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Make Roland Hi Hat Controllers Work with Yamaha Modules!

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  • Make Roland Hi Hat Controllers Work with Yamaha Modules!

    Hey guys,
    After an accidental discovery whilst testing a DIY hi hat controller, I had an idea of how a Roland style hi-hat controller could be used with a Yamaha module. (I promise you that this isn't a late April fools either!).

    I tested this in a local music store (Professional Music Technology) with both DTX500 (which is a rehashed DTXpress IV) and a DTX400 modules, and FD8, VH-11 and Alesis Realhat hi hat controllers. (I don't think it would work with a VH-12/13 because they use a different resistance range as far as I know) and got full open-closed with everything in between, as well as foot chick and splash!

    To my knowledge, this should work with any Roland style hi hat controller with a resistance range of around 0-20/25 k ohms.

    The best bit is, this requires absolutely no soldering or additional components!

    To do this, you just use a STEREO cable from the controller to the module, BUT! When you connect it to the module, don't insert it all the way; leave about 4mm or so.
    Here's a pic of what I mean:
    DSC_0339.jpg

    I have absolutely no idea about how or why this works, but it does. Currently, I'm using a momentary switch style controller (came with my old Ion kit) with my DTX500 module.

    Really hope this is of help to someone, and if someone could explaint why this works, that'd be great!
    My kit: Yamaha DTX500, Yamaha RHH135, Yamaha PCY135, Yamaha PCY150s, Alesis DMPad 14" Ride, Alesis 8" Realhead mesh converted, two DIY 13" mesh pads with Ddrum Red Shot triggers, Yamaha KP65, mounted on an Ion Pro Session rack.
    Bands:
    A Dying God: https://www.facebook.com/pages/A-Dyi...06965945988018
    Morvidus: https://www.facebook.com/MorvidusBlackMetal
    My Soundcloud: https://soundcloud.com/nattye
    My YouTube page: http://www.youtube.com/user/WhingyTeen

  • #2
    As I recall, if you press your foot on the hi-hat pedal when turning on a Yamaha module it reverses it's operation. This would compensate for the fact that the Roland pedals work the opposite way round to the Yamaha.

    The Yamaha uses the ring on a stereo connector and by partly inserting the connector you will be connecting to that, or maybe shorting the tip & ring. It would be easier to find out what is happening if you use a re-wirable plug and connect the tip from the pedal to the ring of the module connector, although as far as I remember the main connection is through the tip but you will not get all sounds if the ring is floating. I seem to recall that putting a fixed resistor from the ring to the sleeve fixes that.

    Keith
    Keith Raper
    http://www.dtxpander.co.uk
    http://www.kdel.co.uk

    Comment


    • #3
      Unless one already has a VH-11 and looking to switch to a Yamaha module ...

      I don't see many people who would fork out VH-11's $420 for an item that you have to insert only half way in, compared to the RHH-135 at $300 that works just as advertised.
      DTX700, A2E Dixon kit, Yamaha cymbals, FSR HH
      Kit Pix http://vdrums.com/forum/album.php?albumid=613

      My new venture, HiEnd Speakers. : voglosounds.com

      Comment


      • #4
        Originally posted by perceval View Post
        Unless one already has a VH-11 and looking to switch to a Yamaha module ...

        I don't see many people who would fork out VH-11's $420 for an item that you have to insert only half way in, compared to the RHH-135 at $300 that works just as advertised.
        It would be good for someone swapping, but it means also that controllers such as the Pintech RYC (think that's it's name) and Hart E-Pedal should, in theory also work. Basically, it means that there are a wider selection of controllers available.

        Also, if something like the Hart Epedal or Pintech one does work, it means a 2 piece hi hat can be used, which should somewhat improve the aesthetics of the kit.
        My kit: Yamaha DTX500, Yamaha RHH135, Yamaha PCY135, Yamaha PCY150s, Alesis DMPad 14" Ride, Alesis 8" Realhead mesh converted, two DIY 13" mesh pads with Ddrum Red Shot triggers, Yamaha KP65, mounted on an Ion Pro Session rack.
        Bands:
        A Dying God: https://www.facebook.com/pages/A-Dyi...06965945988018
        Morvidus: https://www.facebook.com/MorvidusBlackMetal
        My Soundcloud: https://soundcloud.com/nattye
        My YouTube page: http://www.youtube.com/user/WhingyTeen

        Comment


        • #5
          Originally posted by SilentSeraph View Post
          Hey guys,
          After an accidental discovery whilst testing a DIY hi hat controller, I had an idea of how a Roland style hi-hat controller could be used with a Yamaha module. (I promise you that this isn't a late April fools either!).

          .....

          To do this, you just use a STEREO cable from the controller to the module, BUT! When you connect it to the module, don't insert it all the way; leave about 4mm or so.
          Here's a pic of what I mean:
          [ATTACH]25547[/ATTACH]

          I have absolutely no idea about how or why this works, but it does. Currently, I'm using a momentary switch style controller (came with my old Ion kit) with my DTX500 module.

          Really hope this is of help to someone, and if someone could explaint why this works, that'd be great!
          Thanks for the tip Seraph, Tried this out too with my Ion Pedal switch and it works.. mostly.... I do get the Open and Close consistently, and occasionally get the splash and chik, maybe it's my technique on those, or the other mods I did to incorporate the switch into a 'moving' hat set...
          As far as I can tell, your 4mm trick basically causes the electrical signals to follow the proper path that Yamaha requires.... I believe Roland Modules use the Tip and Sleeve inside the module for the hi-hat actuation.... However Yamaha appears to use the Ring and Sleeve. Your little trick makes the Tip of the plug on the cable make contact with the Ring contact inside the module. The sleeve contacts like it's supposed to due to its length. Another alternative to this trick is to wire up what you might call a stereo flip cable... wire one end "normally" and on the other end flip the connections for the tip and ring. Does the same thing as your trick but doesn't require the finesse of finding the sweet spot of how far to push the plug in.
          Module: Yamaha DTX500 - Thank you Santa Claus!
          Kit: Pearl Rhythm Traveler conversion (in process)

          My Rhythm Traveler Build

          Comment


          • #6
            No problem! Thanks for the explanation of why it works, I've been trying to understand why xD
            I've always got perfect open and close with my Ion pedal, but a the chock and splash sounds are... Rather sporadic.
            A flip cable sounds like a clever idea though, didn't know such things existed!
            My kit: Yamaha DTX500, Yamaha RHH135, Yamaha PCY135, Yamaha PCY150s, Alesis DMPad 14" Ride, Alesis 8" Realhead mesh converted, two DIY 13" mesh pads with Ddrum Red Shot triggers, Yamaha KP65, mounted on an Ion Pro Session rack.
            Bands:
            A Dying God: https://www.facebook.com/pages/A-Dyi...06965945988018
            Morvidus: https://www.facebook.com/MorvidusBlackMetal
            My Soundcloud: https://soundcloud.com/nattye
            My YouTube page: http://www.youtube.com/user/WhingyTeen

            Comment


            • #7
              I'm not aware of where you can actually purchase said cable, I only know of it DIY-like
              Module: Yamaha DTX500 - Thank you Santa Claus!
              Kit: Pearl Rhythm Traveler conversion (in process)

              My Rhythm Traveler Build

              Comment


              • #8
                Originally posted by SilentSeraph View Post
                Hey guys,
                After an accidental discovery whilst testing a DIY hi hat controller, I had an idea of how a Roland style hi-hat controller could be used with a Yamaha module. (I promise you that this isn't a late April fools either!).

                I tested this in a local music store (Professional Music Technology) with both DTX500 (which is a rehashed DTXpress IV) and a DTX400 modules, and FD8, VH-11 and Alesis Realhat hi hat controllers. (I don't think it would work with a VH-12/13 because they use a different resistance range as far as I know) and got full open-closed with everything in between, as well as foot chick and splash!

                To my knowledge, this should work with any Roland style hi hat controller with a resistance range of around 0-20/25 k ohms.

                The best bit is, this requires absolutely no soldering or additional components!

                To do this, you just use a STEREO cable from the controller to the module, BUT! When you connect it to the module, don't insert it all the way; leave about 4mm or so.
                Here's a pic of what I mean:
                [ATTACH]25547[/ATTACH]

                I have absolutely no idea about how or why this works, but it does. Currently, I'm using a momentary switch style controller (came with my old Ion kit) with my DTX500 module.

                Really hope this is of help to someone, and if someone could explaint why this works, that'd be great!
                Hello

                Maybe you can help me as this is driving me crazy lol
                recently i bought a Simmons SD7 Module and a Yamaha DTX 2.0

                i Prefer the Yamaha but use the Simmons for extra inputs now only.

                Anyways Using an old Alesis High Hat controller Pedal,The Trick with the plug partially in works in the simmons Module


                With all that set aside lets talk about my Yamaha DTX2.0.
                i only hear a High Hat close sounds when i insert the plug partially but as i step on pedal nothign happens.

                One night it worked for a while till i accidentally moved the plug.Then i was unable to get it to work again.

                Then i tried and made a switch with two wires form the stereo cable and i attached it to my Ludwig Clutch.
                and that seemed to work as i had two metal washers come into contact when the clutch went up and down.
                But the time seemed off when i release my foot as i hit the High Hat with Drum Stick
                it did not respond right away unless i hit the High hat again a second later.only as i release my foot that very second

                Which brings me back the desire to do your method or something similar that will work without taking my DTX2.0 apart.
                I wish to Use the parts form my Alesis Pedal under my Ludwig High Hat Pedal which feels more realistic but please help me find out why this trick you mention shows up as pedal down for a second on the screen then its gone.

                i heard that with the Module i use DTX 2.0 sometimes you have to Turn it off and then on or do a recall?
                and why is it i got it working only once and not again.it seems so hard to get working and it is funny how i can get it to work within seconds on the Simmons Module with the plug partially in.

                Please help me even with some New Wiring Diagram for the Stereo Plug i am using

                Also if i get an FC7 Switch pedal do they have a variable control?

                i have an old Xbox 360 Steering wheel with foot accelerator ,Breaks and wondered it
                that has a variable pot under the pedal i can use.

                Thanks a Bunch

                Comment


                • #9
                  Thank you SilentSeraph, works the other way around too.

                  I previously owned a DTX500 drum kit, which I sold most parts of and replaced the drum head with a pearl redbox, which is actually a red Alesis DM10 (Roland compatible). Long story short, I haven't sold my HH controller yet, yamaha HH65, incompatible with my redbox. I was seeking for a replacement until I read your post. Reversing the ring and tip on the stereo connector makes it compatible ! thanks again !

                  AJOMusic
                  Last edited by ajomusic; 11-03-15, 07:12 AM.

                  Comment

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