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  • VEX Mimic - Alan's HH Settings Tutorial

    (I will adjust this as updates improve)

    Current Firmware: mimic_pro_1_0_6_hc33.mup



    Since I have gotten several requests, I am going to offer my HH setup. Please read all of it before you begin.

    Disclaimer: If your offset is more than ¼ - ½", I'd say these settings will not work, but you’re welcome to try them. Make a backup of your config you can reload if you don’t like them.

    My HH settings are extreme. The settings are for achieving a “sizzle” hat, or hats that are slightly touching while open. This style is used in both rock and jazz alike, and everything in between. It’s more of a personal style choice for those that use it. I do not recommend them, as they are deemed very radical by Sergey (Mr Boo) himself, but if you wish to try them, here’s how I get them.



    1. Perform the calibration as instructed.

    2. HatControl-HH Pos tab: With a heavy foot on the pedal, further adjust the bottom (max close/blue) line to be at where the sensor is reading.

    Now, let your foot off the hat, and drop the top (max open/red) line at, or a little below, the reading.

    While playing various opening & closing patterns, drop the middle line (thresh/yellow) until you feel you've achieved a realistic response in various opening and closing states with your playing style.

    3. Settings tab: I found Footsplash set to 50 works fine, and the other two set to 5 worked best for me, but this will be somewhat dependent on your style.

    4. Zone Volume: These are completely up to you. Use them to adjust for realism. Personally, I use (top to bottom) 5-5-10-10. The last one is probably a little too high.

    5. Velo Curve: Personally, I take dynamics to 100, and adjust the second node for a smoother transition in dynamics. For most seasoned players, this will work very well. Newer players may desire to leave it as is, of boost a little further on nodes 2 & 3. (L to R) Again, this is a setting that is player-dependent.


    Lots of my example demos can be found in this topic.


    Hope that helps!

    ---

    1.0.7.2 Updated Hints from Sergey:

    Some tips for hihat dialing (that is for 1.0.7 software)

    For pad dialing
    - select proper preset
    - dial the input gain for your pad according to the on-screen text
    - use "capture top velocity" function for bow and edge tabs
    For a hihat controller calibration
    - go to hihat trigger settings, HatControl tab
    - use "Capture Close/Open position" function to dial your tight closed and full open settings
    - dial the "close/open border threshold" manually - for this I prefer to double-tap the "close/open border" fader and move the yellow line with hardware data wheel (from bottom to the top) while playng some chick patterns and some "hit-open-hat - then -close -it -with-a - pedal" patterns. You'll find a position where the hat response is ok for your playng.
    Actually - yellow line threshold is basically the hat position where chick sound is generated. So it is kinda when top and bottom cymbals are coming together (on a real hihat) but not yet fully closed. Thus the name.
    -settings tab "footsplash sensitivity" is the foot splash sensitivity =)
    -settings tab "close to open transition sensitivity" is the time that mimic waits for a hihat transition from closed to open after closed hat stroke.
    For tight/fast players it's ok in 5-10 range
    Some drummers prefer slower playing style and use it in 20-40 range
    !! Be absolutely sure that you use TRS cables for your hihat !!
    Alan
    -------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
    website | youtube | facebook | group | newsletter | twitter | message | recommendations

  • #2
    I believe you just described the usual hat calibration from the manual =)
    I mean I don't see anything extreme here

    - set red line to "full open" hihat position meter reading
    - set blue line to tight close hihat position meter reading
    - set yellow line to some comfortable setting - that is actually where you get the chick triggered on a real hihat
    Last edited by Mr.Boo; 12-12-17, 02:12 PM.

    Comment


    • #3
      Originally posted by Mr.Boo View Post
      I believe you just described the usual hat calibration from the manual =)
      I mean I don't see anything extreme here

      - set red line to "full open" hihat position meter reading
      - set blue line to tight close hihat position meter reading
      - set yellow line to some comfortable setting - that is actually where you get the chick triggered on a real hihat
      Probably so; but most of us don't read until we have trouble, and someone else comes along and boils it down with a convincing demo.

      I didn't share the actually more extreme settings you considered radical. However, people may find them on their own by following my simplified steps.

      hint: I bring the max open down quite more than I allude to here... key word in the OP being "little".
      Alan
      -------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
      website | youtube | facebook | group | newsletter | twitter | message | recommendations

      Comment


      • #4
        Originally posted by Alan VEX View Post

        Probably so; but most of us don't read until we have trouble, and someone else comes along and boils it down with a convincing demo.

        I didn't share the actually more extreme settings you considered radical. However, people may find them on their own by following my simplified steps.

        hint: I bring the max open down quite more than I allude to here... key word in the OP being "little".
        the main thing that you missed is that if you want to cut down open layers - then you need to move the red line higher, not lower =)

        but I believe that new automatic setup in the software update will just work for everyone as I see that most people don't like to move some faders )))
        Last edited by Mr.Boo; 12-12-17, 05:05 PM.

        Comment


        • #5
          Originally posted by Mr.Boo View Post

          the main thing that you missed is that if you want to cut down open layers - then you need to move the red line higher, not lower =)

          but I believe that new automatic setup in the software update will just work for everyone as I see that most people don't like to move some faders )))
          Good to hear about the new firmware. I should know in a few moments.

          However, didn't you tell me in email I was cutting off the open layers? If that is true, then isn't your first statement reversed? To bring the hats closer together, I was lowering the max open. This was what was giving me the "sizzle" effect, and closing the hats down a bit more.

          Maybe you should explain these three settings more clearly for everyone - meaning, explain exactly what each line does to the resulting sound with movement up/down. Maybe this will clear up a lot of confusion.

          Off to test the new candidate. Results coming to you later.
          Alan
          -------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
          website | youtube | facebook | group | newsletter | twitter | message | recommendations

          Comment


          • #6
            Originally posted by Mr.Boo View Post

            the main thing that you missed is that if you want to cut down open layers - then you need to move the red line higher, not lower =)

            but I believe that new automatic setup in the software update will just work for everyone as I see that most people don't like to move some faders )))
            Speaking of the "software update" you know, the one most users already have?
            Will this be released before the end of the year or is this still the one you eluded to a few posts back and said January 2018?
            "It makes sense if you dont think about it"

            Mimic Pro, SPD-SX, 2-QSC K-10s, K-sub, Yamaha mixer, and a bunch of other expensive cool things!

            Comment


            • #7
              Originally posted by Alan VEX View Post

              Good to hear about the new firmware. I should know in a few moments.

              However, didn't you tell me in email I was cutting off the open layers? If that is true, then isn't your first statement reversed? To bring the hats closer together, I was lowering the max open. This was what was giving me the "sizzle" effect, and closing the hats down a bit more.

              Maybe you should explain these three settings more clearly for everyone - meaning, explain exactly what each line does to the resulting sound with movement up/down. Maybe this will clear up a lot of confusion.

              Off to test the new candidate. Results coming to you later.

              Red line is the position where your hihat produces fully open sound
              Blue line is the position where your hihta produces a tightly closed sound.

              That;s all =)
              Mimic reads your current hihat position (you can see it on the meter) and looks - where is the current reading relative to these two settings.

              If your hat is currently closer to red line - mimic plays more open sound
              If the current reading is closer to the blue line - mimic plays a more closed sound.
              Last edited by Mr.Boo; 12-12-17, 05:28 PM.

              Comment


              • #8
                Originally posted by Intruder View Post
                Speaking of the "software update" you know, the one most users already have?
                Will this be released before the end of the year or is this still the one you eluded to a few posts back and said January 2018?
                I hope it will be released before the end of the year.
                There are some things like documentation update, site changes and other stuff that take time.

                Comment


                • #9
                  Originally posted by Mr.Boo View Post

                  I hope it will be released before the end of the year.
                  There are some things like documentation update, site changes and other stuff that take time.
                  Cool, thank you.
                  "It makes sense if you dont think about it"

                  Mimic Pro, SPD-SX, 2-QSC K-10s, K-sub, Yamaha mixer, and a bunch of other expensive cool things!

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    Originally posted by Intruder View Post
                    Cool, thank you.
                    in big companies it is not just putting some file online. So it can take considerable time, sorry.
                    I believe you are not comfortable with installing an unofficial software versions, but if you would like to try you know who to ask! =)

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      Originally posted by Mr.Boo View Post
                      in big companies it is not just putting some file online. So it can take considerable time, sorry.
                      I believe you are not comfortable with installing an unofficial software versions, but if you would like to try you know who to ask! =)
                      Thank you.
                      As always, your help is an invaluable benefit to owning a Mimic Pro module.
                      "It makes sense if you dont think about it"

                      Mimic Pro, SPD-SX, 2-QSC K-10s, K-sub, Yamaha mixer, and a bunch of other expensive cool things!

                      Comment

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