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Easy to make DIY HiHat controller

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  • perceval
    replied
    Originally posted by Sylv1co View Post
    Great !
    Don't need to drill the FSR this way.

    You don't have any rotation problem with this design ?
    No rotation problem, the base plate is held with a strap of plastic preventing its rotation. The design of the cymbal, with the electronic box attached underneath, always follows the position of the block. Velcro could also be used in place.

    Leave a comment:


  • Sylv1co
    replied
    Originally posted by perceval View Post
    Took a long time coming...

    Here's a pic of my FSR setup.
    It's still in "beta" mode, meaning I'll have to make a sturdier setup, but it is working nicely as it is.

    I put a block of wood between the top hat and the bottom stopper plate. One side has the FSR KRT taped to it with a piece of foam on top. The other side only has the same size piece of foam. The foam is a cheap sponge that tilers will use... as soft as a trigger cone.
    Great !
    Don't need to drill the FSR this way.

    You don't have any rotation problem with this design ?

    Leave a comment:


  • perceval
    replied
    Took a long time coming...

    Here's a pic of my FSR setup.
    It's still in "beta" mode, meaning I'll have to make a sturdier setup, but it is working nicely as it is.

    I put a block of wood between the top hat and the bottom stopper plate. One side has the FSR KRT taped to it with a piece of foam on top. The other side only has the same size piece of foam. The foam is a cheap sponge that tilers will use... as soft as a trigger cone.

    Leave a comment:


  • Sylv1co
    replied
    I don't really understand what the problem is... If you need to press a bit too hard to get the fully closed sound you should remove the 1k resistor since the FSR will never give you less than 1k. I don't really know the purpose of the 151k resistor but you may also try to put a 200K variable resistor instead to see what effect it has on the overall functionning.
    But I think the first step is to find the good material to press the fsr and the good position under your pedal to get the good range.

    Leave a comment:


  • priatnasuardi
    replied
    Originally posted by Sylv1co View Post
    I think the capacitor has nothing to do with your problem. But becarefull, with the foam under the sensor like you did, YOU WILL DESTROY IT ! Put the FSR on a hard plate (it has a adhesive film under) and put some foam to apply the pressure, your FSR will be safe and you should get far better results.
    hi, how to improve the responsiveness? in hh 60 schematic i try before, its really fast using a stepped switch instead of fsr, or maybe i should modified it and incorporating FSR in it,

    its not fully finished yet..its a hard rubber below the fsr and soft rubber to push it, and ill be cutting a hard fiber plate to put below..

    i was using that green ceramic condensator, now a tiny brown one, it does improve a little bit. probably much better after i put hard surface. ill update..

    Leave a comment:


  • ladylala
    replied
    Thanks Sylv1co for putting this thread back up.

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  • Sylv1co
    replied
    Originally posted by priatnasuardi View Post
    yup, i think this one is the easiest to get that conversion, my brain is yamaha dtxtreme2s, your schematic is working. but it less sensitive when i open and close fast. im sure its because im using 0,1uf instead of 100nf. since its 4 o clock in the morning..i guess i have to wait till the shop is open.
    mine is pretty simple, i use the left side pedal of my yamaha double pedals, put some rubber on top of the base plate and put cylinder rubber under the footboard. and put the fsr in between. done! well not 100%

    [ATTACH]20477[/ATTACH]
    I think the capacitor has nothing to do with your problem. But becarefull, with the foam under the sensor like you did, YOU WILL DESTROY IT ! Put the FSR on a hard plate (it has a adhesive film under) and put some foam to apply the pressure, your FSR will be safe and you should get far better results.

    Leave a comment:


  • perceval
    replied
    Wow! You are using some hard components to apply pressure here.
    I only had to use a piece of soft foam to get my FSR working beautifully at all range.

    Maybe it is the added resistance in the loop that requires more pressure. ...

    Leave a comment:


  • priatnasuardi
    replied
    yup, i think this one is the easiest to get that conversion, my brain is yamaha dtxtreme2s, your schematic is working. but it less sensitive when i open and close fast. im sure its because im using 0,1uf instead of 100nf. since its 4 o clock in the morning..i guess i have to wait till the shop is open.
    mine is pretty simple, i use the left side pedal of my yamaha double pedals, put some rubber on top of the base plate and put cylinder rubber under the footboard. and put the fsr in between. done! well not 100%

    IMG00471-20111224-0348.jpg

    Leave a comment:


  • Sabre
    replied
    I thought this was a pretty decent deal with the included voltage divider

    http://www.trossenrobotics.com/1-5i-...istor-Kit.aspx

    Leave a comment:


  • Sylv1co
    replied
    Thanks so much for re-posting this thread!
    You're welcome,
    I get the FSR from Robotshop, but digi-key also sell them and some other around the world. Just google "interlinks square FSR" you'll get some results.

    Leave a comment:


  • TML
    replied
    Thanks so much for re-posting this thread!

    Do you still have the link to site where you bought the FSR?

    Thanks,

    TML

    Leave a comment:


  • perceval
    replied
    I remember Racer52 doing the mod under the pedal. This is one of his videos:
    http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ioJke..._order&list=UL

    As for what I did, I don't think I have any pictures anymore, but basically, I cut a small and not so thick square from wood as a bottom plate and taped the FSR to it. Sliding this plate under the pedal, I used the 2 screws that keeps the hihats stand from moving around on the carpet as a "stopper" and just used clip wires to make the electric connection to a female jack. Plugged the cable directly into the HH controller in the module and tried 3 different size and densities of foam blocks. When I got what I wanted, it played flawlessly!

    I didn't have to add washers and other stuff like racer52. Just the FSR on the plate, a piece of foam under the pedal and I was good to go!

    Hope this helps.

    Leave a comment:


  • Sabre
    replied
    I would like to see the FSR under the pedal mod as well if you have some pictures, or perhaps a link.
    Thanks!

    Leave a comment:


  • perceval
    replied
    Sure,

    I'll try to take some pics when I get the kit out again later this weekend. But I only have the top hat, no bottom hat. You'll see!

    Leave a comment:

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