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Easy to make DIY HiHat controller

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  • VH12 cntrr adpt jack end.jpgother pics
    I could tell you where to stick that piezo! ;)
    Stealthdrums.com Mega Kit: Pearl Mimic Pro ,2Box modules,drums and cymbals too many to count. VST quality sounds directly from the Mimic and custom sounds loaded into and played directly from the 2Box modules. Visit me anytime at: http://stealthdrums.com/

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    • completeVH12 adapter complete mono cable with 10KOhm resistor at plug tip connection.jpg
      I could tell you where to stick that piezo! ;)
      Stealthdrums.com Mega Kit: Pearl Mimic Pro ,2Box modules,drums and cymbals too many to count. VST quality sounds directly from the Mimic and custom sounds loaded into and played directly from the 2Box modules. Visit me anytime at: http://stealthdrums.com/

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      • Originally posted by JmanWord View Post

        I think they used the same pedal in the Epedal II HH stand build that you have. The stand is just a stand attached to a HH control pedal so the cymbal goes up and down with the control pedal. Like I mentioned earlier the Hart adapter is very simple. It just requires a 10Kohm resistor soldered into the Tip cable between the male and female jacks. So, it is just a male and female TS jack, stereo spkr wire, and 10K resistor. Tip wire with resistor wired to the tip connectors, Sleeve wired to the sleeve connectors. In my case I don't bother buying TS jacks anymore since TRS are about the same price. In these pics you can see TRS jack and plug, which works fine, you just don't connect anything to the Ring posts.
        Thanks for the information. Seems like a small DIY is coming up . And good to hear that the Epedal stand in the end used the same pedal as before, but attached to a stand. I'd prefer to have my hi-hat seperately from my hi-hat pedal, I have a double bass pedal, and not needing a hi-hat stand allows closer positioning of my actual hi-hat.

        Just to be clear though, if I want the pressure sensitivity on my TD-30, not only the adapter is needed, but the FSR is still needed as well, right?

        Thanks again - and a lot!


        Stijn
        'lectric drumma
        Roland TD-20, Hart Dynamics 7.6, 2 x PD-7, extra PD-7 and Hart Snare laying around, Vic Firth Dave Weckl signature sticks, Axis A-longboards double pedal, Sony MDR-CD780 headphones and not enough inputs.

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        • Originally posted by 'lectric drumma View Post

          Thanks for the information. Seems like a small DIY is coming up . And good to hear that the Epedal stand in the end used the same pedal as before, but attached to a stand. I'd prefer to have my hi-hat seperately from my hi-hat pedal, I have a double bass pedal, and not needing a hi-hat stand allows closer positioning of my actual hi-hat.

          Just to be clear though, if I want the pressure sensitivity on my TD-30, not only the adapter is needed, but the FSR is still needed as well, right?

          Thanks again - and a lot!


          Stijn
          No, the point is that adapter is what Hart used with the Epedal II stand and you could set it to VH12 and get the extra tight transition. So, assuming the pedal is similar without the stand that you have, you should be able to add that adapter, set the type to VH12 in the module and get the same extra tight transitions with your pedal. But before you even bother with that as I mentioned before you should be able to get the Extra tight transition with your pedal by setting the CCMAX to 127 instead of 90. I did that with the FD7 on the TD20 and got the extra tight transition. Try it ....
          I could tell you where to stick that piezo! ;)
          Stealthdrums.com Mega Kit: Pearl Mimic Pro ,2Box modules,drums and cymbals too many to count. VST quality sounds directly from the Mimic and custom sounds loaded into and played directly from the 2Box modules. Visit me anytime at: http://stealthdrums.com/

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          • Originally posted by JmanWord View Post

            But before you even bother with that as I mentioned before you should be able to get the Extra tight transition with your pedal by setting the CCMAX to 127 instead of 90. I did that with the FD7 on the TD20 and got the extra tight transition. Try it ....
            Thanks, that works! BTW, what pad would be best in the module for the hi-hat? Not the VH-12 since I don't see the CCMAX-settings then. Currently, the CY-5 is selected as hi-hat pad, is that the best option? Or would VH-11 be better suited?

            Am I right if I understand it like this:
            • VH-11/CY-5 setting in combination with CCMAX to 127: gives the extra tight position sound when the hi-hat pedal is pushed into the normal closed position. For the "normal" closed position sound you need to open the pedal a bit. So this is in fact the reverse of an acoustic hi-hat, instead of pressing harder to get the extra tight position sound, you release pressure to get the "normal" closed position sound;
            • using the adapter lets you select the VH-12 pad in the module, without physically playing the VH-12 hi-hat. The end result is exactly the same as the above bullet-point;
            • using an FSR would allow to use a non-VH-12 hi-hat pedal, like an FD-7, Epedal II,... and get the playing feel of a physical VH-12/acoustic hi-hat, where you have a normal closed hi-hat sound when the hi-hat pedal is physically in a normal closed position, and you get an extra tight hi-hat sound when you physically press harder on the pedal.
            Thanks!


            Stijn
            'lectric drumma
            Roland TD-20, Hart Dynamics 7.6, 2 x PD-7, extra PD-7 and Hart Snare laying around, Vic Firth Dave Weckl signature sticks, Axis A-longboards double pedal, Sony MDR-CD780 headphones and not enough inputs.

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            • The thing is the extra tight transition is meant to be accessed by pressing HARD on the pedal. And that is how it works with the VH-12 VH-13, it is the reason there is a bottom platform that is cymbal like that gives you the base to compress with the extra tight push .... So this is easily achievable with a HH stand/pedal combination like the Hart or the one I build. When you close the pedal you set the top cymbal/clutch in a position where you only get the extra tight sound by putting additional pressure on the pedal, so you are actually squeezing the 2 cymbals tighter to achieve extra tight. By using the pedal alone like you are doing you would need to do some kind of physical mod so that you have to press harder to get the extra tight sound .... sorry, I'll have to bow out now ..... can't spend more time on this .... hope it helps. J
              I could tell you where to stick that piezo! ;)
              Stealthdrums.com Mega Kit: Pearl Mimic Pro ,2Box modules,drums and cymbals too many to count. VST quality sounds directly from the Mimic and custom sounds loaded into and played directly from the 2Box modules. Visit me anytime at: http://stealthdrums.com/

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              • Here's my latest fsr hi hat controller. I originally built an under the pedal controller. It worked fine but wasn't responsive enough for me. I had to open way before to get a good splash sound and the foot splash was impossible. This new design is totally stealth and I believe since it is directly impacted by the clutch is much more responsive. I mangled the fsr a bit as you can see while drilling the hole but it seems fine. It is just like a real hi hat now. I'm using no resistor and set to vh11. I even get the extra tight sound using a td12. I couldn't be happier with this really.

                By the way. I understand that the point of the parallel resistor is to bring the range down to 20k but how does. This impact play with and without the resistor. If I could improve the functionality even more with a resistor I will add one!

                image.jpegimage.jpegimage.jpeg
                Attached Files

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                • Nice!
                  'lectric drumma
                  Roland TD-20, Hart Dynamics 7.6, 2 x PD-7, extra PD-7 and Hart Snare laying around, Vic Firth Dave Weckl signature sticks, Axis A-longboards double pedal, Sony MDR-CD780 headphones and not enough inputs.

                  Comment


                  • Very nice, indeed. Did you use a 3D printer ? DIY seems to take another meaning those days...

                    I like to see this FSR with a hole inside, it's the best fsr design for me. Actuate the FSR with the clutch is the way to get the best result, and you can change the space between the 2 cymbals without changin the Hihat behavior. With the FSR under the pedal, you can't.

                    I'm using no resistor and set to vh11. I even get the extra tight sound using a td12.
                    If you set the trigger type to VH-11, the TD-12 module don't let you access to the extra tight sound, it's only possible when it is set to VH-12.

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                    • Hmmmm I swear when I push real hard I hear the extra to tight sound. I even checked the sound by setting cc to 127 to hear the extra tight articulation and it sounds the same as when I push extra hard on the pedal.

                      So sylv1co, can you explain how the resistors affect the playing behavior of the hi hat? And yes it is 3D printed. I also 3D printed my cymbal triggers in the other thread. I'm liking the results.

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                      • Hmmmm I swear when I push real hard I hear the extra to tight sound. I even checked the sound by setting cc to 127 to hear the extra tight articulation and it sounds the same as when I push extra hard on the pedal.
                        You can hear the extra tight sound if you set your HH type to VH-12, then pedal down should easely give you the full pressure and then hit the pad to hear this sound. Is it what you already done ?

                        So sylv1co, can you explain how the resistors affect the playing behavior of the hi hat? And yes it is 3D printed. I also 3D printed my cymbal triggers in the other thread. I'm liking the results.
                        The 20k in parallel is optional, as you said before, it's here to put the FSR in the good range of resistance. Better is to place a variable resistor, it lets you set the hh range.
                        The 5k or 10k in serie is emulate the VH-12 since this hh dont go down under 5k or 10k when it is full pressed. Without this resistor, you reach the full pressure to early.
                        Last edited by Sylv1co; 03-19-19, 01:34 AM.

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                        • Originally posted by Sylv1co View Post
                          I like to see this FSR with a hole inside, it's the best fsr design for me. Actuate the FSR with the clutch is the way to get the best result, and you can change the space between the 2 cymbals without changin the Hihat behavior. With the FSR under the pedal, you can't.
                          But with the FSR under the pedal, you can use a pedal like e.g. the FD-7, without needing a hi-hat stand, right?

                          'lectric drumma
                          Roland TD-20, Hart Dynamics 7.6, 2 x PD-7, extra PD-7 and Hart Snare laying around, Vic Firth Dave Weckl signature sticks, Axis A-longboards double pedal, Sony MDR-CD780 headphones and not enough inputs.

                          Comment


                          • Originally posted by Aka Wayne View Post
                            And yes it is 3D printed. I also 3D printed my cymbal triggers in the other thread. I'm liking the results.
                            Hi!

                            Nice design! Did you by chance share your 3D design of the FSR pedal control somewhere?

                            Best regards

                            Anders / www.zourman.com
                            Pearl CrystalBeat and Sonor Safari, Roland CY-14/13R/15R/12CR, RT-10x,2xBT-1,VH-11/12/13 & KD-10, Quartz, Pintech Dingbat, Triggera D14,D11, ATV AD-h14, 120MHz MegaDRUM with PS board, 2box 5&3, dd4SE, TD-9, Addictive Drums 2.1.8. All ADpaks, Microsoft Surface PRO, Macbook, Pearl Throne Thumper, Zourman HH & Ride Conv Kit www.zourman.com

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                            • No I havenít but if you want my files pm me and Iíll send them to you.

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