Roland TD-5

[myersbw]

Hi All! This is my first post other than the Foyer intro. Yes, I'll admit it...I'm a guitarist (snickers welcome, lol). I just traded a harmonizer pedal (about a $150 value) for a Roland TD-5 kit. It had a couple broken pipe fittings, but I found another roland rack for a whole $25! (good deal?)

Anyways, I combined the two (one ribbed, original not) and it turned out wonderful. The pads seem to be the originals. But, all works superbly. Question...if we want to upgrade to a more current drum machine, will most new boxes use those sensors? They're not the dual ones with the rimshot, etc., but it suites our purpose fine.

More importantly, the drummer is happy with them (only do one song a week in church on them). And, are pad upgrades worth it or only if we upgrade the machine, too?

Cheers & thanks!
BradM
SWohio

[ThePod]

The pads should work fine with any Roland module. Do they look like PD8 pads? Ultimately your drummer will want to upgrade both the module and the pads. Depending on your drummers preference mesh heads would be a natural upgrade. These will work well with any upgraded Roland module.
If you explore Alesis, Yamaha, or 2Box you may find that the pads may not work as well..

[myersbw]

IIRC, they're the PD5 pads...not the 8's. Fairly certain of that. and thanks for the advice!

[myersbw]

[mkok]

If your feeling adventurous you could look up on here converting acoustic drums then in the future a new module or try triggering a VSTi. Not sure about that for live although mine never crashes while playing at home. Loads of options but watch out you don't spend more than it would cost to get another decent kit. Easily done

[myersbw]

BTW....and a question. Here's the final result of the combination of two racks...using the best of both. But, one issue we have. The cymbal mount on the right (as viewing the photo)...the elbow won't completely lock that cymbal pad in place and it rotates some when hit. Is there a way to reform, rebuild or some repair that can be done to that joint so it holds securely?

I realize it has quite some extension and angular weight adding to the issue given where the cymbal is placed. I suppose I could try popping a sticky mailing label or two on the shaft...?...but, would prefer a better looking solution.

Thanks!
bradM

[myersbw]

Problem solved! And, thanks for all the input, folks! Here's how it works..and here's the solution. The extended arm slides into an eyebolt, but it's a special one that's fluted on the interior of the ring. This normally "bites" into the arm a bit so modestly tightening the wing nut lets you lock it in place. However, if it's twisted under pressure (or by the beaten drum over years), the inner "teeth" start wearing and strip...losing some gripping power as they flatten out. Also, there's a tight spring on the eyebolt threads that serves to put tension on the arm 'when the eyebolt flute is working properly". But, when the flutes are stripped...the spring works against you. When you tighten the wing nut all the way...the spring is sandwiched and won't let you grab maximum gripping force. The fix? Just remove the spring. That eliminates the counter force and the rod can be locked in tight. You lose the fluidity of slightly loosening the arm and re-positioning, yet it's a fast way to make an aged & worn eyebolt once again lock down the arm to not move on you. Cheers! ~B