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  • jman 31
    replied
    Originally posted by racer52 View Post
    All 3 segments are up on you tube... complete with more plugs for you, chromeboy, and jmanword, as well as a good dose of reference to vdrums.com.

    http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Saqmg...eature=channel
    http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gMfSj...eature=channel
    http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oWXSr...eature=channel
    Nice Racer52! I love the cake pan design, and your implementation of it is extremely clean! I never cared much for the cross bar design as it is very labor intensive. This way looks extremely simple to do. GREAT VIDS!

    J

    Leave a comment:


  • cheapthrill
    replied
    Originally posted by racer52 View Post
    All 3 segments are up on you tube... complete with more plugs for you, chromeboy, and jmanword, as well as a good dose of reference to vdrums.com.

    http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Saqmg...eature=channel
    http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gMfSj...eature=channel
    http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oWXSr...eature=channel
    Hey, I just watched all 3 vids. They should come in very handy to a new DIYer. Nice job. And I love your addition of nutserts, they should make for great isolation between the head and the rim piezos.

    Leave a comment:


  • racer52
    replied
    Originally posted by Hellfire View Post
    Good looking build as always Racer52. Good video as well, very detailed. I look forward to the other two videos. BTW, Thanks for the website plug.
    All 3 segments are up on you tube... complete with more plugs for you, chromeboy, and jmanword, as well as a good dose of reference to vdrums.com.

    http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Saqmg...eature=channel
    http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gMfSj...eature=channel
    http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oWXSr...eature=channel

    Leave a comment:


  • Hellfire
    replied
    Good looking build as always Racer52. Good video as well, very detailed. I look forward to the other two videos. BTW, Thanks for the website plug.

    Leave a comment:


  • racer52
    replied
    Originally posted by allanjohn View Post
    Looks good- any change of a side-on view?
    lol... not tonight!

    I did just get the first video posted to YouTube, that might shed some more light

    you can find it here:
    http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SaqmgyEtdlU

    i'll try to get the second segment uploaded.. but I neeed to get to bed..it is 11PM for me.

    Leave a comment:


  • allanjohn
    replied
    Looks good- any change of a side-on view?

    Leave a comment:


  • racer52
    replied
    imitation - the sincerest form of flattery..

    got one bolted together - a 10" tom from a youth/child drum kit with a cake pan from K-Mart.

    more pics here:
    http://s814.photobucket.com/albums/z...37;20projects/



    The pan is slightly tappered on the sides and dropped in really nice. I needed to clearance the pan where the bolts for the tom arm mount touched the pan. The bottom of the pan clears the tom mounting arm.

    I also mounted the thick panel TRS high on the shell so that it protrudes directly into the cake pan and is all but unseen from the bottom side. This will make a very clean install on drums that are made from a full drum and then cut in half to make two edrums.

    The rim is a lot hotter than my 12" DIY snare, used the 35mm piezos on both the head and the rim triggers. .. might could use a smaller rim piezo... I didn't bother to adjust my TD-20 as this drum will not be replacing my snare anyway. I liked the concept ..just had to build it

    I am trying to upload a three part video on youtube showing the construction..not that it needs to be 3 parts, I just don't have the ability to paste/link them into one video. when I hit stop/start on my camera, it makes a new file.

    Update: .... got the first of the 3 videos up on YouTube:
    http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SaqmgyEtdlU
    Last edited by racer52; 06-02-10, 09:56 PM.

    Leave a comment:


  • moisey_4
    replied
    Thanks for the info guys, there are just so many different options for these conversions its hard to pick out the best. I think I will go with the x-brace design for this first time, since it will be easier to do and troubleshoot. Seems like everyone is getting really good results with this design, by the sound of things. I will post my conversion in detail later. As of now I only have the module and the drums; still a long road ahead of me, but I'm slowly stocking up on both necessary parts and information.

    Leave a comment:


  • fulrmr(Daniel)
    replied
    Originally posted by cheapthrill View Post
    To add to this, the timeless equation of noise control vs. triggering comes into play here as well. I am pretty sure that Daniel doesn't do much to dampen his, and that is fine if some ringing/noise is not a big issue with you, but the quieter you make them, the trickier it is to get the rim + cross-sticking sounds how they should be. I will also mention that, if you have a TD-20 then this is not as much of a challenge as it is for a TD-8. I have tried the same drop-in trigger on both modules and there is a little difference there... the TD-8 predates the basket-style PD-series triggers and doesn't even have a setting for that. Another big factor is what is going over your hoops. Thick fuel line hose really almost dampens the rim too much, whereas the clear PVC tubing (like Jmanword uses) or no rim guard at all yields a much better rim response. If using a heftier rim guard, a X-member will allow better rim triggering... at least on a TD-8.
    I agree. I will be going to a thinner material for my rims also.

    Leave a comment:


  • cheapthrill
    replied
    Originally posted by fulrmr(Daniel) View Post
    I've done both also except I'm from the opposite camp on this. For me, these were much easier to build and with the consistant rim response that was mentioned, it was a no-brainer. I wish this build had come about before I did my first conversion. I will never go back to the crossbar method should I decide to build another kit. Fotunately, these things will probly last forever. So if I decide to get a new shell pack or something....I can just drop them in and start playing. As said though, these are a bit harder to troubleshoot so if you go this route do all your testing before buttoning everything up. That's what I did and have not had a problem since.
    To add to this, the timeless equation of noise control vs. triggering comes into play here as well. I am pretty sure that Daniel doesn't do much to dampen his, and that is fine if some ringing/noise is not a big issue with you, but the quieter you make them, the trickier it is to get the rim + cross-sticking sounds how they should be. I will also mention that, if you have a TD-20 then this is not as much of a challenge as it is for a TD-8. I have tried the same drop-in trigger on both modules and there is a little difference there... the TD-8 predates the basket-style PD-series triggers and doesn't even have a setting for that. Another big factor is what is going over your hoops. Thick fuel line hose really almost dampens the rim too much, whereas the clear PVC tubing (like Jmanword uses) or no rim guard at all yields a much better rim response. If using a heftier rim guard, a X-member will allow better rim triggering... at least on a TD-8.

    Leave a comment:


  • fulrmr(Daniel)
    replied
    Originally posted by cheapthrill View Post
    I've tried both, so I'll give you my 2...

    I think the X-member method is cheaper, easier to troubleshoot, and quieter. The drop-in method allows the shells to remain unscathed and can offer a more consistent rim response... however, using multiple piezos on the shell with a X-member method works pretty well too, and you can also install them without harming the shells if done right. There are pros and cons to both methods really.

    If this is your first DIY kit, then I suggest you go with a X-member design. Many have used it and will continue using it with great success.
    I've done both also except I'm from the opposite camp on this. For me, these were much easier to build and with the consistant rim response that was mentioned, it was a no-brainer. I wish this build had come about before I did my first conversion. I will never go back to the crossbar method should I decide to build another kit. Fotunately, these things will probly last forever. So if I decide to get a new shell pack or something....I can just drop them in and start playing. As said though, these are a bit harder to troubleshoot so if you go this route do all your testing before buttoning everything up. That's what I did and have not had a problem since.

    Leave a comment:


  • cheapthrill
    replied
    Originally posted by moisey_4 View Post
    Hi everyone, I have been lurking around on this forum for quiet some time just gathering information about building my own A-E drum kit. Today I took the plunge and bought a td9 drum module to use for my conversion. I decided if it works out well for me I can always upgrade to something better since I only paid $610 for the td9 with all cables. My question: is this pan drop-in idea a better overall design/system for e-drums (better then the cross brace design I mean)? It seems to me that this is the closest thing to the basket system roland uses on the high-end drum kits. Does it work better than the cross brace design? Drilling holes or damaging bearing edges in shells isn't an issue for me since the kit I'm planning to build will permanently be an E-kit. Which design works better for those of you who have tried both?
    I've tried both, so I'll give you my 2...

    I think the X-member method is cheaper, easier to troubleshoot, and quieter. The drop-in method allows the shells to remain unscathed and can offer a more consistent rim response... however, using multiple piezos on the shell with a X-member method works pretty well too, and you can also install them without harming the shells if done right. There are pros and cons to both methods really.

    If this is your first DIY kit, then I suggest you go with a X-member design. Many have used it and will continue using it with great success.

    Leave a comment:


  • moisey_4
    replied
    Hi everyone, I have been lurking around on this forum for quiet some time just gathering information about building my own A-E drum kit. Today I took the plunge and bought a td9 drum module to use for my conversion. I decided if it works out well for me I can always upgrade to something better since I only paid $610 for the td9 with all cables. My question: is this pan drop-in idea a better overall design/system for e-drums (better then the cross brace design I mean)? It seems to me that this is the closest thing to the basket system roland uses on the high-end drum kits. Does it work better than the cross brace design? Drilling holes or damaging bearing edges in shells isn't an issue for me since the kit I'm planning to build will permanently be an E-kit. Which design works better for those of you who have tried both?

    Leave a comment:


  • BeatDude
    replied
    This system sounds like the answer to my prayers! I will be ordering my pans and posting my results when I finish. I have been watching this site for a while now and just sign up. Thank you guys for sharing your experience! Now I am going to burn up the internet getting everything together and making my wife crazy with melting our debit card! :-))

    Thanks, Joel

    Leave a comment:


  • rasoo
    replied
    You mentioned you wanted 1 13" pan and 2 x 11" pans... that is what I am after also as well.
    I was thinking I would get 2 x 13" pans but I already have a dedicated 12" snare I would convert, so no need to do my 14" acoustic snare, just the 14" tom I use.

    So, you would be after exactly what I am after. $109AUD inc shipping.
    That would be the set + 1 extra 11" pan.

    Leave a comment:

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