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Roland TD-25KV - VH-11 hi-hat calibration driving me nuts

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  • Roland TD-25KV - VH-11 hi-hat calibration driving me nuts

    Hi, I'm a first time poster here, the (up until today and this problem!) excited owner of a new TD-25KV kit.

    I had started to play a bit and everything was fine, then I read the manual in more detail and discovered I had to calibrate the hi-hats. I've followed the instructions carefully, watched online videos of the process, and researched online, but for the life of me I cannot get that damn meter to move no matter how much I tighten or loosen the nut. To have this expensive piece of kit come down to twisting this damn metal nut is driving me nuts, to put it mildly.

    I've read several posts on the topic but I can't find any information that helps. No matter how tight or loose the nut is, the line on the interface doesn't move. The only time it does move (upwards) is when I lift the hihat off the sensor. When it's resting on the sensor, the line doesn't move in the slightest and the nut doesn't make any difference.

    I would really appreciate it if someone could help me with this incredibly frustrating problem. Thanks!

  • #2
    In my case too, the line move just a little bit. The good way to it in my case, is to block the cymbal on the good height above the sensor (some milimeters) and then it fits near good, then use the nut for very light adjust.
    Last edited by Kaerio; 12-06-17, 09:56 AM.
    TD-12, A2E drum, R-Drum trigger (snare and kick), Triggera Intrigg (toms), Drum-tec Design,, Roland & Yamaha cymbals, Roc-N-Soc Nitro, Pearl Eliminator Redline (+ Trick drive shaft) / PC : Asus P8Z68, I5 2550K, 8 Go ram, RME HDSP 9632 interface.


    • #3
      By 'block the cymbal' do you mean lock it with the clutch? I don't understand, shouldn't this be calibrated with the clutch undone and the hihat resting on the sensor?

      I'm exchanging emails with someone from Roland, but I'm not getting a solution. And I can see this issue coming up repeatedly, but no one seems to have a decent answer to the problem.


      • #4
        After a day of hassle, I finally solved the problem. I had to use a TOWEL to protect my fingers enough to be able to turn the adjustment screw with enough force so it worked. I've been trying to turn that damn thing enough for a day, and searching for a solution all that time. It's ridiculous that it requires such force. Anyway, now my hihat performs and sounds like it should.

        It's discouraging to have such a beautiful bit of kit and then be confronted with that clunky, viciously serrated screw. I thought I'd left such things behind when I switched to electronic kits!


        • #5
          Agreed. I had to mess with this on my sons kit. I have a VH-12 and you just drop the hat and hit calibrate. Much easier
          Roland TD30 module on TD20 kit SD3 with various kits. Pearl Masters Kit, Yamaha 9000RC original natural wood finish. Cymbals from Zildgian Pasite and Sabian. Loads of percussion bits. Cubase and Wavelab always current versions.