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VH-11=awful. Help!

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  • VH-11=awful. Help!

    Hi

    Using TD12 I've set up my VH11 as per the user manual (as far as I can understand the user manual) and it sounds awful. No foot splash, and it sounds somewhere between open and closed no matter whether you play it open or closed.

    Has anyone found out how to set this annoying instrument up correctly?

    Grateful for replies.

  • #2
    The first post in the following thread describes similar symptoms to what you are seeing. Scroll down through the thread to see what the problem turned out to be:
    http://vdrums.com/forum/showthread.php?t=33214

    Let us know if that helps.

    -SD-

    Comment


    • #3
      No, I do not have the hi-hat controller on upside down! And the leads are in the right sockets.

      I have (a) no foot splash sound (just a closed sound in that position), and (b) some uncertainty between open and closed unless I really bash the edge. It doesn't always trigger open when I lift my foot off the pedal (Tama IC Leverglide).

      I've reset it two or three times as instructed in the manual, but each time I get the black arrows to appear, I immediately need to adjust it for correct response in playing - by which I mean, I might as well not have bothered to line the black arrows up at all!

      Something's wrong, but I don't know what.

      Comment


      • #4
        Okay, I now have a small and quiet foot splash sound after turning the foot splash sens up to +10.

        What do the CC Max and CC Resolution parameters do?

        Comment


        • #5
          Have you got a 3mm gap between cymbal mount and sensor tip as shown on Page 7 f the VH-11 manual?

          CC Max sets normally closed (90) or tightly closed (127) for the pedal fully down position.

          CC Resolution, I'm fairly sure, only controls the amount of hi-hat data transmitted via MIDI. I don't believe it affects hi-hat module sounds (although it does provide coarse or fine control of pedal pitch bend for module sounds on other pads).

          Bruce

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          • #6
            do you have the HH Ctrl Type set to VH?

            on my td-20, i hit trigger > F3 for Hi-Hat and there i can change the type from FD to VH. if it is set to FD it does pretty much what you describe.
            My e-kit

            My a-kit

            Comment


            • #7
              Originally posted by t_henson View Post
              do you have the HH Ctrl Type set to VH?

              on my td-20, i hit trigger > F3 for Hi-Hat and there i can change the type from FD to VH. if it is set to FD it does pretty much what you describe.
              A TD-12 has settings for VH12 or VH11/FD.

              (And FD is the correct setting for a VH-11 on a TD-20.)

              Bruce

              Comment


              • #8
                well then my post was useless lol. i wasn't aware of all that.
                My e-kit

                My a-kit

                Comment


                • #9
                  Please don't get mad, but I like to go for the simplest solutions, because after that I'm usually out of my league!

                  Have you checked all cables for continuity?
                  Are you being careful to assure you are not hitting any pads, pressing any pedals, etc. when turning the module on and waiting for it to fully boot?
                  Have you performed a reset?
                  Do you have a way to test the VH11 with another TD12 or 20 module known to be in working condition (i.e. local Guitar Center or such)?

                  Simple problems, like simple pleasures, are the best. Here's hoping all your problems are simple!
                  Id rather be told the ugly truth than handed a pretty lie.

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    Since we can't be there with you to test things we have to go through them logically starting with the simplest problems and making sure that you have everything set up OK.

                    Also note that you need a hihat stand with a fairly strong spring to cope with the weight of the VH-11.

                    I too would check that the pad setting is correct as in section 8 on page 20 of the TH-12 manual. Then you need to make sure all of the equipment is working.
                    1. Make sure the leads are functioning by testing them with another pad (make sure head and rim are working).
                    2. Check the VH-11 pad is functioning. With the module off, plug your output lead from the VH-11 into the crash input. Then turn the module on and see if you get the expected crash sounds when you hit the VH-11 head and rim. When you're done remember to put the VH-11 back into the hihat input
                    3. Check the controller switch is functioning. Take the VH-11 pad off the top of the controller so you can access the inner metal sensor ring of the controller. Put the pad somewhere close by so you can still hit it with a stick. Strike the pad multiple times and as you do this press the central sensor ring into the controller - it has to go below the level of the top of the outer ring on the top of the controller - you should hear the hi hat sounds go from open to closed.

                    What's the result of these tests?
                    Last edited by Swaledale; 01-18-09, 05:15 PM.

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      Hello all - I'm *very* grateful for your help, and I'm sorry I haven't been getting back. I took the brain and the hats to the shop today (quite a way away) to test and ensure everything is okay, so that kept me off the board.

                      Tested the shop demo kit vs mine first simply by replacing the (lower) barrel 'cymbal' which was fine. Then with both cymbals, also fine, then with my brain and cymbals. Also fine. Now I'm home it appears to be okay, and I feel at least I've had the shop demo kit to compare to. I also tried a few of the kits on the demo brain to compare with mine, and although the triggering seems a bit odd in some of them, at least they are the same as mine. I'm satisfied it's not a bum kit, is what I'm saying.

                      Thanks for the 'simple solution' stuff - all checked and running. My hi-hat settings are correct, the little black arrows line up perfectly and the triggers are triggering where they should. It's set to VH11/FD. The ring on the bottom cymbal closes the hats as you guys say it should.

                      I'm off now to the VST/ S2 version of this problem, where people have (again, I'm ashamed to say) very politely been reminding me to get back to them.

                      Comment


                      • #12
                        Originally posted by progsmacker View Post
                        I'm off now to the VST/ S2 version of this problem, where people have (again, I'm ashamed to say) very politely been reminding me to get back to them.
                        Yeah I left a reply there last night with something that I think could be your problem: http://www.vdrums.com/forum/showpost...03&postcount=4. I hope it helps!
                        Roland: TD12, KD85, PD105, PD85 x3, CY15R, CY14C, CY12R/C x2, CY5, VH11
                        DW: 5002-TD3 Kick Pedals, 9120AL throne + backrest
                        Yamaha: HS1100 HH Stand
                        Audio Technica: ATH-M40fs Cans
                        Jeroen: Custom Electric Cowbell
                        Kentley: Custom Piezo Trigger Splitter x2
                        ByteArts: VEX TD-20 Kits: Top 50 1&2, Gigging Kits, Exotics 1, Professor's Pack
                        Vdrumlib: Drum Librarian

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                        • #13
                          Thanks for that Mutnat. I changed the settings and kept them there, although the fix doesn't change the S2 problems as you'll see on the other thread.

                          Comment


                          • #14
                            Originally posted by progsmacker View Post
                            Tested the shop demo kit vs mine first simply by replacing the (lower) barrel 'cymbal' which was fine. Then with both cymbals, also fine, then with my brain and cymbals.
                            What do you mean with "BOTH" cymbals.... are you using a VH-12 rather than a VH-11?

                            Comment


                            • #15
                              I wondered about the "both cymbals" too, but I think the second is the "(lower) barrel 'cymbal'".

                              Originally posted by progsmacker View Post
                              The icon in the 'level' lines up precisely with the two arrows when my foot is down on the pedal
                              Pardon my lack of foot-on experience with a VH-11, but isn't the idea to calibrate it with the clutch screw loosened and the cymbal resting on the sensor? Isn't this different to calibrating with your foot pressed down?

                              Bruce

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