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  • "Realistic" Hi Hat idea,

    Hi all
    I'm new to the DIY v Drums world so I'm really just dipping my toes into the water so to speak.

    My current setup is a Roland TD-3, Roland CY 8 Hi Hat pad with a Jobeky Hi Hat controller (that doesn't seem to work properly) mounted
    on a standard Hi-Hat stand, CY 8 Cymbals and Jobeky Snare and Toms and the original Roland Kick KD-8.
    I'm getting fed up with my TD-3, it is expanded to the max and I have recently lost the rim functionality of two of the stereo inputs
    I hope to upgrade the module in the new year to either a Megadrum or a TD 10 or 12 depending on if there are any bargains out there.

    My goal is to try to get a V-Drum setup that is as close as possible spatialy and in terms of feel while being as quiet as possible.

    Right now apart from the module issue my Hi hat setup is bothering me. I find myself leaning to one side to reach it as I have a
    double bass pedal setup and so I can't move the small Hi Hat pad/stand any closer to the snare with this current setup.

    So here is what I'm thinking as an upgrade solution;
    I've been looking at the Hall Effect sensor attached below the hi hat pedal as a very elegant solution to the hi hat controller.
    (viewtopic.php?f=3&t=1676&start=10)

    I was thinking to get a 14" plastic practice cymbal as the lower hi hat cymbal and mounting a Yamaha PCY 155 cymbal above it.
    I know there is a size mismatch there but I can't seem to find a 15" plastic cymbal for the base but I don't think it should be an issue.
    So the 15" is a bit bigger than what most people use but I'm trying to minimize the distance from the snare for the reason I mentioned.

    If what i'm suggesting works right I'm thinking it will move and feel much closer to a real hi hat pair of cymbals.
    Also it would be a nice feature to be able to play the hi hat bell too.

    Can any experieced guys on the forum weigh in as to if there is a problem with what I'm suggesting, that It might not work
    the way I'm imagining it or if I'm missing something that might cause a problem.

    Not sure if my TD-3 would be compatible with this type of controller but If I get a new module later that won't be an issue anymore.

    C

  • #2
    Hall effect hihat won`t work on TD3, but works brilliantly on Megadrum.
    I used to have a TD3 and now I`m on MD (with hall effect hh controller) ...


    Comment


    • #3
      Well, there you go.
      If you decide going the Megadrum way, seems like a plan!

      If you figure you want to stick with Roland, check out the FSR thread (Easy to make DIY Hi-Hats), nothing simpler and bomb-proof design.
      http://vdrums.com/forum/showthread.p...Hat-controller
      DTX700, A2E Dixon kit, Yamaha cymbals, FSR HH
      Kit Pix http://vdrums.com/forum/album.php?albumid=613

      My new venture, HiEnd Speakers. : voglosounds.com

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      • #4
        Originally posted by ctasker View Post
        ...and I have recently lost the rim functionality of two of the stereo inputs
        Did you try different cables on those input just to make sure the cables are not the problem? (And also try the pads/cymbals connected to those input on different inputs)

        Comment


        • #5
          Hey. Any pics of your controller?
          When you say it won't work with the TD-3 does that mean you won't get the full articulation or does that mean it wont wort At All!
          i.e. not even with a simple open or closed level of control.

          Comment


          • #6
            Originally posted by TriggerThis View Post
            Did you try different cables on those input just to make sure the cables are not the problem? (And also try the pads/cymbals connected to those input on different inputs)
            Yeah, tried the various permutations. I thought it was the pad that was the problem so the first thing i did was try swapping around for the other cymbal to see if it was a module issue or the pad. The working pad stopped triggering on the edge when I swapped. Tried swapping cables too just in case that was the issue but made no difference. It seems to be an internal problem. The ridge led on the brain will not flash when you hit the edge running into on that input. Same with the Snare rim unfortuantely

            Comment


            • #7
              Originally posted by perceval View Post
              Well, there you go.
              If you decide going the Megadrum way, seems like a plan!

              If you figure you want to stick with Roland, check out the FSR thread (Easy to make DIY Hi-Hats), nothing simpler and bomb-proof design.
              http://vdrums.com/forum/showthread.p...Hat-controller
              Thanks for the link, my first reaction to FSR was, A What? Haven't looked into that type of controller before. Will have a look through it when I have a bit more time.

              Comment


              • #8
                That's kind of odd that 2 rim inputs on the module would suddenly stop working... you have the right kind of pad selected in the trigger setting of the module? All rubber pads and cymbals that comes with the TD-3 are dual zone rim switch, but the mesh head pads are not, they are dual zone piezo, so you have to make sure that you select the right kind of pad for each input before trying different pad on different inputs (for the snare input anyway)...

                Comment


                • #9
                  Originally posted by TriggerThis View Post
                  That's kind of odd that 2 rim inputs on the module would suddenly stop working... you have the right kind of pad selected in the trigger setting of the module? All rubber pads and cymbals that comes with the TD-3 are dual zone rim switch, but the mesh head pads are not, they are dual zone piezo, so you have to make sure that you select the right kind of pad for each input before trying different pad on different inputs (for the snare input anyway)...
                  I'm pretty sure the TD-3 does not support rims sounds on the tom inputs at all(especially mesh...piezo/piezo)....but I could be wrong.
                  8 piece DIY Acrylic, 2x2Box DrumIt5, Gen16 4xDCP, DIY Acrylic&Gen16 Conversions, Sleishman Twin-QuadSteele hybrid, Gibraltar&DrumFrame rack, DW9502LB, Midi Knights Pro Lighting
                  http://www.airbrushartists.org/DreamscapeAirbrushRealm

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    Originally posted by ctasker View Post
                    When you say it won't work with the TD-3 does that mean you won't get the full articulation or does that mean it wont wort At All!
                    i.e. not even with a simple open or closed level of control.
                    It won`t work at all.

                    Originally posted by ctasker View Post
                    Hey. Any pics of your controller?
                    Sure. I just changed it a bit, as I changed my hihat stand ...





                    Attached Files


                    Comment


                    • #11
                      Originally posted by fulrmr(Daniel) View Post
                      I'm pretty sure the TD-3 does not support rims sounds on the tom inputs at all(especially mesh...piezo/piezo)....but I could be wrong.
                      You are correct. Only the snare input and the cymbal inputs are stereo/dual zone. I couldn't tell you the specifics of the electronics of it but the tom inputs are mono.
                      Kind of strange that the original kit came with dual zone rubber pads but the module only supported single zone toms. Was really annoyed when I found that out after I bought the thing.
                      You think you have your research done but there is always something that gets overlooked I guess

                      Anyway It doesn't enter into my issue with the non rim triggering as I was not testing the cymbal in a tom input I just swapped from one stereo cymbal input to another and swapped cables after.

                      Comment


                      • #12
                        Originally posted by TriggerThis View Post
                        That's kind of odd that 2 rim inputs on the module would suddenly stop working... you have the right kind of pad selected in the trigger setting of the module? All rubber pads and cymbals that comes with the TD-3 are dual zone rim switch, but the mesh head pads are not, they are dual zone piezo, so you have to make sure that you select the right kind of pad for each input before trying different pad on different inputs (for the snare input anyway)...
                        I agree, it does seem odd. I have played around with those pad type settings before and I don't think that that is the issue but I will double check it later just to be sure.

                        Comment


                        • #13
                          Thanks for posting the pics.
                          So is that one cylindrical magnet with a hole in the centre fixed underneath the pad and the hall effect sensor is mounted somewhere inside that ruber squezed-in-the-middle thingamy?
                          Sorry don't know what most of these components are called.

                          Comment


                          • #14
                            I didn't mean to say that the TD-3 was capable of handling dual zone pads on all inputs. What I meant was that the PD-3 came with dual zone pads (PD-8) and might also include a mesh head pad for the snare in which case if you tried a PD-8 on the snare input it wouldn't work until you change the pad type in the settings and if you tried the pdx-8 (or other dual piezo) snare on a cymbal input it wouldn't work either... geezzz. tha's a whole lot of words just to say nothing, and I completely forgot about his jobkey snare and toms

                            Comment


                            • #15
                              Originally posted by ctasker View Post
                              Thanks for posting the pics.
                              So is that one cylindrical magnet with a hole in the centre fixed underneath the pad and the hall effect sensor is mounted somewhere inside that ruber squezed-in-the-middle thingamy?
                              Sorry don't know what most of these components are called.
                              That`s right. Very easy to make. Just connect the sensor to the jack (all 3 wires) and stick the magnet(s) to the clutch.


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