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Easy to make DIY HiHat controller

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  • Aka Wayne
    replied
    Thatís what I was thinking. Iím already using a pretty soft sponge you use for caulking. I might try a shorter plunger too. It may be too close to bottoming out.

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  • Sylv1co
    replied
    Originally posted by Aka Wayne View Post
    Thanks bud! My travel from 0 to 127 is around 2 cm Iíd say. If I change the hardness of my foam should I go softer or harder?
    I would say softer. With harder foam, it will be worse

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  • Aka Wayne
    replied
    Thanks bud! My travel from 0 to 127 is around 2 cm Iíd say. If I change the hardness of my foam should I go softer or harder?

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  • Sylv1co
    replied
    Originally posted by Aka Wayne View Post
    Follow up question. If youíve read my previous post you know Iím running an FSR based controller in between my hi hat without any resistors. My trigger settings are currently set to VH11. Everything works great except one thing.
    If everything works great I assumed that the range from CC0 to CC127 is wide enough. It should be about 2cm or a bit less. If it's too short, it could explain why you get full velocity chick even with slow action on the pedal.

    A 20k resistor in parallel could help, but to know what really happen you should monitor your midi data. You'll see that your module trigger the chick note when CC reach the value of 90 (at least on a Roland module).
    You may have to change the hardness of the material that press the FSR (foam or spring) to get better result.

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  • Aka Wayne
    replied
    Follow up question. If youíve read my previous post you know Iím running an FSR based controller in between my hi hat without any resistors. My trigger settings are currently set to VH11. Everything works great except one thing.

    When i step down down on the hi hat pedal I get a velocity of 127 every time unless I step down very slow and lightly. As a result the foot chick is louder than it should be. Almost like a hot spot on the hi hat pedal. My threshold is 0 and sensitivity is about 9. Iíve experimented with settings and nothing seems to work. Could it be because I donít have the resistors to put the FSR in the resistance range of a vh11? Any other thoughts or advice would be appreciated!

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  • Aka Wayne
    replied
    No I havenít but if you want my files pm me and Iíll send them to you.

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  • angr77
    replied
    Originally posted by Aka Wayne View Post
    And yes it is 3D printed. I also 3D printed my cymbal triggers in the other thread. I'm liking the results.
    Hi!

    Nice design! Did you by chance share your 3D design of the FSR pedal control somewhere?

    Best regards

    Anders / www.zourman.com

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  • 'lectric drumma
    replied
    Originally posted by Sylv1co View Post
    I like to see this FSR with a hole inside, it's the best fsr design for me. Actuate the FSR with the clutch is the way to get the best result, and you can change the space between the 2 cymbals without changin the Hihat behavior. With the FSR under the pedal, you can't.
    But with the FSR under the pedal, you can use a pedal like e.g. the FD-7, without needing a hi-hat stand, right?

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  • Sylv1co
    replied
    Hmmmm I swear when I push real hard I hear the extra to tight sound. I even checked the sound by setting cc to 127 to hear the extra tight articulation and it sounds the same as when I push extra hard on the pedal.
    You can hear the extra tight sound if you set your HH type to VH-12, then pedal down should easely give you the full pressure and then hit the pad to hear this sound. Is it what you already done ?

    So sylv1co, can you explain how the resistors affect the playing behavior of the hi hat? And yes it is 3D printed. I also 3D printed my cymbal triggers in the other thread. I'm liking the results.
    The 20k in parallel is optional, as you said before, it's here to put the FSR in the good range of resistance. Better is to place a variable resistor, it lets you set the hh range.
    The 5k or 10k in serie is emulate the VH-12 since this hh dont go down under 5k or 10k when it is full pressed. Without this resistor, you reach the full pressure to early.
    Last edited by Sylv1co; 03-19-19, 01:34 AM.

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  • Aka Wayne
    replied
    Hmmmm I swear when I push real hard I hear the extra to tight sound. I even checked the sound by setting cc to 127 to hear the extra tight articulation and it sounds the same as when I push extra hard on the pedal.

    So sylv1co, can you explain how the resistors affect the playing behavior of the hi hat? And yes it is 3D printed. I also 3D printed my cymbal triggers in the other thread. I'm liking the results.

    Leave a comment:


  • Sylv1co
    replied
    Very nice, indeed. Did you use a 3D printer ? DIY seems to take another meaning those days...

    I like to see this FSR with a hole inside, it's the best fsr design for me. Actuate the FSR with the clutch is the way to get the best result, and you can change the space between the 2 cymbals without changin the Hihat behavior. With the FSR under the pedal, you can't.

    I'm using no resistor and set to vh11. I even get the extra tight sound using a td12.
    If you set the trigger type to VH-11, the TD-12 module don't let you access to the extra tight sound, it's only possible when it is set to VH-12.

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  • 'lectric drumma
    replied
    Nice!

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  • Aka Wayne
    replied
    Here's my latest fsr hi hat controller. I originally built an under the pedal controller. It worked fine but wasn't responsive enough for me. I had to open way before to get a good splash sound and the foot splash was impossible. This new design is totally stealth and I believe since it is directly impacted by the clutch is much more responsive. I mangled the fsr a bit as you can see while drilling the hole but it seems fine. It is just like a real hi hat now. I'm using no resistor and set to vh11. I even get the extra tight sound using a td12. I couldn't be happier with this really.

    By the way. I understand that the point of the parallel resistor is to bring the range down to 20k but how does. This impact play with and without the resistor. If I could improve the functionality even more with a resistor I will add one!

    image.jpegimage.jpegimage.jpeg
    Attached Files

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  • JmanWord
    replied
    The thing is the extra tight transition is meant to be accessed by pressing HARD on the pedal. And that is how it works with the VH-12 VH-13, it is the reason there is a bottom platform that is cymbal like that gives you the base to compress with the extra tight push .... So this is easily achievable with a HH stand/pedal combination like the Hart or the one I build. When you close the pedal you set the top cymbal/clutch in a position where you only get the extra tight sound by putting additional pressure on the pedal, so you are actually squeezing the 2 cymbals tighter to achieve extra tight. By using the pedal alone like you are doing you would need to do some kind of physical mod so that you have to press harder to get the extra tight sound .... sorry, I'll have to bow out now ..... can't spend more time on this .... hope it helps. J

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  • 'lectric drumma
    replied
    Originally posted by JmanWord View Post

    But before you even bother with that as I mentioned before you should be able to get the Extra tight transition with your pedal by setting the CCMAX to 127 instead of 90. I did that with the FD7 on the TD20 and got the extra tight transition. Try it ....
    Thanks, that works! BTW, what pad would be best in the module for the hi-hat? Not the VH-12 since I don't see the CCMAX-settings then. Currently, the CY-5 is selected as hi-hat pad, is that the best option? Or would VH-11 be better suited?

    Am I right if I understand it like this:
    • VH-11/CY-5 setting in combination with CCMAX to 127: gives the extra tight position sound when the hi-hat pedal is pushed into the normal closed position. For the "normal" closed position sound you need to open the pedal a bit. So this is in fact the reverse of an acoustic hi-hat, instead of pressing harder to get the extra tight position sound, you release pressure to get the "normal" closed position sound;
    • using the adapter lets you select the VH-12 pad in the module, without physically playing the VH-12 hi-hat. The end result is exactly the same as the above bullet-point;
    • using an FSR would allow to use a non-VH-12 hi-hat pedal, like an FD-7, Epedal II,... and get the playing feel of a physical VH-12/acoustic hi-hat, where you have a normal closed hi-hat sound when the hi-hat pedal is physically in a normal closed position, and you get an extra tight hi-hat sound when you physically press harder on the pedal.
    Thanks!


    Stijn

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