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Easy to make DIY HiHat controller

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  • #46
    Originally posted by rwsartist View Post
    Do you think this will work with a Roland TD-6? I just finished 2 single zone chokable cymbals and dual zone ride. Now I need my hi- hats and a controller.
    Yes, it should work. As I said above, I recommend to put a 20k resistor in parallel with the FSR, it was useless on TD-10 but it may help on another module.

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    • #47
      Originally posted by SilentSeraph View Post
      I had my hi hat stand arrive today, and am going to put it under the pedal, but use a thinner bit of foam. I tested it earlier and it works surprisingly well!
      Great ! very happy to see another yamaha user using this fsr.

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      • #48
        Today I've built my hihat controller, it isn't pretty but works flawlessly!





        This last one is here just to show how it goes under the cymbal and its an old version without the foam on top of the FSR. Sure it isn't pretty but didnt really cared about it since it is hidden underneath the cymbal.

        Thanks Sylv1co for the great information you shared here that made me capable of building this!
        Making my way into diy edrums and failing to resist GAS!
        Kit: Alesis Trigger IO + DIY Acrilic Cymbals + FSR Hihat Controller
        Kit Pics here!

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        • #49
          Great ! on which module do you use it ?

          EDIT : after re-reading of your post on this thread, I assumed it works on your Trigger IO, is it right ?

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          • #50
            Here is my almost hidden CTRL and cymbal with Tama RoadPro hihat stand, it is just a LDR attahced to end of hihat stick, inside a rubber tube with a light and special hole, to make it analog. Chick, closed, open + some variations. Module is Alesis Trigger I/O. Hit does not affect to hihat position message. Turning of cymbal is eliminated by using two rubber pads, instead of felt rings as usual in hihat holder. Bottom cymbal can be used, but not necessary. Free movement is 9-12mm. Uses USB power for light. LDR does not require nothing more than glue, cable and instrument plug. Next is to build all inside a hihat stand, including the light source (just need some LED to buy), however this is quite nonbreakable solution already Some clever plastic tubing at middle of stand tube perhaps...

            2013-01-12-2351.jpg
            2013-01-12-2353.jpg
            Tama Artstar Cordia kit A and E.
            A: 24",14",15",16"
            E: 18",13",14"
            Waiting 10", 12" bubinga...

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            • #51
              Originally posted by alfthan View Post
              Hit does not affect to hihat position message.
              That's were Chuckytuh's realisation maybe has to be improved (he will tell us). When the FSR is under the pedal, there's no porblem, but when it is under the top cymbal, it needs to be pressed by the clutch and not by the cymbal itself or you may trigger some foot chicks by hitting strong the cymbal, or you just have some open sounds that are muted without pressing the pedal.
              To avoid it, you can make a hole into the FSR like me to put it straight under the clutch or you can copy (and maybe improve) the system shown in message #24 on this thread.


              Alfthan, the FSR is great cause it does not requieres power and it's really easy to set. Your HH looks great but it seems to be more complicated to achieve.

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              • #52
                I am just concerned about FSR lifecycle, is there a limit for the material how much 2mm vibration it can take (in months, with lot of foot chicks)? It seems relatively easy to build. I could do one as well, but not to the under the cymbal, more likely just bolted to footboard or under it. Have to check how much these cost here in Finland from web store...

                As LDR cost only 60cents, it is relatively cheap. It just generated from the junk I found and wanted to test light as analog source. Previous light was just a table light near by,,, then I had to take kit to some rehearse room and that solution needed permanent light

                Originally posted by Sylv1co View Post
                That's were Chuckytuh's realisation maybe has to be improved (he will tell us). When the FSR is under the pedal, there's no porblem, but when it is under the top cymbal, it needs to be pressed by the clutch and not by the cymbal itself or you may trigger some foot chicks by hitting strong the cymbal, or you just have some open sounds that are muted without pressing the pedal.
                To avoid it, you can make a hole into the FSR like me to put it straight under the clutch or you can copy (and maybe improve) the system shown in message #24 on this thread.


                Alfthan, the FSR is great cause it does not requieres power and it's really easy to set. Your HH looks great but it seems to be more complicated to achieve.
                Tama Artstar Cordia kit A and E.
                A: 24",14",15",16"
                E: 18",13",14"
                Waiting 10", 12" bubinga...

                Comment


                • #53
                  but not to the under the cymbal
                  Me, that's were I prefer to have mine, this way I can set the height of the top cymbal without changing the behaviour of the HH controller

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                  • #54
                    I need to setup some sort of video, showing how this one works.

                    Originally posted by Sylv1co View Post
                    Me, that's were I prefer to have mine, this way I can set the height of the top cymbal without changing the behaviour of the HH controller
                    Tama Artstar Cordia kit A and E.
                    A: 24",14",15",16"
                    E: 18",13",14"
                    Waiting 10", 12" bubinga...

                    Comment


                    • #55
                      Originally posted by Sylv1co View Post
                      Great ! on which module do you use it ?

                      EDIT : after re-reading of your post on this thread, I assumed it works on your Trigger IO, is it right ?
                      Yes, I'm sorry, I should have mentioned it! I'm using the Trigger IO!

                      As far as the hit on the cymbal triggering a foot chick, it isnt happening but I have to "gently" lay the cymbal on top of the foam, it barely touches it and I can even smack the hell out of the cymbal, the max I had was some 11 CC value on the FSR.

                      Do any of you use Addictive Drums? I have no clue if I can make this work with it so that I can have more than open / close / foot chick sounds...

                      Edit: Just read the rest of the post.
                      Last edited by Chuckytuh; 01-16-13, 05:49 AM.
                      Making my way into diy edrums and failing to resist GAS!
                      Kit: Alesis Trigger IO + DIY Acrilic Cymbals + FSR Hihat Controller
                      Kit Pics here!

                      Comment


                      • #56
                        Hello, this is my first post. I have been working on my fsr controller. I am using the trigger io into sd2. I decided to go with the one version on this post the french guy or something. Anywho, i got everything working just wired up to a mono plug; my problem is Im having sensitivity issues. I do the calibration and have it set to 15 on the trigger io; the fsr is too dang sensitive i can barely touch it and its full, but not 127 only get about 110 or so on 15 calibration setting. Like i said it works but cant get the tight articulation. Also if you are really working the pedal up and down and playing ill get a loud hi hat sound randomly. I have all midi notes cleared on sd2 except for the drums in use. Do you think its fsr causing the loud hi hat sound or something else and should i maybe wire in a resistor to counter the sensitivity?

                        Thanks let me know

                        Heres some pics to give you an idea what im working with

                        IMG_20130127_133020.jpgIMG_20130127_133110.jpg
                        Last edited by circlecr; 01-27-13, 02:34 PM. Reason: pics

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                        • #57
                          Hi,

                          not so easy to give you immediatly an answer.
                          First, you should try to set the HH calibration to different values. MidiOx is your friend since it has a good midi monitor, it's better to see the real midi messages than to hear the sound behaviour of S2.
                          I have had a trigger IO few years ago, and I've got some problem of midi transmission because of electromagnetic disturbance, you can try to disable your wifi during your tests, or even turn off every other electrical appliance arround your Trigger IO and your computer. Not so many chance that it could be of help, but at least, you can eliminate this source of problem.

                          If you have a meter, begin by testing the FSR itself, it should give you a resistance of about 2mOhms with a very light touch, to about 0,5K if you press it strong.

                          If Chuckytuh (who use a trigger IO) can give us his HH calibration setting, and better, if he could confirm that he's able to reach 127 for the midi CC04 message, it should be of help.

                          Comment


                          • #58
                            ok i have midiox is hard to understand the values for me i think its like hex or something and maybe im looking at it wrong. The way i figured out is by messing with calibration and setting up a midi node on sd2 in my adventure to get a foot chik working lol actually did have it working but wasnt doing the job. Now i could get more out of fsr by lowering calibration but open is sacrificed; I kept moving the foot chik higher in midi node and got up to like 125 on 0 calibration

                            Now, about interference i have wifi off and the trigger io is under my tv/monitor and next to my lexicon omega; that may be the problem will try moving it and see what happens.

                            Thanks for replying tho

                            Comment


                            • #59
                              ok i have midiox is hard to understand the values for me i think its like hex
                              You're right, you have to disable hex display for input and output ( option / data display)

                              The way i figured out is by messing with calibration and setting up a midi node on sd2 in my adventure to get a foot chik working lol actually did have it working but wasnt doing the job. Now i could get more out of fsr by lowering calibration but open is sacrificed; I kept moving the foot chik higher in midi node and got up to like 125 on 0 calibration
                              I don't really understand wath the midi node function of S2 is usefull for you... My advice is to let S2 for a moment and to work only with MidiOx,
                              foot chiks are triggered by the IO, so make sure you're able to trigger foot chiks with full velocity by pressing directly the FSR (meaning without foam). Make also sure that you get full range of CC04 still by pressing directly the FSR. If it's OK, all the rest is a meaning of foam density, foam thickness.

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                              • #60
                                Thanks for the midiox option i had lost hope with that until now. So what i am seeing is that i have to push with two fingers to get to 127 may need to spread out the pressure. I originally turned off the foot chik note so i turned it back on; it is turning on between 65 and 70 could not get that any higher even with calibration.

                                Any suggestions?

                                Also i have my magnetic reed switch from my rockband set should i try that maybe for the foot chik, let me know thanks

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