.
                  "It makes sense if you dont think about it"

                  Mimic Pro, SPD-SX, 2-QSC K-10s, K-sub, Yamaha mixer, and a bunch of other expensive cool things!

                  Comment


                  • #13
                    Thanks guys. I'll just build the 125's for now. I can always modify them down the track.

                    Comment

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