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Easy to make DIY HiHat controller

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  • JmanWord
    replied
    Originally posted by 'lectric drumma View Post

    Thanks for the information. Seems like a small DIY is coming up . And good to hear that the Epedal stand in the end used the same pedal as before, but attached to a stand. I'd prefer to have my hi-hat seperately from my hi-hat pedal, I have a double bass pedal, and not needing a hi-hat stand allows closer positioning of my actual hi-hat.

    Just to be clear though, if I want the pressure sensitivity on my TD-30, not only the adapter is needed, but the FSR is still needed as well, right?

    Thanks again - and a lot!


    Stijn
    No, the point is that adapter is what Hart used with the Epedal II stand and you could set it to VH12 and get the extra tight transition. So, assuming the pedal is similar without the stand that you have, you should be able to add that adapter, set the type to VH12 in the module and get the same extra tight transitions with your pedal. But before you even bother with that as I mentioned before you should be able to get the Extra tight transition with your pedal by setting the CCMAX to 127 instead of 90. I did that with the FD7 on the TD20 and got the extra tight transition. Try it ....

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  • 'lectric drumma
    replied
    Originally posted by JmanWord View Post

    I think they used the same pedal in the Epedal II HH stand build that you have. The stand is just a stand attached to a HH control pedal so the cymbal goes up and down with the control pedal. Like I mentioned earlier the Hart adapter is very simple. It just requires a 10Kohm resistor soldered into the Tip cable between the male and female jacks. So, it is just a male and female TS jack, stereo spkr wire, and 10K resistor. Tip wire with resistor wired to the tip connectors, Sleeve wired to the sleeve connectors. In my case I don't bother buying TS jacks anymore since TRS are about the same price. In these pics you can see TRS jack and plug, which works fine, you just don't connect anything to the Ring posts.
    Thanks for the information. Seems like a small DIY is coming up . And good to hear that the Epedal stand in the end used the same pedal as before, but attached to a stand. I'd prefer to have my hi-hat seperately from my hi-hat pedal, I have a double bass pedal, and not needing a hi-hat stand allows closer positioning of my actual hi-hat.

    Just to be clear though, if I want the pressure sensitivity on my TD-30, not only the adapter is needed, but the FSR is still needed as well, right?

    Thanks again - and a lot!


    Stijn

    Leave a comment:


  • JmanWord
    replied
    completeVH12 adapter complete mono cable with 10KOhm resistor at plug tip connection.jpg

    Leave a comment:


  • JmanWord
    replied
    VH12 cntrr adpt jack end.jpgother pics

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  • JmanWord
    replied
    Originally posted by 'lectric drumma View Post
    Sorry, my bad! I understood your "
    Epedal II HH stand/controller" as Epedal II HH stand OR controller.

    I think they used the same pedal in the Epedal II HH stand build that you have. The stand is just a stand attached to a HH control pedal so the cymbal goes up and down with the control pedal. Like I mentioned earlier the Hart adapter is very simple. It just requires a 10Kohm resistor soldered into the Tip cable between the male and female jacks. So, it is just a male and female TS jack, stereo spkr wire, and 10K resistor. Tip wire with resistor wired to the tip connectors, Sleeve wired to the sleeve connectors. In my case I don't bother buying TS jacks anymore since TRS are about the same price. In these pics you can see TRS jack and plug, which works fine, you just don't connect anything to the Ring posts.

    VH12 HH cntrl adpte 10KOhm resistor at tip connector of plug.jpg
    Last edited by JmanWord; 03-16-19, 04:58 PM.

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  • 'lectric drumma
    replied
    Sorry, my bad! I understood your "
    Epedal II HH stand/controller" as Epedal II HH stand OR controller.

    Leave a comment:


  • JmanWord
    replied
    Originally posted by 'lectric drumma View Post
    Do you know what that adapter looked like? I can't even remember ever having an adapter for my hi-hat pedal. To be sure we are absolutely speaking about the same pedal, the one I have is the one you see on the photo in this link: https://en.audiofanzine.com/hart-dynamics/.


    Stijn
    Like I said the Hart Epedal II Hi Hat Stand is the one that came with the adapter that was with the 6.4 kit: https://fr.audiofanzine.com/batterie...io-master-6-4/
    The attached PDF is everything that came with the Epedal II HH stand
    Attached Files
    Last edited by JmanWord; 03-16-19, 04:10 PM.

    Leave a comment:


  • 'lectric drumma
    replied
    Do you know what that adapter looked like? I can't even remember ever having an adapter for my hi-hat pedal. To be sure we are absolutely speaking about the same pedal, the one I have is the one you see on the photo in this link: https://en.audiofanzine.com/hart-dynamics/.


    Stijn

    Leave a comment:


  • JmanWord
    replied
    Originally posted by 'lectric drumma View Post

    it is the e-pedal without the stand that I have.

    Stijn
    It was the Epedal II HH stand/controller that included the VH12 adapter.

    Leave a comment:


  • 'lectric drumma
    replied
    Originally posted by JmanWord View Post

    It doesn't matter AFAIK which lead goes to tip and which to sleeve. I built an under the pedal prototype FSR controller over a year ago and have been using it with the Pearl Mimic Pro sound module for over a year with excellent results. No resistor is needed, and shouldn't be needed on Roland modules, but I don't currently have a Roland module to test it. I tested it on the 2Box Drumit 3 and it also worked.
    When you say you have the Hart Pro kit. If it has the Epedal II HH stand/controller an adapter is included with those (VH12 adapter) That gives the pedal the extra tight transition. If you don't have that adapter a simple adapter can be built. It is simply a TS cable with a 10Kohm resistor on the tip. That extends the range. You can also go into the MIDI settings in the TD-30 module and change the HH setting to CCMax (127 instead of 90) .... at least that works for the TD-20 ... making an FD pedal or VH-11 so you can get the Extra tight transition.
    Hi Jerry,

    Thanks for the info. As far as my hi-hat pedal is concerned, I got my Hart kit right after the TD-20 came out, so it is the e-pedal without the stand that I have. Unfortunately I can't find my manuals from Hart Dynamics anymore, but I still have all the bits and pieces that came with the kit I think, being a couple of drum keys and some splitter cables. Male going into 2 females, and female going into 2 males - never used them and I don't even think I can use them on my kit. Please correct me if I'm wrong, I now have e.g. one input on which I have just a single zone splash and one with a single zone china. I don't think I can use the provided splitters to have these 2 pads on one input (both are piezo-pads, no rim-switch pads). The hi-hat adapter you mention, what does that look like? I think those splitter cables is all I have...

    @ Sylv1co: I would try to emulate a VH-12 or VH-13, with the pressure sensing. What would be the use of emulating an FD-7 or an FD-8? If my memory serves me well, those are the same as the Hart Epedal II, no? My Hart-pedal lets me play open, closed, and everything inbetween, that's what FD-7 and FD-8 are capable of as well, no?

    I don't know electronics... I was asking about the resistors since I saw it mentionned in earlier posts. When you guys speak of resistors in parallel or in serie, what exactly do you mean? I remember from back in the schooldays "something" about parallel or in serie, but have no idea where to solder what… I'm handy enough to solder, I recently removed a thick jack from a cable and soldered a small one on the cable instead, but there I could see what the old situation was, so I just redid the same…

    Thanks in advance!


    Stijn

    Leave a comment:


  • JmanWord
    replied
    Originally posted by Sylv1co View Post
    Hi,
    On a Roland Module :
    If you try to use your FSR hihat to emulate a FD-7 or FD-8 you'll maybbe need no resistor.
    If you try to use your FSR hihat to emulate a VH-12 or VH-13, you need a 5k resistor in serie plus a parallel resistor of 20kohm. I made some mesurement few years ago to get exact values of the VH-12 resistor value, but I think it's lost now... I think 5k in serie is OK.
    If you try to use your FSR hihat to emulate a VH-11, you'll maybe need a 20kohm resistor in parallel... No guarantee without this resistor.
    I can't remember if I ever measured the resistance range with the FSR. I do have these though. Some are from other people since I didn't have all these controllers .... might have been from you years ago. And these ranges also vary some for the individual controller. Many have reported the VH-12 can vary greatly with age. And I know I have tested dif. FD-7 pedals that have varied a bit one to the next.
    Roland Hi Hat Controller Resistance Range
    FULL OPEN FULL CLOSED
    FD-7: 19.9 Kohm .029 Kohm
    VH-11 20.6 Kohm .008 Kohm
    VH-12 19 Kohm 10 Kohm (xtra tight) 14 Kohm (normal)
    VH-13 18.3 Kohm .6 Kohm (xtra tight) 4 Kohm (normal)

    Leave a comment:


  • Sylv1co
    replied
    Hi,
    On a Roland Module :
    If you try to use your FSR hihat to emulate a FD-7 or FD-8 you'll maybbe need no resistor.
    If you try to use your FSR hihat to emulate a VH-12 or VH-13, you need a 5k resistor in serie plus a parallel resistor of 20kohm. I made some mesurement few years ago to get exact values of the VH-12 resistor value, but I think it's lost now... I think 5k in serie is OK.
    If you try to use your FSR hihat to emulate a VH-11, you'll maybe need a 20kohm resistor in parallel... No guarantee without this resistor.

    Leave a comment:


  • JmanWord
    replied
    Am I correct when I understand this like in: if you have a Roland module, all you need is the FSR, no resistor is needed? In my case, I currently play a TD-30 module on an "old" Hart Dynamics Pro-kit, so I am thinking about "upgrading" my hi-hat, so I have the pressure sensitivity. I might want to change to a dual trigger hi-hat as well.

    In case I would try this… how do I now which wire of the FSR has to be wired to the tip, and which one to the sleeve?

    Thanks guys!


    Stijn
    It doesn't matter AFAIK which lead goes to tip and which to sleeve. I built an under the pedal prototype FSR controller over a year ago and have been using it with the Pearl Mimic Pro sound module for over a year with excellent results. No resistor is needed, and shouldn't be needed on Roland modules, but I don't currently have a Roland module to test it. I tested it on the 2Box Drumit 3 and it also worked.
    When you say you have the Hart Pro kit. If it has the Epedal II HH stand/controller an adapter is included with those (VH12 adapter) That gives the pedal the extra tight transition. If you don't have that adapter a simple adapter can be built. It is simply a TS cable with a 10Kohm resistor on the tip. That extends the range. You can also go into the MIDI settings in the TD-30 module and change the HH setting to CCMax (127 instead of 90) .... at least that works for the TD-20 ... making an FD pedal or VH-11 so you can get the Extra tight transition.





    100_2602 - Copy.jpg
    Last edited by JmanWord; 03-16-19, 01:05 PM.

    Leave a comment:


  • 'lectric drumma
    replied
    It has no other component than the FSR, which is wired between tip and sleeve.
    Please note that because of the hole made in the FSR, there's now a dead zone into it where any pressure don't do anything left. That's not realy a problem but if the spring is not perfectly parallel with the fsr, The HH behavior may differ a bit depending on where the spring begin to touch the FSR.
    See the pic below :


    This design should also work with Yamaha modules which are compatible with the RHH130, At my knowledge, nobody has already try but the folowing schem should work :



    The FSR is made by Interlinks and it's the big square one (1,5') which is very sensitive, don't try with the very small round one, I almost sure it's enough sensitive. The 1/2 inch round one may work but without any guarantee.
    Some guys have already try this design after seeing my old post, but they all have put the FSR under the foot pedal, which is even far more easy to make (there was an old design made by Hellfire suggesting this idea).
    I can remember a post from someone how tells that he has been able to convert his Yamaha RHH135 to work with his Roland module just by putting this square FSR between the two cymbals (but no pics was posted, maybe know?)
    Am I correct when I understand this like in: if you have a Roland module, all you need is the FSR, no resistor is needed? In my case, I currently play a TD-30 module on an "old" Hart Dynamics Pro-kit, so I am thinking about "upgrading" my hi-hat, so I have the pressure sensitivity. I might want to change to a dual trigger hi-hat as well.

    In case I would try this… how do I now which wire of the FSR has to be wired to the tip, and which one to the sleeve?

    Thanks guys!


    Stijn

    Leave a comment:


  • minerman
    replied
    Sorry man, all I had to do was cut the red & white wires that connect to the pcb with the 1/4" jack, then connect the FSR to 'em...There really isn't any more to what I had to do...The 1/4" jack pcb already has resistors on it, so I don't know if they have to be there or not in order for the FSR to work...

    The 1/4" jack pcb has a little molex (I'm assuming that's what it is) connector on it, & again, I basically replaced the on/off switch with the FSR...


    I will say the FSR is pretty fragile, so I took a razor blade & split the plastic between the 2 connectors so I could keep them apart/insulate them...I probably could have just soldered the wires to the FSR, but was afraid I'd melt it...

    The hi-hat pedal has a square block of soft rubber/dense foam where the pedal pushes down on it, so I used the adhesive side of the FSR, just stuck the FSR on top of it, then hot glued a piece of foam where it would touch the FSR when I push down on the pedal....

    The FSR is really, really sensitive, so I'm still trying to work out how to control it with my foot, but that's most likely just me where I'm not really a drummer....I've been goin' at it non-stop since I modded my controller though, 2-3 hours a day, sometimes more...This is the only way I'm gonna learn to play, & I'm just sick of using the mouse to program the midi, being able to play even at my low skill level is very liberating for me...
    Attached Files
    Last edited by minerman; 01-15-17, 01:02 AM.

    Leave a comment:

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