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About time I showed my build

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  • About time I showed my build

    First of all, many thanks to everyone on the forum who has contributed with ideas, information, material resources, wiring diagrams etc.
    Before I took on this little project I did have concerns about how badly I would screw things up.

    But that never happened. Probably because I took the easy route in opting for a conversion using the Roland baskets. But it still wasn't all plain sailing.

    Well I managed to get two Yamaha Stage Custom 12” shells, and a 10” Mapex. Ideally they would all have been Yamaha but trying to find a 10” at the right price was not easy. So I settled on a horrible lime green Mapex Pro M tom. The plan was two 10” toms, 12” snare, 12” floor tom, and 12” bass drum.

    For the guts of the drums I was using the Roland baskets. I guessed from reading various posts at VDRUMS.COM it would make things pretty straightforward.

    I cut one of the 12” toms in half, along with the 10”. I planned on using a full 12”X9” shell for the bass drum. The bearing edges needed routing – the Yamaha comes with a 45 degree internal bevel. Nothing (or negligible bevel) on the outside of the shell. Originally, when the Roland basket was dropped in, the outer ‘downlip’ of the basket rim rested on the edge of the shell. I couldn’t get hold of a 60 degree router bit (unless I wanted to pay £75 from a pro tool shop) so I settled on a 78 degrees. Quite a sharp angle but just enough to get the bearing edge behind the outer lip and get the basket properly seated. I might revisit this and make it 45 degrees.

    Cutting the shells was something I was worried about in case I botched it. In the end it was okay. I got a set square, and positioned on the drum rim, marked the halfway point on the shell. I moved all around the drum bit by bit making a mark around the centre just a few mm apart. Then I got a flexible ruler and, bent it around the shell and drew a solid cut line. For the actual cutting I used a tenon saw (fine toothed saw) and first of all just made a gentle cut about 1 or 2 mm deep around the circumference of the shell. Then went around again and made the cut a bit deeper. And then again. After this I got my bigger hand saw and using the original cuts as a guide, cut right through the shells. Neat job! I don’t know what paint/lacquer they put on those Mapex shells but it didn’t half smell like burning plastic. Horrible!

    The Mapex shell was a pain in the arse. I ended up cutting a 45 degree outer bevel on that, and even with a sizeable notch for the Roland basket, it was still trying to rise up from the shell. I just couldn’t figure out what was causing it. In the end I just put the head on and tightened it down. The tension rods and hoop are now holding it all nicely together.

    Another thing with Mapex, is the rim mount system uses different lugs where the rim mount system is fitted – the lugs here have a protruding lip on the bottom of the lug. As I had already made up my mind to use the Yamaha mount system, I had to get a few replacement lugs from Mapex. Credit to them they sent them out free of charge.

    The other thing I had to modify was the basket. I didn’t want to add more holes to the shell by lowering the mount so I cut a hole out of the basket where it was fouling the mounting system nuts. This was more awkward on the 10” basket as the moulding sections are smaller and closer together. It was a case of selecting the part of the basket that was going to cause least possible structural problems. This meant repositioning and putting in a 2nd alignment notch for the new position. We live and learn!

    Another issue I had was that the standard stereo jack connector thread (the sort you get from Maplin/Radio Shack) was not long enough to go right through the shell, so I mounted the stereo chassis jacks in the base of the basket. Having spent an apprenticeship in a telephone exhange soldering no end of contacts to Strowger group selectors (Google it), I was only too aware of what a mess you can make when removing soldered wires. So anticipating some maintenance at some point in the future, I soldered some wire tails to the stereo jacks, and connected these to a small ‘chocolate block’ connector. The Piezo wires screw connected to the other side of the connector. So now the piezos and jack can be easily disconnected from other if needs be. The connecting block is held down by double-sided tape.

    For the bass drum I used a barrel jack socket which is fitted through the shell but past the bottom of the basket. Again I have used the old chocolate block connectors should future maintenance be necessary. Hardware for the bass drum was from Yamaha again – I used the bits the put on their Daxdad drum. A bit more pricey than I thought it would be, but the spurs are quite long and ideal for this size drum.

    Made up some leads, hooked the pads up and voila – edrums for my TD8!

    I wish had done it sooner.
    Attached Files

  • #2
    Lookin' good so far. I use the block connectors also, they are awesome for tweaking and easy trigger replacemant if ever needed.

    You going to leave the shells naked? I love the color and grain of the wood. A couple coats of tung oil and thoses babys would really pop.

    Comment


    • #3
      Cheers Sarge201.
      I was after a pinky/purple sparkle but the samples I have don't fit what I'm looking for. I am waiting for some more samples but I'm not holding my breath as I think most (if not all) glitter wraps are made by the same company.
      So for now, yep, it's staying 'naked'.

      Comment


      • #4
        Got to agree with Sarge here on the finish. That's a very professional looking build. Nice work

        Comment


        • #5
          Thanks. But it's nothing special really. Using the Roland baskets made it easy and ensures correct cone height - most important for triggering. And like I said, all the info to build the drums was garnered from here.

          Personally, I take my hat off to all the people here who come up with wonderful suspended cross-member designs. I don't think I would have the patience to tweak things if it didn't work.

          Comment


          • #6
            baskits

            can the roland baskits be bought seperatly?
            Pearl Mimic pro, A to E 7 piece Pearl Decade maple, ddrum Deccabons, Ddrum DDTi, UFO X-bar triggers, Real feel heads, Gibraltar rack, VH13, PD105 side snare, Roc-N-Soc,Tama Iron Cobra, Iron cobra high hat stand, Cobra clutch, Pearl throne thumper, Roland and Kit Toys cymbals, Roland KC 500, Promark

            Comment


            • #7
              Yes

              Originally posted by jammin777 View Post
              can the roland baskits be bought seperatly?
              Yes direct from Roland.
              WEBSITE - http://www.diamondelectronicdrums.com/
              YOUTUBE CHANNEL - http://www.youtube.com/channel/UCbVB...?feature=guide
              FACEBOOK me at ... https://www.facebook.com/photo.php?f...83235555050736
              :eek: ...
              Showcase 1 - http://vdrums.com/forum/album.php?albumid=253
              Showcase 2 - http://vdrums.com/forum/album.php?albumid=354

              Comment


              • #8
                Originally posted by daveybabes View Post
                Yes direct from Roland.
                hmm,,, i am afraid to ask how much?? any ideas??
                Pearl Mimic pro, A to E 7 piece Pearl Decade maple, ddrum Deccabons, Ddrum DDTi, UFO X-bar triggers, Real feel heads, Gibraltar rack, VH13, PD105 side snare, Roc-N-Soc,Tama Iron Cobra, Iron cobra high hat stand, Cobra clutch, Pearl throne thumper, Roland and Kit Toys cymbals, Roland KC 500, Promark

                Comment


                • #9
                  Uk?

                  In the UK a recent thread said they are £7 each, the cones are £4.80

                  Will have a look for that thread now

                  http://vdrums.com/forum/showthread.p...roland+baskets

                  There ya go ... I had cones off them a few weeks ago, these kind of things are listed as spares and not resaleable items so they are happy to deal with you direct and u can pay with a CC over the phone, i have the UK number if u r in the UK.
                  WEBSITE - http://www.diamondelectronicdrums.com/
                  YOUTUBE CHANNEL - http://www.youtube.com/channel/UCbVB...?feature=guide
                  FACEBOOK me at ... https://www.facebook.com/photo.php?f...83235555050736
                  :eek: ...
                  Showcase 1 - http://vdrums.com/forum/album.php?albumid=253
                  Showcase 2 - http://vdrums.com/forum/album.php?albumid=354

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    If you are interested I can email you a spreadsheet showing the component parts and prices. You simply add the number of the items you want and it works out the price. For UK users there is a VAT column included and a total including the VAT.

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                    • #11
                      £7 (seven!!) each for an entire basket???!!!!! Surely that is a typo an is meant to say £70.

                      Comment


                      • #12
                        I was also amazed as the basket sells for around $35 in Australia, and about $5 for the sensor plate. So the Brits are bagging bargains if those prices are correct...
                        . digitalDrummer
                        Review index

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                        • #13
                          Cost me less than £80 for the Roland parts to make 5 shells.

                          Comment


                          • #14
                            Is it really that cheap?
                            Roland Td-11KV, Alesis SamplePad, DW5000 pedal, Vater 7A sticks.

                            Comment


                            • #15
                              In that case, I'm going to enquire about prices on the 8" baskets for my 8" toms. I'm building eight of them and at those prices, I can save myself a whole lot of work and have a genuine Roland look for a fraction of the cost!

                              Comment

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