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Drilling holes in MDS50K rack

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  • Drilling holes in MDS50K rack

    Has anyone ever drilled into the rack tubing? I have the TD50K with the forth tom and 2 extra cymbals and have been able to run all the extra cables, including the digital ones, through the rack. But I was thinking about drilling 1/2 holes along the rack and then have the cables come right out where they need to be to keep everything super clean. I play out 3 or 4 times a month and thought that would save some time instead of having to Velcro loose cables every time I set up. Obviously Id line the holes with a rubber grommet so it doesnt damage the cable if it rubs against the edge. Any ideas or thoughts?

  • #2
    There goes your warranty and any chance of selling it for a good price down the road. People generally don't want one's homemade inventions they want pure factory; any mods are a reason to haggle you down in price. But if that doesn't matter, go for it. I'm a lefty so I had to dissemble the entire rack to get the module on the right. I would reassemble it righty again if I were ever to sell it.

    When I made the rack lefty and the wires spilled out at the joints I nearly had a heart attack, but the MDS-50k is absolutely designed to go lefty and it's an ingenious and elegant design actually. I also find that the cables are nicely designated to be where they need to be easily supported by those plastic cable clips that come with the rack. I use minimal velcro and that's only for MIDI and audio cables. But you are playing live and I am not so I offer this because most people don't mess with the rack but I did (with Roland's permission and warranty still valid) and you plan to. Good luck if you do it would be cool to see a pic.
    Last edited by Howstamychi; 04-16-19, 12:13 AM. Reason: additional thought

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    • #3
      Thanks. I already got a deal of a lifetime on this kit because I ordered the 50K and the company sent the KV box of pad and hihats. I called them and said that everything was correct on their end and just keep it. But I have 3 young kids that will be playing in them for years to come so I highly doubt I would sell the whole kit. Maybe just upgrade modules down the road. Im going to go for it.

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      • #4
        I haven't tried drilling a hole but I agree with the above. Once you start drilling holes then it's non standard although if you do a good job and it adds cables then maybe not so bad. I have maxed out my TD30 and use tie wraps to hold the cables which looks tidy enough for me.

        Inverting the rack to left handed would not void the warranty. In fact I have a Roland leaflet on how to do this for my rack. It took quite a while to do and lots of messing with the cables to get it right
        Roland TD30 module on TD20 kit SD3 with various kits. Pearl Masters Kit, Yamaha 9000RC original natural wood finish. Cymbals from Zildgian Pasite and Sabian. Loads of percussion bits. Cubase and Wavelab always current versions.

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        • #5
          The tubes are cheap. Very cheap. If you are worried about resale, or voiding warranty (on rack tubes?!), or anything else, just buy replacement tubes, and drill those instead...keeping the originals intact.

          I drilled holes in mine, but not for the same reason as you. I replaced my top center tube with a longer one so I could fit more rack toms, and the Roland tubes have holes drilled in them for their clamps to hold things better, and at the proper angle...so the replacement tubes needed those holes added. Pretty trivial after doing the measurements.
          eKit (TD-30KV): http://www.vdrums.com/forum/performa...y-s-drums-td39
          aKit: (Tama Starclassic): http://www.vdrums.com/forum/acoustic...ma-starclassic
          TD30Browser: http://www.vdrums.com/forum/general/...4-td30-browser

          Comment


          • #6
            Originally posted by kgoroway View Post
            The tubes are cheap. Very cheap. If you are worried about resale, or voiding warranty (on rack tubes?!), or anything else, just buy replacement tubes, and drill those instead...keeping the originals intact.

            I drilled holes in mine, but not for the same reason as you. I replaced my top center tube with a longer one so I could fit more rack toms, and the Roland tubes have holes drilled in them for their clamps to hold things better, and at the proper angle...so the replacement tubes needed those holes added. Pretty trivial after doing the measurements.
            It ain't cheap:

            https://edrumcenter.com/products/rol...nt=32256589315

            Hell yes voiding warranty on ENTIRE KIT once you drill into the rack tubes if Roland were to find out, which I'm sure they wouldn't if you sent in a Tom or cymbal. But you are voiding the warranty on the kit as a whole if you ever had a meltdown and had to return the TD-50 hoping for a new one. They wouldn't touch it with a ten foot pole and you'd never get a new one. They would expect the rack to be shipped with the kit for testing. God forbid, giant pain, but peace of mind knowing I'm covered across the board. It would void my 3 year extended warranty from Sam Ash as well and I'd be more inclined to throw my whole kit in the car and throw it at them than ship to Roland.

            If you can easily buy replacement rack tubes in a timely manner your idea is solid, but you'd have to completely remove the wiring from the entire rack and rethread which sounds like a nightmare. My experience is they don't sell items like rack tubes separately or if they do it's a hassle to get and as expensive as half the original item. The MDS-50K is a nice rack, not as nice as the giant silver one but it's too big for me at 6'4" and the space I'm in and I don't like silver racks.

            Trust me no one wants to buy your homemade mod rack with holes drilled in it if you ever plan on selling. But let's hope you never sell it and if you are making a beast of a kit more power to you drill away. Potential to look awful is there. Clean factory rack with wires inside any day for me.
            Last edited by Howstamychi; 04-16-19, 09:38 AM. Reason: Typo

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            • #7
              Originally posted by Howstamychi View Post

              It ain't cheap:
              You're doing it wrong.

              The tubes are compatible with all round drum rack tubes. Here. I even went out of my way to find you a black one since you don't like chrome.

              https://www.amazon.com/Goedrum-Drum-...ateway&sr=8-12

              eKit (TD-30KV): http://www.vdrums.com/forum/performa...y-s-drums-td39
              aKit: (Tama Starclassic): http://www.vdrums.com/forum/acoustic...ma-starclassic
              TD30Browser: http://www.vdrums.com/forum/general/...4-td30-browser

              Comment


              • #8
                Originally posted by kgoroway View Post

                You're doing it wrong.

                The tubes are compatible with all round drum rack tubes. Here. I even went out of my way to find you a black one since you don't like chrome.

                https://www.amazon.com/Goedrum-Drum-...ateway&sr=8-12
                Nice! I stand corrected. I don't have your wiring skills to rethread and I'm talking about drilling anywhere on the rack, sides included, but you definitely have a point here. As long as that meets the official specs of an MDS-50k rack you're golden.

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                • #9
                  Thanks for the input. Its mainly the kick drum and ride cymbal and 2 hi hat cables that Id like to have come out right where they are. Everything else is within a few inches of the rack ends. Im not worried about selling it either.

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                  • #10
                    I have a TD20-SX and replaced the front bar with a longer one from Gibraltar for aesthetic and symmetrical reasons (so I could offset the bass pad to the right without hitting a downtube).

                    I also didn't like the way Roland runs the cable from the module through the rack, so I did a modification, had to a little drillification to route the cable to what I think is the better position.
                    I had a crappy old corded drill with dull bits, wrestled with the tube while drilling, cleaned it up with a file, rotated to the plastic cable port, to get it done. I've attached some pics.

                    Also I read above about some threaded elements on the rack, which parts are those? Did the rack change from the 20/30/50 progression?

                    Roland_Rack_TD50.JPG


                    Roland_Rack_TD20_1.JPG

                    Roland_Rack_TD20_2.JPG





                    Attached Files
                    Hardware: TD20SX --> Roland UA-25EX --> MSI GT780DX w/ i7 2670, 16-GB of Ram, Windows 7
                    Software: Superior Drummer 2.0, Metal Foundry SDX, Metal Machine EZX, Toontrack Solo - - Sonor X1 Studio - -

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      Originally posted by Hoppy View Post
                      I have a TD20-SX and replaced the front bar with a longer one from Gibraltar for aesthetic and symmetrical reasons (so I could offset the bass pad to the right without hitting a downtube).

                      I also didn't like the way Roland runs the cable from the module through the rack, so I did a modification, had to a little drillification to route the cable to what I think is the better position.
                      I had a crappy old corded drill with dull bits, wrestled with the tube while drilling, cleaned it up with a file, rotated to the plastic cable port, to get it done. I've attached some pics.

                      Also I read above about some threaded elements on the rack, which parts are those? Did the rack change from the 20/30/50 progression?

                      Roland_Rack_TD50.JPG


                      Roland_Rack_TD20_1.JPG

                      Roland_Rack_TD20_2.JPG




                      I think he meant rethreading the cable snake through the rack.

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                      • #12
                        Heres where I was planning on drilling and the grommets I have.

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                        • #13
                          Neat. Looks like a beautiful kit and the grommets will look great as compared to a serrated hole (which I sort of imagined). I'm sold especially if you have no plans to sell it. Not that you couldn't sell a great kit like that with or without mods.
                          Last edited by Howstamychi; 04-16-19, 02:57 PM.

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                          • #14
                            You can easily drill into rack tubes. They are not hardened. Just use a sharp bit and do a punch in the spot you want to drill to hole so you aren't slipping all over the place. Even do a small pilot hole first. You may also want to put a rubber grommet in the hole so you don't cut into your trigger cables. As far as a warranty issue, its usually not that strict.. When you buy a drum set its comprised of components. And often the warranty is different for the various pieces. You likely would void the rack bars or maybe even the rack but they wouldn't be denying a module issue or pad issue due to a rack mod. In some places that's not even legal.

                            Comment


                            • #15
                              Originally posted by purpledc View Post
                              You can easily drill into rack tubes. They are not hardened. Just use a sharp bit and do a punch in the spot you want to drill to hole so you aren't slipping all over the place. Even do a small pilot hole first. You may also want to put a rubber grommet in the hole so you don't cut into your trigger cables. As far as a warranty issue, its usually not that strict.. When you buy a drum set its comprised of components. And often the warranty is different for the various pieces. You likely would void the rack bars or maybe even the rack but they wouldn't be denying a module issue or pad issue due to a rack mod. In some places that's not even legal.
                              Not according to Roland Corporation U.S. Los Angeles, CA. I was told the warranty was void on the kit the second you took the wires out of the rack, I assume that includes drilling holes. I could have been told erroneously. I'd be very careful about statements inviting mods to the TD-50 and stating they're non obstructive to the warranty, rack included. What if they ask for return of the rack with the module or pads for testing purposes? They'd sooner replace the rack if it was malfunctioning than the module. Yes I would think they'd simply ask to ship the module and test it out with a rack of their own so I could be absolutely wrong here just being cautious and relaying what I was told. People can do whatever they like to their kits obviously. Too many lawyers in my family I guess. My final post on this thread.
                              Last edited by Howstamychi; 04-16-19, 09:05 PM.

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