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Drilling holes in MDS50K rack

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  • purpledc
    replied
    Originally posted by Howstamychi View Post

    Not according to Roland Corporation U.S. Los Angeles, CA. I was told the warranty was void on the kit the second you took the wires out of the rack, I assume that includes drilling holes. I could have been told erroneously. I'd be very careful about statements inviting mods to the TD-50 and stating they're non obstructive to the warranty, rack included. What if they ask for return of the rack with the module or pads for testing purposes? They'd sooner replace the rack if it was malfunctioning than the module. Yes I would think they'd simply ask to ship the module and test it out with a rack of their own so I could be absolutely wrong here just being cautious and relaying what I was told. People can do whatever they like to their kits obviously. Too many lawyers in my family I guess. My final post on this thread.
    Roland isn't going to encourage or condone you making mods to the kit period. No company will encourage you to modify its products. That is just the stance they all take to protect themselves. But that doesn't mean they are going to interrogate you on every single thing you have done to it since you purchased it if you make a warranty claim. Like you aren't going to say, "my snare stopped triggering" and them say "well we will get it replaced under warranty but I need detailed pics of your rack to make sure you have not done any mods. It just doesn't work that way. Plus, they aren't going to want you to send your entire rack in with all the cables for testing. Its simply not practical to invest that much money in shipping when the only possible issue could be a bad cable in the rack. that would be like Toyota wanting you rip out and replace the frame of your car because someone put a door ding in it at the supermarket. . There is no magic in there that they need for testing. If a cable fries they send a new cable. Not a new rack and cables. And like I said, you may void the warranty on the rack bar or maybe even the rack itself but not the whole kit. I think taking it to those extremes is paranoia. And I cant think of a single incident that resulted in a warranty claim being denied due to an unrelated modification. Especially if that modification was independent of the warranty issue. Sure we can lean on what is theoretically possible. But only if we ignore everything that is actually plausible and probable.
    Last edited by purpledc; 04-28-19, 10:57 AM.

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  • Bhutch216
    replied
    I drilled 5/8 holes and used 1/2 grommets for the regular cables. 1 hole and 3/4 grommet for digital ride usb cable. I think it turned out pretty clean. The tape to the left of the hihat is where an iPad clamps to the rack and I dont want it chipping away the paint or powder coating.
    Last edited by Bhutch216; 04-19-19, 05:12 PM.

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  • Hoppy
    replied
    Looks nice... I really like the way it tidy's up your rack.

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  • vmastro
    replied
    Awesome!

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  • Bhutch216
    replied
    Originally posted by Howstamychi View Post
    Good luck if you do it would be cool to see a pic.
    Turned out pretty good. Im still waiting on the shorter cables for my AUX outputs but the hi hat went smooth. Just need to keep working the grommet til it seats completely.

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  • Bhutch216
    replied
    Originally posted by vmastro View Post
    I think the bigger problem will be trying to pull cable through a conduit that is pretty full.
    Actually that was the easy part. The hard part was getting the grommet on.

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  • vmastro
    replied
    I think the bigger problem will be trying to pull cable through a conduit that is pretty full.

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  • Howstamychi
    replied
    Originally posted by purpledc View Post
    You can easily drill into rack tubes. They are not hardened. Just use a sharp bit and do a punch in the spot you want to drill to hole so you aren't slipping all over the place. Even do a small pilot hole first. You may also want to put a rubber grommet in the hole so you don't cut into your trigger cables. As far as a warranty issue, its usually not that strict.. When you buy a drum set its comprised of components. And often the warranty is different for the various pieces. You likely would void the rack bars or maybe even the rack but they wouldn't be denying a module issue or pad issue due to a rack mod. In some places that's not even legal.
    Not according to Roland Corporation U.S. Los Angeles, CA. I was told the warranty was void on the kit the second you took the wires out of the rack, I assume that includes drilling holes. I could have been told erroneously. I'd be very careful about statements inviting mods to the TD-50 and stating they're non obstructive to the warranty, rack included. What if they ask for return of the rack with the module or pads for testing purposes? They'd sooner replace the rack if it was malfunctioning than the module. Yes I would think they'd simply ask to ship the module and test it out with a rack of their own so I could be absolutely wrong here just being cautious and relaying what I was told. People can do whatever they like to their kits obviously. Too many lawyers in my family I guess. My final post on this thread.
    Last edited by Howstamychi; 04-16-19, 09:05 PM.

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  • purpledc
    replied
    You can easily drill into rack tubes. They are not hardened. Just use a sharp bit and do a punch in the spot you want to drill to hole so you aren't slipping all over the place. Even do a small pilot hole first. You may also want to put a rubber grommet in the hole so you don't cut into your trigger cables. As far as a warranty issue, its usually not that strict.. When you buy a drum set its comprised of components. And often the warranty is different for the various pieces. You likely would void the rack bars or maybe even the rack but they wouldn't be denying a module issue or pad issue due to a rack mod. In some places that's not even legal.

    Leave a comment:


  • Howstamychi
    replied
    Neat. Looks like a beautiful kit and the grommets will look great as compared to a serrated hole (which I sort of imagined). I'm sold especially if you have no plans to sell it. Not that you couldn't sell a great kit like that with or without mods.
    Last edited by Howstamychi; 04-16-19, 02:57 PM.

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  • Bhutch216
    replied
    Heres where I was planning on drilling and the grommets I have.

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  • Bhutch216
    replied
    Originally posted by Hoppy View Post
    I have a TD20-SX and replaced the front bar with a longer one from Gibraltar for aesthetic and symmetrical reasons (so I could offset the bass pad to the right without hitting a downtube).

    I also didn't like the way Roland runs the cable from the module through the rack, so I did a modification, had to a little drillification to route the cable to what I think is the better position.
    I had a crappy old corded drill with dull bits, wrestled with the tube while drilling, cleaned it up with a file, rotated to the plastic cable port, to get it done. I've attached some pics.

    Also I read above about some threaded elements on the rack, which parts are those? Did the rack change from the 20/30/50 progression?

    Roland_Rack_TD50.JPG


    Roland_Rack_TD20_1.JPG

    Roland_Rack_TD20_2.JPG




    I think he meant rethreading the cable snake through the rack.

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  • Hoppy
    replied
    I have a TD20-SX and replaced the front bar with a longer one from Gibraltar for aesthetic and symmetrical reasons (so I could offset the bass pad to the right without hitting a downtube).

    I also didn't like the way Roland runs the cable from the module through the rack, so I did a modification, had to a little drillification to route the cable to what I think is the better position.
    I had a crappy old corded drill with dull bits, wrestled with the tube while drilling, cleaned it up with a file, rotated to the plastic cable port, to get it done. I've attached some pics.

    Also I read above about some threaded elements on the rack, which parts are those? Did the rack change from the 20/30/50 progression?

    Roland_Rack_TD50.JPG


    Roland_Rack_TD20_1.JPG

    Roland_Rack_TD20_2.JPG





    Attached Files

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  • Bhutch216
    replied
    Thanks for the input. Its mainly the kick drum and ride cymbal and 2 hi hat cables that Id like to have come out right where they are. Everything else is within a few inches of the rack ends. Im not worried about selling it either.

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  • Howstamychi
    replied
    Originally posted by kgoroway View Post

    You're doing it wrong.

    The tubes are compatible with all round drum rack tubes. Here. I even went out of my way to find you a black one since you don't like chrome.

    https://www.amazon.com/Goedrum-Drum-...ateway&sr=8-12
    Nice! I stand corrected. I don't have your wiring skills to rethread and I'm talking about drilling anywhere on the rack, sides included, but you definitely have a point here. As long as that meets the official specs of an MDS-50k rack you're golden.

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