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phone jack type?

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  • phone jack type?

    The drum trigger female phone jacks come in different flavors: open, closed, non-switched, switched. Does it really matter? What is everyone typically use?
    Sonor S-classix birch
    Paiste and Sabian Cymbals;
    Mapex ProM ->EAD10; Mesh heads; Yamaha Top Triggers, Gen16 and L80 cymbals;

  • #2
    I think the application usually dictates the type used. I use the open (non switching) TRS (stereo) and TS (mono) jacks in my pan conversions. I usually buy 10-20 at a time and you can certainly wire a TRS jack for mono applications as well. Many use the deep panel console jacks to fit through the vent hole when converting A to E. I believe the switching type will also work, you just don't use the fourth connection.

    Open TRS:



    Deep Panel:

    Attached Files
    Roland TD12 module / DIY Kit in progress, Gretsch Blackhawk A (soon to be E) kit.

    Comment


    • #3
      wish Radio Shack carried the deep panel. Once I drilled the hole in the bass, I had to enlarge the hole from the outside enough to fit the locknut onto the jack.
      Sonor S-classix birch
      Paiste and Sabian Cymbals;
      Mapex ProM ->EAD10; Mesh heads; Yamaha Top Triggers, Gen16 and L80 cymbals;

      Comment


      • #4
        Quick search for "1/4 stereo panel jack" came up with this. Sold by Mouser electronics. Manufactured by Rean/Neutrik. Not sure about quality but at $2.40 per, it's certainly the cheapest price I've ever seen for this type.
        Roland TD12 module / DIY Kit in progress, Gretsch Blackhawk A (soon to be E) kit.

        Comment


        • #5
          Rean/Neutrik products are top notch.
          electronic drum triggers >>> | electronic cymbals >>>

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          • #6

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            • #7
              I just ordered a dozen of the Rean/Neutrik, NYS2203 jacks @ $2.17 a piece from Mouser.com. The Switchcraft version (which according to specs uses better alloys) was $7.91 per unit, also from Mouser.com.
              Roland TD12 module / DIY Kit in progress, Gretsch Blackhawk A (soon to be E) kit.

              Comment


              • #8
                thankx guys. That's a better price.

                Also, question on wiring single zone. I use a Roland TD-3. I wired the black (brass bass) to the sleeve, and red (inner) to the ring. Triggers works fine. But I though I read somewhere that this for Alesis and Yamaha wiring. Roland is black->tip, red->sleeve. Does it really make a difference?
                Sonor S-classix birch
                Paiste and Sabian Cymbals;
                Mapex ProM ->EAD10; Mesh heads; Yamaha Top Triggers, Gen16 and L80 cymbals;

                Comment


                • #9
                  I don't think you'll see an issue on a single zone application (unless you're splitting a dual zone input). Roland uses polarity to help the module separate zones. That's why the Roland wiring diagram always shows Zone 1 (head) piezo wired brass to tip, ceramic to ring (negative polarity) and the Zone 2 (rim) piezo wired ceramic to tip, brass to ring (positive polarity). We like to think of a piezo as having constant positive and negative poles like a battery would but many here will tell you this isn't always the case. Your best bet is to use alligator clips or quick connects to test your trigger both ways and see if you get improved performance one way versus the other. This becomes even more important when multiple zones and positional sensing are incorporated.

                  Attached Files
                  Roland TD12 module / DIY Kit in progress, Gretsch Blackhawk A (soon to be E) kit.

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    thankx for the info. and thankx for your input on my other thread about mesh head triggering.
                    Sonor S-classix birch
                    Paiste and Sabian Cymbals;
                    Mapex ProM ->EAD10; Mesh heads; Yamaha Top Triggers, Gen16 and L80 cymbals;

                    Comment

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