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Bakerboy's build begins...

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  • vhdrums
    replied
    Seeing how you used a Pearl Masters Custom as the donor kit just have encouraged my guilty desire to electronify a 70s Ludwig 3 pieces shell pack I'm currently restoring.

    Leave a comment:


  • New Tricks
    replied
    Originally posted by tivi View Post
    how do you mount the cone/trigger into this Strut? I see UFODrums using somekind of screw, anyone know where to get this screw with big head to mount the piezo/cone? thanks.


    There is a less complicated way do do this, and it's much lighter. An 8' length is maybe $15 at home depot. You do have to cut it and drill some holes but, come on. Didn't your Dads teach you anything manly

    1" aluminum angle with L brackets. You have a full 1" to stick the cone in place (double stick adhesive pads are provided with Quartz Percussion cones/piezos)

    Leave a comment:


  • tivi
    replied
    how do you mount the cone/trigger into this Strut? I see UFODrums using somekind of screw, anyone know where to get this screw with big head to mount the piezo/cone? thanks.

    Leave a comment:


  • bakerboy
    replied
    UPDATE:

    Well I have all of the drums/cymbals triggered and setup except for the hi-hat cymbal and control box. But as luck would have it, the day I get them all setup (yesterday)...my ShuttlePC is blue screening with stop errors. No new hardware has been introduced recently, so I'm not sure what the deal is. I didn't have much time to fool with it yesterday after getting the room cleaned out, the kit set-up, and all of the wires run back to the Trigger IO.

    So, I still don't know how they're triggering. But I'm gonna tackle that !#$%ing PC tonight and get it working again. I hope to have this whole thing working very shortly...

    Leave a comment:


  • sarge201
    replied
    Any updates? Hows the Trigger I/O working for you?

    Leave a comment:


  • bakerboy
    replied
    Originally posted by InAVat View Post
    Okay, I've consulted with multiple people privately, and none seem to have any idea what the nutspring is for.

    Bakerboy, could you possibly englighten us?

    From looking at the pictures, my theory is that the nutspring is there to allow the piezo platform assembly to be slid along the crossmember, while still applying enough pressure (via the spring) to keep it in place. Is that right, bakerboy?
    Yes, it allows you to slide the whole platform to wherever you want to position it on the crossmember...and then tighten it down there. We positioned mine dead center, which I assume is what you want.

    Leave a comment:


  • InAVat
    replied
    Okay, I've consulted with multiple people privately, and none seem to have any idea what the nutspring is for.

    Bakerboy, could you possibly englighten us?

    From looking at the pictures, my theory is that the nutspring is there to allow the piezo platform assembly to be slid along the crossmember, while still applying enough pressure (via the spring) to keep it in place. Is that right, bakerboy?

    Leave a comment:


  • mystic fred
    replied
    looks like an interesting build setup BB, but ensure the main trigger cone is isolated from vibrations coming through from the drum shell / cross bar - that is if you are planning to place a separate rim trigger onto the shell.

    Leave a comment:


  • Oldblindjim
    replied
    Nice

    Nice Jack. I've used them. I get them from all over the place now.
    One of those sources is Parts Express.
    http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/showd...number=092-084

    Leave a comment:


  • Gastric
    replied
    I like the nice locking jacks.

    Leave a comment:


  • bakerboy
    replied
    Originally posted by sarge201 View Post
    One thing I found out also is put a drop of loctite on the wing nut once you have the height dialed in or that bad boy will start backing off with vibrations. That will cause a lot of headaches with rattles and bad triggering.
    That's a good suggestion. Thank you.

    Here are a few more pics of the 12" tom...

    Close-up of the TRS jack installed in the side of the shell and soldered to the trigger


    Testing the trigger with the Alesis Trigger IO


    View of the trigger wire soldered to the TRS jack


    My friend tested it and said that it's triggering really responsively. Once we have them all wired up and working, I'm sure I'll have to play with the Trigger IO parameters to trigger best for my playing style.

    More to come...

    Leave a comment:


  • sarge201
    replied
    One thing I found out also is put a drop of loctite on the wing nut once you have the height dialed in or that bad boy will start backing off with vibrations. That will cause a lot of headaches with rattles and bad triggering.

    Leave a comment:


  • InAVat
    replied
    What's the reason for the nut spring? Is it simply to allow the piezo/cone platform to be easily adjustable without having to unscrew anything? If so, isn't there a chance that the platform will slide down the channel, especially on drums that are set up at an angle?

    Leave a comment:


  • Gastric
    replied
    Like OBJim said try rotating the corner braces 180 degrees then mounting the cross bar on top of them. Though that may cause the reverse problem of not being able to LOWER the cone enough. Heh, this is basically the same problem I had. Damn things were either too far or too close to the head.

    Question: what kind of isolation is attempted with those cross bars? None at all? I'm just curious. And I'd be curious to see what kind of crosstalk you end up having (if any at all) between your cymbals and the toms since they appear to share common hardware.

    Just to help you out based on my recent DYI:

    * Line up the cross bars with wherever you're going to place the jack so the bar is right over the jack hole, if possible. Gives your wires a cleaner line to the jack without having to see a dangly wire or sticking 10" of wire against the shell.
    * Once you have one tom figured out the install should be identicall for the rest assuming they're from a matched set. But the snare and kick are likely different. So measure those separate before install to see how to best orientate the corner braces and cross bar so the cone will reach the proper height before you screw them in. That way you don't have to re-do the whole thing after you think you're done with the install.

    Not a ding necessarily but I would have thouht UFO would have provided all the hardware necessary to install their bracing successfully in any install. Longer lug screws, and adjustable platform that included enough adjustment for all installs, etc. Shouldn't be that hard to include a few sets of common lug screws (I'm assuming they're pretty common anyway), and what not. And would save you headache and hassle.

    Leave a comment:


  • Oldblindjim
    replied
    Originally posted by bakerboy View Post
    2. When the eBridge was finally screwed into place...even with the middle platform adjusted up as far as it would go, there still was about a half inch left before the tip of the cone cleared the bearing edge. So Craig ended up using 8 fender washers on top of the existing platform to raise it high enough to where the foam cone tip needed to be...
    How about mounting the right angled plates underneath the strut. Combine that with large tall rubber feet, longer screws and binding nuts to raise the strut up towards the head. Suppliers like PartsExpress sells Isolation feet. A bit more pricey but good for isolation and as a raiser. Or just thick hard rubber pads.

    OB Jim

    Leave a comment:

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