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Yet ANOTHER way to manage your cables

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  • Yet ANOTHER way to manage your cables

    Hi folks. I stumbled across this cable-management technique this morning, and since you all have been extremely helpful to me in the past, I hope to return the favor.

    I think I need to do a quick synopsis of my equipment(pad/cable setup) first:

    3 dual-zone pads(snare, crash, ride), using three stereo cables
    4 single-zone pads(hats, three toms), using four mono cables
    1 FD-7 foot controller, one KD-5 kick trigger, using two mono

    I labeled my tom cables with electrical tape, and using some nylon cording, I bound(somewhat loosely, so they can slide as need be) the three tom cables at both ends, and in the middle. After plugging the first cable into the floor tom pad--since it's the furthest away--slide the binding down until you have enough slack to plug in to the right rack tom, then repeat for the left rack tom. Then plug the appropriate cables into the module.

    I used the same method for my hi-hat pedal and kick trigger, so what I basically have is a tom-snake and a foot-snake(sounds dirty, I know)

    As a brief aside, I use a different cable for the hi-hat pad. Since it's the closest to the module, I used a one-foot guitar-type patch cable.

    I haven't QUITE figured out what to do with the remaining snare and cymbal cables, since they're spread out a bit more than the other sets. I'll probably bind them into a "stereo snake", using the same method.

    I generally bind the snake to the rack using a velcro cable tie at some central point, and leave it slack more towards the module. I can also use the cable tie to keep the various snakes organized during transport.

    Hope this helps some of you.


  • #2
    Another way (cheap, neat, easy!)

    I wrote up an earlier version of this method a while back. Here it is again, a bit more concise.

    A roll of velcro tape (black), loops on one side, hooks on the other, about $8 (much sturdier than the supplied velcro!)
    A 1-foot section of grey/black foam pipe insulation.

    Start from the furthest pads from the brain (ride, floor tom, etc.). Leave a little bit of slack by the pad, and wrap the cable once or twice around the mounting rod or cymbal arm to keep things neat.
    Then run the cables along the main rack bars (along the inside, facing you, is even neater!), securing them to the rack about every 12" or so with a strip of velcro. Also use a strip of velcro every time a new cable from a pad joins the rack.
    Continue this for all pads, keeping a nice clean line of cables running along the main bar (or 2), up the verticals, to the arm that holds the brain. Velcro the cables to the rack as needed here.
    Plug in the cables to the brain. (It's a great idea to label each plug at both ends! Although the pad ends should be pretty easy to figure out, coming off the rack at the right place and length.) Now, double-back on the slack in the long cables between the brain and the last cable tie-down (at the beginning of the brain's rack arm), going back and forth over about a 10-12" length, until the excess slack is takemn up. Wrap the doubled-up cables tightly with 2-3 velcro strips.
    Place the pipe insulation (a hollow foam tube slit along one side) over this bundle of cables and secure with more velcro (3 strips should be plenty). Then, secure the pipe insulation bundle to the arm holding the brain with a couple of longer velcro strips.

    The end result is a set of extremely neat, nearly invisible cable runs. And the one wide pipe insulation bundle by the brain takes care of all the slack, neatly. The cables are well-mounted to the rack and transport easily, making set-up fast and simple. I have yet to see a neater solution, and it is indeed cheap. I will be posting pix soon (believe it or not!!!).