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  • Hihat inside

    I want to build a inside the hihat controller. Got an alesis trigger io.


    Ive read this thread : http://vdrums.com/forum/showthread.php?t=46103

    Looks interessant but i dont get how he fix the hole thing to the upper rod .

    Could someone make a step by step how it is done? Dont get it....


    Hopping some positive answers.
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    http://vdrums.com/forum/showthread.php?t=44552&page=2

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  • #2
    how much are the fd7 in ebay...

    i dont know if making a jmanword mod with mi hihat stand and the fd7........

    Im using an alesis trigger io

    here my stand:




    [/URL]


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    http://vdrums.com/forum/showthread.php?t=44552&page=2

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    Comment


    • #3
      Originally posted by Tinaso View Post
      I want to build a inside the hihat controller. Got an alesis trigger io.


      Ive read this thread : http://vdrums.com/forum/showthread.php?t=46103

      Looks interessant but i dont get how he fix the hole thing to the upper rod .

      Could someone make a step by step how it is done? Dont get it....


      Hopping some positive answers.

      From what I understand of his posting, the parts are not attached to the rod, nor to the upper cymbal, nor cymbal clutch.

      In the thread you refer to, see post # 14, paragraph 3

      Poko Askew states:
      First the larger cylinder was cut from standard 1-1/2" schedule 40 PVC plumbing pipe. The OD for this pipe is about 1.670" (sorry ex-machinist; I'm used to giving dimensions in 1/1000's of an inch). The ID is not critical in this project. The pipe was finished to a length of 2-1/4". Then a 2" plumbing test cap was glued (welded) to one end with PVC cement and trimmed to the same OD as the pipe. The test cap was center drilled with a 7/16" bit, which gives a good snug slip fit over the hi hat stand's rod bushing. This test cap is 1/8" thick so the overall length of the finished cylinder is 2-3/8".

      From this it seems that the larger cylinder stays attached to the hi hat rod bushing, located at the inside of the bottom cymbal, by means of friction fit. This holds the larger cylinder to the stand. The rod passes thru the bushing and does not contact the larger cylinder. This would mean that the larger cylinder, and the pot mounted to it, stay stationary with the lower cymbal.

      The internal spring applies upward pressure to the smaller plunger and pushes the smaller plunger up against the top cymbal. The smaller plunger has holes at each end that are larger than the hi hat rod, allowing it to free-float up and down, only being held in place by the spring tension against it and the top cymbal. The top cymbal would need to be lowered to a point that it makes contact to the plunger.


      That is how I read the construction of it. Hope that helps. if not let me know... I'll be trying this same thing myself in the next few weeks! I am building a mini A-E conversion. - see my posting below
      TD-20 (non expanded), acoustic look DIY a to e conversion - some cake pan/ some crossbar method. DIY cymbals, VH-12 :-)
      .
      Psalm 150
      had the best times with this band https://www.facebook.com/SaintHooliganMusic
      YouTube video postings: https://www.youtube.com/user/racer52online/videos
      Vdrums Photo Albums: http://www.vdrums.com/member/26923-racer52/media

      Comment


      • #4
        Originally posted by racer52 View Post
        From what I understand of his posting, the parts are not attached to the rod, nor to the upper cymbal, nor cymbal clutch.

        In the thread you refer to, see post # 14, paragraph 3

        Poko Askew states:
        First the larger cylinder was cut from standard 1-1/2" schedule 40 PVC plumbing pipe. The OD for this pipe is about 1.670" (sorry ex-machinist; I'm used to giving dimensions in 1/1000's of an inch). The ID is not critical in this project. The pipe was finished to a length of 2-1/4". Then a 2" plumbing test cap was glued (welded) to one end with PVC cement and trimmed to the same OD as the pipe. The test cap was center drilled with a 7/16" bit, which gives a good snug slip fit over the hi hat stand's rod bushing. This test cap is 1/8" thick so the overall length of the finished cylinder is 2-3/8".

        From this it seems that the larger cylinder stays attached to the hi hat rod bushing, located at the inside of the bottom cymbal, by means of friction fit. This holds the larger cylinder to the stand. The rod passes thru the bushing and does not contact the larger cylinder. This would mean that the larger cylinder, and the pot mounted to it, stay stationary with the lower cymbal.

        The internal spring applies upward pressure to the smaller plunger and pushes the smaller plunger up against the top cymbal. The smaller plunger has holes at each end that are larger than the hi hat rod, allowing it to free-float up and down, only being held in place by the spring tension against it and the top cymbal. The top cymbal would need to be lowered to a point that it makes contact to the plunger.


        That is how I read the construction of it. Hope that helps. if not let me know... I'll be trying this same thing myself in the next few weeks! I am building a mini A-E conversion. - see my posting below

        Thanks for the answer!!!!

        If it is so, that dont convice me. Im pushing a fd7 in ebay i think. So did bakerboy also with the alesis trigger io. I want to do that build jmanword did. But without drilling anything to my hihat stand. Is that posible?

        I dont know how much the roland fd7 once was... how much are they going in ebay? Im pushin in ebay germany hehehe.


        Ciao
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        http://vdrums.com/forum/showthread.php?t=44552&page=2

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        Comment


        • #5
          Originally posted by Tinaso View Post
          I want to build a inside the hihat controller. Got an alesis trigger io.
          I´ve read this thread : http://vdrums.com/forum/showthread.php?t=46103
          Looks interessant but i dont get how he fix the hole thing to the upper rod .
          Could someone make a step by step how it is done? Dont get it....
          Hopping some positive answers.
          Racer is correct. Nothing is attached to the cymbals or hi hat stand.
          The larger cylinder doesn't need to be friction fit. Gravity and the spring hold the large cylinder down, while the spring holds the small cylinder up (when the hi hats are open). As the hi hats close, the clutch pushes down on the small cylinder (plunger).
          It is a very simple design. The only slightly tricky part is cutting the the small cylinder to the correct length for your particular hi hats. The good thing is you have a fair amount of adjustment available with your hi hat clutch. Just move the two nuts up or down on the clutch to change how far it pushes the plunger. Be careful so as not to break the slide pot when experimenting. With my hats, I found 1-1/2" plunger length has the bottom nut flush with the end of the clutch and it works perfectly. For a little more +/- adjustment, I might go with 1-1/8" to 1-1/4" (with my hats).
          I set and tighten the top cymbal where I can just begin to feel the spring resistance from plunger under it. It has been working great for me since I installed it (only a couple of weeks so far). I am able to get the full open sound, the full range of closing sounds, tightly closed, and foot splash. It is completely stealth and very easy to move from one stand to another. Once set, I've not had to "play" with adjustments.
          Good luck! Ask away if you need more info.
          Last edited by Poco Askew; 01-23-09, 08:31 AM.

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