Hi folks Im playing around with sponges and foams for my trigger cylinders. Ive read that sanding blocks are as cloae as I will get to the firmness of Roland cones. So, Ive bought 3 sanding blocks to experiment with. My question is...whats the best way to remove the actual sand paper outer layer in orser to get to the foam in the middle? I obviously dont want to damage the foam underneath. It seems the sand paper coating is glued to the foam. Thanks for any tips in advance. Kenny
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Sanding block cones
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Thanks yardbird. Hmmmm...im not sure if thats going to work with the sanding blocks. I wonder if I could rub two sanding blocks together to make them smooth and cut then into cylinders. The sand paper surface would at least be smooth but I have no idea what effect it would have on the triggering.
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I'd assume you will cut them into basic shapes and then adhere multiples pieces together to make your final cylinder or cone shape. Once you cut the basic shapes you can easily use a razor blade to cut the sandpaper free from the foam. Kinda like peeling an apple can be a little easier once it has been cut into wedges.Roland TD12 module / DIY Kit in progress, Gretsch Blackhawk A (soon to be E) kit.
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there are a couple of different foam blocks in the UK one peels of easily the other has to be sliced off with a Stanley knife . the ones that peel off have the best foam for triggers but I found it to wear pretty quick especially on snares so I stopped using it a long time ago. I found a foam aerobic mat from Decathlon to be perfect and use that all the time now with great results...
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Originally posted by KennyinDundee View PostI was thinking about using a hole cutter attachment for my drill to cut out the cylinders. Think this might work? Anybody done used this cutting method?
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I cut mine into blocks, then use a ban saw to cut off the sanding surface, or it would be easier to remove the sanding surface after you cut the foam into the smaller piece rather than trying to remove it from the larger block of foam first.
I as also able to use this method to form the blocks into a cone shape. http://www.edrums.info/foam_cone.htm
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Originally posted by mikejl46 View Post
I as also able to use this method to form the blocks into a cone shape. http://www.edrums.info/foam_cone.htmMine didn't want to let go of the material, was pretty firm stuff.
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Remo Practice set conversion, DIY cymbals, PD-7's & PD-9's, CY-5, Sonor Hi-Hat stand, Roland TD-6V, Zoom RT-123, CB700 snare, Simmons SDMP1 Tunes: https://soundcloud.com/artly-there
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Originally posted by KennyinDundee View PostI was thinking about using a hole cutter attachment for my drill to cut out the cylinders. Think this might work? Anybody done used this cutting method?Module: Yamaha DTX500 - Thank you Santa Claus!
Kit: Pearl Rhythm Traveler conversion (in process)
My Rhythm Traveler Build
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I cut into blocks first. Xacto knife to start it off, then just peeled off with my fingers. Used the described on edrums. Worked great.
I thought I give it try in order to determine if the DIY trigger works any better than my ddrum Pro and Pintech stick on triggers. I'm using a TD-3, and seems like the kick just doesn;t have the pop or drive. Yes, if I boost the volume up, the bass sound better, but all other sound sources are also loud.
Bottom line is all 3 triggers produce the some tone. Wondering if the sounds for the kick on the TD-3 are the reason?
Going to try the cross brace and move the trigger closer to the to the beater (slightly above the strike zone) next to experiment.You do not have permission to view this gallery.
This gallery has 3 photos.Yamaha Absolute Birch;Yamaha Oak Custom
Paiste Cymbals; Zildjian Hybrid Cymbals
DIY vdrums
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