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My DIY in progress

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  • My DIY in progress

    Ok so I'm converting my Pacific MX emerald fade kit over to e's for my TD-20 brain and so far so good. RE: my diy in prgress photo attached

    I just went the easy route and threw money at the conversion so I installed the Hart mesh heads and decided on DDrum Snare triggers for of course snare but also the toms. I'm still awaiting the Tom triggers to arrive in shipment at the time of the photos I attached so it's still a work in progress. The reason I went snare triggers is because they are the only dual zone ddrum trigger they make so of course I want the head and rim action on the toms so it should suffice there. Of course, all but the the bass drum which is a DDrum BD trigger. I was deligted that the one snare drum trigger I have in posession is just as accurate, yet better feeling than the stock v-drum. It actually feels like a real drum now because it is but with the mesh heads so it's coming together awesome.

    I went with the vinyl tubing all around the rims to cut the clicks and save the sticks.

    Here's my hang-up right now. I have a Gibraltar rack but it's old chrome and has seen too much road to justify grunging up this kit. I want to replace the mickey mouse right angle clamps on the stock Roland rack with the gibraltars because I like the look of the black curve rack with this kit. How would one go about bypassing those cable holes in the stock clamps without throwing more money at a wire harness that is already esablished as perfectly functional? Refer to "stock right angle clamp" photo below.

    Also, I want the look of real cymbals but don't want to drill or vinylize my real cymbals. As an offhand remark, my wife said, "Why don't you just throw them over the rubber cymbals?" Duh! BINGO! (Refer to cymbal trigger mod pic below). Well it works for the most part but since the ride's bell cup isn't the same size as the cy-15r mock bell, I still get a resonance with the cymbal and it's causing alot of mistriggers from the vibration. Has anyone ever tried to make something like this work before and if so, how? I'm thinking some foam sandwiched between the two may work but I don't have foam at the time to test. Also is there a seperate trigger sensitivity level adjustment for the ride cymbal bell on the TD-20?
    Attached Files
    Last edited by fritzmusic; 04-01-10, 09:45 PM.
    My Setup: Converted Pacific A to E, DW5000 Accelerator double pedal, Ahead sticks, Presonus Firepod, Denon DN-HP1000 headphones, HP Pavilion DV9000 laptop running Drumkit from Hell Solo, Sonar Producer.

  • #2
    Looks good
    TD-12

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    • #3
      Updated photos

      I couldn't get my bass drum ddrum trigger to respond properly with all the treatments I gave the BD so I just slid it up to the Roland KD trigger. Lazy way out, I know but I'll figure it out. Been tweaking the kit over the years and this is my newest configuration.
      Attached Files
      My Setup: Converted Pacific A to E, DW5000 Accelerator double pedal, Ahead sticks, Presonus Firepod, Denon DN-HP1000 headphones, HP Pavilion DV9000 laptop running Drumkit from Hell Solo, Sonar Producer.

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      • #4
        Try that two-sided foam tape

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        • #5
          Originally posted by fritzmusic
          Here's my hang-up right now. I have a Gibraltar rack but it's old chrome and has seen too much road to justify grunging up this kit. I want to replace the mickey mouse right angle clamps on the stock Roland rack with the gibraltars because I like the look of the black curve rack with this kit. How would one go about bypassing those cable holes in the stock clamps without throwing more money at a wire harness that is already esablished as perfectly functional? Refer to "stock right angle clamp" photo below.
          The first thought that comes to my mind is pull the clamps off the rack, and "notch" the tubes themselves so that you can route the cables out of the "wall" of the tube rather than the end.

          Problems with this ideas that I can forsee...

          The notched ends will be structurally weaker so tightening the now clamps back on may "pinch" them, so reinforce inside each end with some pipe that fits snugly inside the existing tube for the length of the clamp.

          The second problem will be the sharp edge from the cut, but that's solvable with some epoxy and thin vinyl tubing. Split the tubing and use it around the cut edge affix with epoxy (hot glue might work too.)

          Now that I think about it, cutting the tube itself is going to be problematic with the cables inside it, so just cut carefully. I'd probably use a dremel with a cutting disc rather than a saw if I was working with the cables still inside the tube.

          ...This is where someone should step in with a better, easier idea.
          The drumkit: TD-9, SPD-S, TMC-6, PDX-8, PD-8(3), PD-7, CY-8(2), CY-5(2), Stinger P1, Stinger XL(2), FD-8, MDS-20, HP900PTW, 7ANA, S5BNP

          The other stuff: DV7, M-16DX, PM-3, UM-3G, UM-1G, PCR-A30

          FS: MDS-9, RMP-5, Pearl P-120 (click for details/pics)

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