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My CY8 is giving up

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  • My CY8 is giving up

    Hi! Looks like my CY8 is somehow broken or something. (((( It is starting to miss-trigger... or however you call when you hit it and it just doesnt play. Sometimes it can be 4 hits in a row. Sometimes 2. But it seems to be happening all the time. Whenever I play some song that is a bit more frequent on hitting the crash. I dont know if I broke it somehow, but my teacher tends to comment i hit too light (I'm a beginner player) so I kinda ruled that out. I saw some people had problems with this cymbal model but theirs were mostly connected to hitting together with a bass drum or sometihng. I dunno, with mine it seems there is no pattern. I refreshed all the settings, my cymbal has a sensitivity set to 15 because after installing 2.0 fimrware it was way too quiet.
    I will gladly try any advice you guys might have, cause this is really frustrating and i am not enjoying playing the kit this way - at all.
    I was thinking just playing the ride as my crash.

  • #2
    This happened with my cy8s as well. I got rid of them and bought cy12rc's for my kit.


    • #3
      and you've been satisfied with it?
      how much did it cost you? I really stretched it buying the kit now....


      • #4
        Some people would spend $1 for a new piezo and replace it. Good as new, not saying much!


        • #5
          The cy12rc is a fantastic cymbal! I have 3 of them.


          • #6
            replace the 27mm piezo to a 35mm one = much better triggering and only cost a few $$. or if you don't want it anymore, send it to me.lol!
            Pearl Mimic pro, A to E 7 piece Pearl Decade maple, ddrum Deccabons, Ddrum DDTi, UFO X-bar triggers, Real feel heads, Gibraltar rack, VH13, PD105 side snare, Roc-N-Soc,Tama Iron Cobra, Iron cobra high hat stand, Cobra clutch, Pearl throne thumper, Roland and Kit Toys cymbals, Roland KC 500, Promark


            • #7
              I agree. Replace the piezo and also check the green tape to make sure there is no debris in between the two strips that will prevent choking.
              Equipment: TD-30KV, DW9000 hardware, ROC-N-SOC Throne, Behringer ULTRATONE K3000FX Amp, JBL EON 615 Powered Speaker, Yamaha MG06X. 1965 Ludwig Super Classic. Black diamond pearl. Zildjian K Custom Dark cymbals, DW 7000 hardware, DW 9000 kick pedal.


              • #8
                Guys thanks for the tip! Didnt even cross my mind to do some DIY fixing. I'm totally up for it. Do you know maybe of some youtube vid or some forum post that i can look into to be prepared what awaits me when i open it up?


                • #9
                  . digitalDrummer
                  Review index


                  • #10
                    Very good video. Thanks for posting Allan.


                    • #11
                      Despite the incompetency demonstrated in this post here, I say fix it. Save money. Unless the ribbon switch is bad, you can't go wrong for a quick fix (eventually) .


                      I just got a 'great condition!' CY-5 off ebay, and lo, nothing worked on it. Here's how I fixed it, after failing to fix it.

                      Knowing that cold or broken solder joints are a usual problem from the cable stressing the jack, I first re-flowed the solder on the PCB …but nothing changed. Key word…re-flowed…should have re-soldered entirely. Then I could have avoided rubber-riffic adventures.

                      But because I was more tired than usual, and thinking I had the dread rubber chunks syndrome, I took it apart rubber wise…top first as mentioned on a post on this forum at this forum link . The pictures there are pretty clear, and were a big help.

                      Not much in the way of problems there though. Cleaned it all out, put it back together, still it would barely trigger…unless you choked it then it would get really normal loud. Well, pooey, bad piezo I thought, so I replaced that. Still no change.

                      So I took it apart again, checked the ribbon sense all over. No change. Took another look at PCB again, and did wire to wire, connect to connect continuity checks and the jack's ground connect was intermittent still.

                      What was happening was that when you'd hit the piezo, you'd get half voltage (low sound) then when you choked it, suddenly that switch grounded the works through the alternate ground connection for that, full voltage suddenly (loud) followed by immediate choke.

                      Ground problem! Argh. I overworked the problem as usual. This time I applied new solder to the problem contacts (main ground for jack), buttoned up the works, and Voila! Now it IS in great condition, functionally. I'll have to re-apply some double sided Scotch tape to keep the rubber in place better (though it's fine as is really). The original piezo, though it looked not that great top wise, was probably just fine.

                      So, if you have a bad triggering dual zone Roland cymbal here are my recommendations based on this and other reading, in order of best practice, excepting the case of #3, which is common also to PD pads and can be #1 thing to check:

                      1. Check the plug itself for wear in. If another cable fixes it, that was the problem.

                      2. No fix? Take the screws out of the bottom, and pull the cover…look for a loose jack, which will be indicative of a bad solder joint. Reflow it, and add some new because it will tend to dissipate otherwise. In my case, the tell-tale clue for this bad joint was cracked glue alongside the jack. I should have trusted that more.

                      3. NO trigger at all? Either jack is not making contact, OR, your have a broken wire inside. Often you will see broken red, or broken red and white wires. Strip and reconnect, all done.

                      4. Self choking? Rubber chunks are inside the track there…you'll have to do rubber top surgery. The rubber is glued at the bottom beneath the choke, you must peel the top, reverse it out to get at it.

                      5. You can check the ribbon sensor using a volt meter. Connect ground to sleeve and then red to middle ring (end is piezo). You should see near infinite when open, then when choked, you'll see the ohms decreasing near to zero. That's a working switch. If you get low ohms, a continuity without choking, rubber chunks problem, or over-worn switch making permanent contact, replace that.

                      Anyhow, following some semblance of these steps, and working the obvious ones first (don't do this tired) I would guarantee that in most cases you can fix your cymbal and save a lot of money.
                      Last edited by Meshopotamia; 04-21-14, 05:12 PM.
                      - - -
                      Remo Practice set conversion, DIY cymbals, PD-7's & PD-9's, CY-5, Sonor Hi-Hat stand, Roland TD-6V, Zoom RT-123, CB700 snare, Simmons SDMP1 Tunes: https://soundcloud.com/artly-there