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My KD-120 bass drum will not stop sliding forward. Any suggestions? I have iron cobra double pedals, and the rubber fell off the bottom of them, so that could be one reason. (Yes I have searched the forum already...I couldn't find anything) I am also playing on a drum mat. Everything with my drums is perfect except for the drum moving forward. Thanks.
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TD-12, KD-120, CY15, CY14. -
Are the spikes in the arms of the KD-120 protruding through the bottom of the feet? If not, turn the rubber feet until they do....
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Make sure the spikes are sharp so the stick into the floor/mat. If the are blunt and rounded, the will be of no or little use. Check the spikes on the BD pedal as well.
Also, if your drum mat is carpet, try using velcro on the bottom of your pedal.
Or, you could position your BD drum as normal, mark its position on the mat, cut two holes where the feet/spikes rest and put in some metal eyelets. This way your spikes will sit in the holes which should help.
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Here are a few previous discussions that may help, pertaining to both pedals and bass drums sliding; I guess they're hard to find without particular key words used.Originally posted by X14Halo View Post
I had excellent success with the "shelf liner" suggestion that I entered in a few of the threads, prior to my current setup with Velcro and spikes on carpet.Hart Pro 6.4 (Hammered Chrome), Roland TD-8, Gibraltar Throne w/ Backrest, Tama Iron Cobra Bass Pedal, ALTEC A7-500 "Voice of the Theatre" Speaker/Horn System with Sunn Concert Slave amp and lot of other audio stuff, Sony MDR-7506 Headphones, Zildjian DipSticks - and Czech Skorpian, Heckler & Koch MP5, etc Submachine Guns to stick out the window behind my kit for some quite unique fills...Comment
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A BRICK. But seriously, i considered a chain or something that anchored it to a leg of my throne..........but a nice thick rug, and the kick spikes out should do it.Comment
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Cross bar
I would add another front rack crossbar or even an arm (bits off Ebay) and set it lower down at pedal height and bolt that baby on. Drill one hole and use a small nut and bolt with rubber washers.Originally posted by X14Halo View Post
My kick is a bolt on so i just lowered one of my front crossbars, it's going nowhere.
Looks like there's a bar at the back of that kd120 stand? maybe u can cable tie it?Last edited by daveybabes; 05-04-08, 01:05 AM.WEBSITE - http://www.diamondelectronicdrums.com/
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Axis pedals are the answer (should you have a spare $500). Their velcro is unstoppable, it'll tear carpet from the floor before it moves an inch. If you flip the hoop clamp upside down, the kick won't leave the pedal, and thus will be really ridiculously immobile.Comment
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Wow...I completely forgot that the KD120 legs have spikes that can come out, haha.
I'll play with it once I get home and I'll let you know how it works out.
TD-12, KD-120, CY15, CY14.Comment
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I have a solution that works really well for me. I bought one of the 1/4" 4'X4' masonite pegboards. Once I had situated where I wanted things, I outlined them with a permanent marker. The tips of the kick were in their appropriate holes. For the left peddle and the hat pedal, I only used one spike - the right spike, removing the left. To keep the base from turning out, I took a small screw, head on the bottom of the pegboard and two nuts on the top near the bottom left of each pad. It works GREAT. It makes my setup ALWAYS the same and incredibly fast. I have a trailer and move the kit setup, only loosening the wings to carry it. I dare say I'm probably the fastest and easiest v-drum setup around. Of course, when it comes to cabling, monitors and mains I use, and my advanced age, I'm still the slowest in the band. Hope this helps, it really does work well. BTW, I sometimes have to nail the pegboard to the stage or tape the sides to keep the board from turning in total. My side or wing feet are off the pegboard as are the back two feet of my throne. It's a good solution.
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I prefer the KD8 to mesh drums as quite a few seem to. Presumably the forces are much the same on the KD120 except the bank balance is reduced accordingly.
I have tried all sorts of rugs, rubber backed, carpet, etc. etc...
I chanced on a roll of HEAVY duty, all rubber corridor flooring cover, industrial type stuff, in my local B&Q. i.e. long and 70mm wide (approx 2'6"). It was £15 for 8 foot. Indestructable
My kick and HH have not moved an inch since. I have two mats now each 4 foot long, one for home base and one for travel.
Thats the answer for me forever.
Downside: they're HEAVY....
(he's my brother.....)
RogerComment
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You gave me a laugh with that Spishak - made me remember chasing my a- kit across the floor years ago during the more frantic songs.....even a brick didn't work, so I used a webbing strap from the kick to my stool - that really did stop it going walkies......Originally posted by SPISHAK View Post
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It's pretty simple all you have to do is get a rug big enough to fit underneath your whole kit including your stool.Make sure your spikes on the kick are out far enough to dig into the rug, your weight alone should stop the kick from sliding.[SIGPIC]Comment
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That's what I said 8 posts ago
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I considered that at first, but a nice thick carpet that the spikes can dig into is really all you need. When I first used the E hi-hat pedal I was chasing it everywhere(even with the spikes out), until I stuck the proper end of some velcro on it to stick it to the carpet.Originally posted by Hercules View PostComment
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Same story here my friend - we must have a similar action - you can do some major damage to carpet with spikes - velcro is the go.Originally posted by SPISHAK View PostComment
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