Announcement

Collapse
No announcement yet.

Easy to make cone jig

Collapse
This is a sticky topic.
X
X
  • Filter
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts

  • Easy to make cone jig

    Pic #1:Shows the complete jig with axis pin in place. Two 1 1/2" x 1/8" pieces of aluminum screwed to a 2 1/4" wide x 1 3/8" thick piece of wood. I use a table saw to rip a 2x4 down to 1 3/8" but you could stack various thicknesses to equal 1 3/8". You can make the thickness equal to whatever your foam is. I also made one for Roto-toms that is only 1" thick...all other measurements remain the same. I am using a 1 3/4" "T" pin...a 2" pin would work better I think.

    Pic #2: Using the smallest bit I have I drilled a hole in the bottom piece in the center (3/4" from each side) and a hole in the top piece 1/8" from one side trying to keep the same measurement from each end. I secure the bottom piece of aluminum first then using a square block of the 1 3/8" wood as a guide I secure the top piece. It is important that the holes are lined up square and plumb with each other. The edges of the aluminum should be flush with the wood on either side. The two lines on the bottom piece are used to line-up the foam blank and keep the center over the hole. Clamp the jig to your work bench.

    Pic #3: I use one square of 3/8" Supersoft Poron foam (adhesive backed) sandwiched between two squares of 1/2" foam. I calculated each layer's maximum dimension and made strips to mark the back of the Poron sheets in squares that I cut with my electric carving/filet knife. The left measurements are the proper dimension for each layer...the right denotes each layer's thickness. I then stack the layers ala Jman's Castles using the adhesive but do not remove the bottom layer's paper (use that adhesive to adhere to your piezo). Alternating the layers will help to center them. I used to cut circles but found this easier although a little more wasteful.

    Pic #4: The blank is ready for the knife. Using the marks center the blank and push the pin in from the bottom as square as you can...this is tricky but if you miss the top hole just pull the pin away from the top piece slightly and poke it just above the foam's surface and slide it back into position. A small block of wood glued to the underside next to the hole might aid this step. If I find a longer pin I plan to glue a guide block with a small hole there. The top of the pin should only protrude slighly above the top or the knife will hit it. The closer to the axis you get the better your cones will look. If you are off the cone will be somewhat angled...not a big deal really IMO.

    Pic #5: Using an electric knife (you can use fine tooth manual saw or knife) I start to cut holding the blade against the jig...once the blade gets to the axis gently turn the cone by hand towards the blade. Be carefull not to distort the cone as you turn. I cut in small passes until I get the shape right spinning the cone and trimming. With the cone still in the jig, I then use 50 grit sandpaper and buff the sides but that sep is not critical. I use an exacto knife to cut the slot in the bottom of the cone for the wires but I have heard of people using a hot soldering iron. I also filed the top piece of aluminum at an angle to allow the knife better contact with the foam...if you don't the cone will be slightly larger than 1/4" at the top...no bigggie IMO.

    It's important to know that I am a "lefty" and this jig is designed for "lefties" only. If you "righties" can't figure it out then too bad.
    Attached Files
    Last edited by bogiesbad; 04-13-09, 10:28 PM.
    chris :D

  • #2
    Originally posted by bogiesbad View Post

    It's important to know that I am a "lefty" and this jig is designed for "lefties" only. If you "righties" can't figure it out then too bad.
    Thanks for building mine for a righty..... I would have cut off a finger with a lefty jig
    I could tell you where to stick that piezo! ;)
    Stealthdrums.com Mega Kit: Powered by 2ea. 2Box modules, drums and cymbals too many to count. VST quality sounds loaded into and played directly from the modules. Visit me anytime at: http://stealthdrums.com/

    Comment


    • #3
      Originally posted by JmanWord View Post
      Thanks for building mine for a righty.....
      That was a real ***** I'm here to tell you...trying to read a tape while looking in the mirror.
      chris :D

      Comment


      • #4
        Chris,
        Have you tried stacking up three pieces of 3/4" Poron = 2-1/4" tall cone? I'd like to take a stab at building a few cones but it would be much less expensive to use a single sheet of foam. I know it would work, but I'm wondering how PD might be effected.
        I was even thinking the soft foam (rather than super soft) might work since the cone would be 1/4" taller. The soft foam is also less expensive. What made me think this is (I'm a cheap SOB), I recently bought some new cones that are firmer than my old ones and my PD is much better than ever before. Same mounts. Same 27mm piezo. The only other difference is these came with adhesive on the back of the piezo already installed and it covers the entire brass area. I had to dial up the sensitivity a little, but they seem much more rugged and the results are better than anything I've tried in the past.
        Sorry if this has been covered previously. I looked around but didn't find anything.

        Comment


        • #5
          The first cones I made were from stacking 3 layers of 1/2" SOFT Poron yielding 1 & 1/2" tall....they worked fine but I think you would be pushing it to go taller. The jig is actually easier to make as you can just use a 2 x 4 without planing it down to 1 & 3/8". I still have two of those first cones on a couple of toms. I have seen no problems with the adhesive covering the entire piezo.
          chris :D

          Comment


          • #6
            Did you try mine?
            Originally posted by Poco Askew View Post
            Chris,
            Have you tried stacking up three pieces of 3/4" Poron = 2-1/4" tall cone? I'd like to take a stab at building a few cones but it would be much less expensive to use a single sheet of foam. I know it would work, but I'm wondering how PD might be effected.
            I was even thinking the soft foam (rather than super soft) might work since the cone would be 1/4" taller. The soft foam is also less expensive. What made me think this is (I'm a cheap SOB), I recently bought some new cones that are firmer than my old ones and my PD is much better than ever before. Same mounts. Same 27mm piezo. The only other difference is these came with adhesive on the back of the piezo already installed and it covers the entire brass area. I had to dial up the sensitivity a little, but they seem much more rugged and the results are better than anything I've tried in the past.
            Sorry if this has been covered previously. I looked around but didn't find anything.
            Questions or order at http://quartzpercussions.com/ or info@quartzpercussions.com


            sigpic

            Comment


            • #7
              Originally posted by quartz View Post
              Did you try mine?
              Did you ever fix the problem with the leads breaking off of the piezos on the cones you sell?
              chris :D

              Comment


              • #8
                Originally posted by bogiesbad View Post
                Did you ever fix the problem with the leads breaking off of the piezos on the cones you sell?
                Hi.
                Its the first time I have a complain about that. Why do you never told me that before? I assume a 100% garanty on all my stuff and refund money if your not satisfied. The piezo used on my triggers are already welded by the manufacturer and they put a drop of hard glue on each spot of lead. The wiring gauge 32 is thin but enough to do this kind of job. Digikey sold thousands of those every months. I dare to hope that they are rather solid for their functions otherwise that would make a long time that there would have been a lot of people dissatisfied. For my self, my kit is done with the same kind of piezo since 3 years and tested severely every day by me and my kids and I never had to redo a weld.
                Questions or order at http://quartzpercussions.com/ or info@quartzpercussions.com


                sigpic

                Comment


                • #9
                  32 is awfully thin wire Quartz but I guess those could be replaced by the buyer. Does it damge the cone when you pull it off the piezo?
                  chris :D

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    another method

                    http://www.edrums.info/foam_cone.htm
                    More hardware than skill!!

                    GAS has taken over!! MY KIT
                    TDW-20 | VEX kits | PD-125 x 3 | PD-105 x 2 | CY-14c x 2 | CY-15r x 1 | KD-120 | CY-12r/c x 2

                    Iron Cobra Lever Glide | Iron Cobra Power Glide Kick Pedal | DIY GHWT Midi Controller

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      I gave this a try, and...

                      I love it! Thanks, bogiesbad!

                      I used Bogiebad's ingenious concepts, with a few changes of my own...

                      He mentioned that he would use a T-pin in retrospect, but I couldn't find any longer than 1 3/4". So instead of a T-pin, I bought a set of large needles from Walmart. The needle sets in place because the base stops it from going through.

                      I used metal strips for the cutting edge too, since it will hold up to long-term usage the best. On the lower piece, it is butted up against a strip of acrylic (taped down with heavy-duty mounting tape). I used acrylic instead of metal on both sides because I already had some laying around, and it seems pretty slippery too (less friction when turning foam while cutting).

                      And because I am right-handed, I made mine for a righty.

                      Another thing worth mentioning: Electric fillet knives (like fishermen use) get to be pretty expensive. I got an electric turkey carving knife from Walmart for $15 and it works really well.





                      sigpic

                      Comment


                      • #12
                        Originally posted by cheapthrill View Post
                        I love it! Thanks, bogiesbad!

                        I used Bogiebad's ingenious concepts, with a few changes of my own...

                        He mentioned that he would use a T-pin in retrospect, but I couldn't find any longer than 1 3/4". So instead of a T-pin, I bought a set of large needles from Walmart. The needle sets in place because the base stops it from going through.

                        I used metal strips for the cutting edge too, since it will hold up to long-term usage the best. On the lower piece, it is butted up against a strip of acrylic (taped down with heavy-duty mounting tape). I used acrylic instead of metal on both sides because I already had some laying around, and it seems pretty slippery too (less friction when turning foam while cutting).

                        And because I am right-handed, I made mine for a righty.

                        Another thing worth mentioning: Electric fillet knives (like fishermen use) get to be pretty expensive. I got an electric turkey carving knife from Walmart for $15 and it works really well.





                        Soooooooo....show us a cone! This is pretty cool! Great just what I need....another project!
                        8 piece DIY Acrylic, 2x2Box DrumIt5, Gen16 4xDCP, DIY Acrylic&Gen16 Conversions, Sleishman Twin-QuadSteele hybrid, Gibraltar&DrumFrame rack, DW9502LB, Midi Knights Pro Lighting
                        http://www.airbrushartists.org/DreamscapeAirbrushRealm

                        Comment


                        • #13
                          I have been reading and watching the info at e.drums: http://edrums.info/foam_cone/ about how to make a foam cone yourself. I really miss an instruction video here, because I don't know the heck what kind of sanding stuff plate he has been using and how you can get a cone-form out of that. I have been trying a little myself but I couldn't find a strong sanding paper onto which to sand the poronfoam. And apart from that, how is it possible to sand a cone-form out of that???

                          I love to hear from you and if possible to watch a clear video tutorial. Would help me a lot, my energy is limited and it is frustrating to keep ending up empty-handed.

                          Comment


                          • #14
                            .....
                            Roland TD-15
                            TAMA MetroJam2 TRB A2E

                            Comment

                            Working...
                            X