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CY-13R Cymbal - Bell Issue

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  • CY-13R Cymbal - Bell Issue

    Newbie - Originally purchased a TD-1K but did not like the rubber pads. The place of purchase agreed to take it back and credit it towards another set - Went with the TD-11K. Love the mesh heads but don't like the CY-13R ride. Issues with the bell not triggering properly. The cymbal on the TD-1K was much better from that respect. I've seen a couple of workarounds for the CY-15R (adding tape between the pad and the trigger to get closer contact, massaging the bell rubber pad to make it more pliable, adding washers between the wingnut and the top of the pad) but I really don't like any of them. Does anyone else have this cymbal and are you experiencing the same issue?


  • #2
    I have a CY 15 and I notice that I really have to hammer the bell for it to register any sound. Luckily for me I don't really have a need for any bell hits so I'm not bothered. As for you well it could be programming the module to increase settings etc or maybe you have a dodgy cymbal? I presume its new so I'm guessing you have a full warranty on it?
    Electronic - Mapex DIY conversion black sparkle10,12,12,14,14 toms.16 bass. TD12, VH-12, CY 12,14,14,15. Jobeky snare. 682 heads, zed head and one Remo silentstroke. Roland PM3.
    Acoustic - Yamaha Maple Custom black sparkle. 10,12,13,14,16,22 Zildjian Avedis Crashes, ride. Quick beat and new beat hats. Yamaha Maple snare, Pearl Sensitone brass snare, Yamaha Bamboo snare, Tee Drums Oak snare.


    • #3


      • #4
        Originally posted by cure1973 View Post
        I have a CY 15 and I notice that I really have to hammer the bell for it to register any sound. Luckily for me I don't really have a need for any bell hits so I'm not bothered. As for you well it could be programming the module to increase settings etc or maybe you have a dodgy cymbal? I presume its new so I'm guessing you have a full warranty on it?
        Yep. Had the kit like a week. And I am a beginner so no bells as of yet. Just kinda bugs me more than anything :-)


        • #5
          Originally posted by EssKayKay View Post
          I noticed the same thing with my CY-13R on my TD-11KV. I set the sensitivity quite high which helps the bell but then affects the bow and edge (I wish you had the option of setting sensitivity separately for each trigger); I also set the volume of the bell at 100%. Just an idea…

          I'll try the settings you suggested. Have just started going through the sound module. Thanks!


          • #6
            Cooped up too long inside this winter, so I've been scouring the forums and have lots of time. I saw the bell/tape posts years ago and never bothered. I just did both my CY-15's in less than a half an hour. Do it! The improvement was huge. I did a single layer on the first as in the video. On the second, I was a bit bolder and just added short, straight strips of a reinforced packing tape I had on hand and then doubled up over that with a second layer bridging the seams on the first. Much faster and it triggers even better than the fussy single layer on the first.

            The hardest part was starting the rubber back on. A piece of wax paper allowed me to get things positioned without the glue grabbing, then remove the wax paper and finish reattaching the rubber. Finger pressure was all I needed to seat the edge (skipped the credit card).

            Pearl Mimic Pro
            Hart Pro Snare TE3.2, 2 @ KT-10, 5 @ PDX-100, CY-15R, 2 @ CY-14, 4 @ CY-12, VH-13, DW9500TB HH, MDS-12X rack hardware & mounts with longer tubes and added bracing.


            • #7
              Yep, those fix's (mods) will work. Also, know that they do get better with some time and play.
              "It makes sense if you dont think about it"

              Mimic Pro, SPD-SX, 2-QSC K-10s, K-sub, Yamaha mixer, and a bunch of other expensive cool things!


              • #8
                When I first got my CY15R I noticed this too, you do need to hit the bell quite hard (too hard IMO) to get it to reliably trigger.

                However, what helps IMMENSELY is actually using the technique that's suggested in the manual and hitting the bell with the shoulder of the stick rather than the head. This is what I've been doing and it works a treat without needing to make any further modifications.


                • #9
                  I just got myself a TD17 KVX. When I plug in the ride cymbal connections in the correct order that is the RDB jack to the bell input and the RD jack to the edge input of the CY13R, the cymbal seems to get self chocked. The entire cymbal sounds chocked and like a piece of rubber with minimum cymbal like sound. But when I reverse the input jacks in the incorrect order, the cymbal sounds fine but the edge and bell zones are reversed. Almost the entire cymbal triggers the bell and only a tiny portion of it triggers the edge. Even in the assignment section when I hit the bell of the cymbal, the Cymbal assignment screen shows RDE making it even impossible to correct the assignment.
                  Has anyone faced this weird issue before? Can someone help to find a way out?

                  Note: I have gone through the Pad Settings and set up the ride cymbal correctly to CY13R which was previously set to CY14C but I changed it and it didn't help out in solving the problem. The problem is still there... Anybody can help out?
                  Last edited by Mainak; 10-04-21, 04:02 PM.


                  • #10

                    That is odd. Perhaps you got an improperly wired CY-13R, but I don't think the headers Roland uses allows the internal connections to be reversed and/or incorrect. The internal headers have locking pins / channels that don't allow cables to be reversed. Maybe Roland received a batch of headers without the locking pin / channel and some of these rides are going out incorrectly wired?

                    Were I you, I'd return that cymbal and get a replacement.

                    Question. If you plug in only the ride jack and leave the bell disconnected, what happens with you strike the various zones of the cymbal?

                    Something else I just thought of, perhaps the edge switch of the cymbal is shorted? If you're comfortable removing the bottom housing of the cymbal, you could disconnect the edge switch header and try the cymbal again.

                    In any event, as above, I think I'd return that cymbal and get a replacement. If you're going to a shop, take your module with you and test another CY-13R with it. I've never experienced shorts or miswiring in those cable snakes, but it's a possibility. There could also be shorts in the DB-25 connector the cable snake plugs into. So yeah, test your module and cable snake with another CY-13R, if you can. If you're still having problems and the shop has another compatible cable snake, swap in a new cable snake and test this with a new CY-13R too.

                    Final thought. Are you one hundred percent sure you've got the correct trigger setting "CY-13R" for the ride inputs? Double check this. Also, try your CY-13R on one of the crash inputs. Plug in the bow / edge input only and see if your CY-13R operates as a two zone crash (bow and edge) as it should.
                    Last edited by TangTheHump; 10-06-21, 01:13 PM.