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DIY Hi Hat Controller Options

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  • telengard
    replied
    Originally posted by Intruder View Post
    That seems strange. A acoustic hat is totally linear right?
    why make electric non linear? Or able to adjust it at least?
    Totally agree that it is strange. The movement of the HH is totally linear, but either the response of the eHat2 or the handling of the signal at the module is behaving very non-linear. I would say it is exponential. The slightest amount of initial movement on the ehat2 causes a huge change as seen by the module, but then the rest of the travel (which is a lot) moves very little as seen at the module. The folks at Alternate Mode said their eHat2 should behaving linearly (is that a word??) so it must be the TD-11.

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  • Intruder
    replied
    That seems strange. A acoustic hat is totally linear right?
    why make electric non linear? Or able to adjust it at least?

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  • telengard
    replied
    Is anyone using any of these options on a TD-11? I'm concerned about the lack of calibration options on the TD-11. I just tried out a commercial FSR controller (eHat2) and it didn't work so great. In talking to the vendor of the eHat2, it seems that the Roland module expects a non-linear response from the controller and the eHat2 is pretty much linear.

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  • romolox
    replied
    Originally posted by bwilburn79 View Post
    I'm currently using a Roland TD-12 module in my setup. I'm planning to convert 14" Sabian B8 hats with an A to EZ kit from stealthdrums.com. I'd like to build a controller that will give me VH-12 functionality. I'm tempted to go with the Roland FD-7 build, even using the PDP HH820 stand that JmanWord recommends, because he's proven it to work well with his systems. However, that would add $130+ to the build for me to acquire the stand and pedal. I'm equally tempted to implement the FSR approach because it would be less expensive and apparently works very well. I hesitate because I haven't seen a build that has a finalized look and because I'd have to figure out how to incorporate the FSR with the A to EZ kit. I'd appreciate any advice, or links to FSR based builds or pictures that I might have missed.
    ROLAND TD12 DIY drum FSR (added resistor 10k muuuuuch better opening closing)
    hope it helps
    https://youtu.be/zsa0L-KFWQ8
    Last edited by romolox; 05-18-17, 01:03 AM.

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  • perceval
    replied
    Great! Enjoy!

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  • mibane
    replied
    Thank you to everybody, today I have followed your instructions, I've used a small 0,7 inches FSR and an old hi hat, two pieces of foam with my Roland TD-1KV and it works PERFECT. If I connect it to my mac with EZ-Drummer is simply amazing. Thank you again, now I only need to learn how to play the drums.

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  • perceval
    replied
    That's because that "flex sensor " is basically a FSR

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  • Myrk-
    replied
    You know I came up with an idea for an even better HH controller last night whilst prodding some of my electronics pile - I bought myself a few Nintendo Powerglove bend sensors a few months back for kicks and giggles for my arduino projects... If you put a bend sensor between the 2 HH's, fixing it to the bottom and having a small channel for the sensor to glide against the top cymbal without moving side to side, then add a few resisors to tweak the output then it could act as the variable resistor to send the variable HH position to the module, and it would be 100% accurate for the actual physical positioning of the HH's!

    https://www.sparkfun.com/products/10264

    After I have finished my current Visulite internal HH controller I'll try this one out!
    Last edited by Myrk-; 01-13-16, 02:10 AM.

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  • dsmedic10
    replied
    Using a FSR under my HH pedal with two different foam sponges on top (high and medium density). Wired a mono jack to the leads and plugged into my Roland TD-8. Worked on the first time without any additional configuration. Amazing.
    I used the 1.75" FSR from Sparkfun and a mono jack I had laying around. For a total of about $8 plus 20 minutes of my time, I have a nicely working VH-11-type of hi hat controller working with one cable coming out under my HH pedal. Amazing guys, amazing. Whoever thought of using the FSR for a HH controller is a genius, thank you!

    Derald

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  • thebitterroost
    replied
    This is an awesome group of designs, thanks for sharing! I will definitely have to attempt one of these at some point when I set up my trigger I/O. As of right now I use a DM4 as a module, and only have need for my trusty home-spun momentary switch pedal.

    The rotary pot designs look like they might be the cheapest/easiest to build and implement. What's your preference?

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  • ronyd
    replied
    Looks like I'm in on the FSR HH controller. So, if using my acoustic hats, I still need a trigger from the TD10 - HiHat input?

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  • JmanWord
    replied
    Thanks for updating the links Brian. I thought this thread would make a good Sticky. J

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  • Sylv1co
    commented on 's reply
    Mine also works like a charm after about two years of regular use, and my FSR has a hole in its middle.

  • bwilburn79
    commented on 's reply
    Sorry, I was going by the last post from 8/30/13 where you had settled on a final layering for the foam. I missed the part where you moved the FSR assembly from under the hat to under the foot pedal.

  • perceval
    commented on 's reply
    Been more than 7 months! I had to go back to the thread to see 2011... hasn't missed a beat since then. Had it going with my cheap edrum module, then the Yamaha.

    Yes, I still have my dtx700, a pcy-135 for HH but the FSR is under my HH pedal, not under the cymbal. I tried and did feel there was any advantages in having the FSR under the top HH. Under the foot pedal works very well, and cleans up the number of wires needing to go to the HH.
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