Question on re-using rims from acoustic heads

[SuperPuss]

A couple of days ago, I picked up a set of TAMA mesh heads which includes 12", 13", 14", 16" and 22" sizes.
My initial plan was to use the 13" and 14" heads for my Pearl A toms (which I have done with the 13") and use the 22" to make a mesh gong. However, upon looking at the 22" head, I have enough material there to use for all three of my Roto's.
My question is, has anyone re-used the rims from acoustic heads to mount the mesh material and if so, what method did you used to take the rim apart, remove the plastic heads and re-assemble it with the mesh?

[lidrummer]

Hey SP,

I've never done it but this guy has and he has been gracious enough to post a very comprehensive tutorial.

http://www.edrums.info/

lidrummer

[richp123]

Hi, SP: I've been working on converting my own rotos now, off and on as time permits, for the last couple of months. I used the same method as Mike describes in the link he's kindly posted below to make my own heads. I made a slight modification though, in that I used a single layer of pet screen, and sewed it up using 25lb. monofilament fishing line. I tried a double layer, but it's just too thick. This method works very well, and I can crank the heads to regular A-head tension with no issues.

My big caveat is that I haven't really played them other than mounting them up on a rack and pounding away for half an hour or so with nylon tip 7A's to see if they'd let go or break. They seem to be very tough - and very quiet. After a first bit of stretching out, they seem to have retained their tensioning after sitting for days. The next step is fitting the piezos and doing the module work.

If you do use Mike's method, be patient. The first one might need to be re-done after you get the hang of it. So far, I've done a 6, 8, 10, and two 12's this way. I seem to be able to get them nice and flat now. My wife, bless her black heart, is suggesting I join the church quilting ladies and learn a few new stitches.

[BeyondStupidity]

I just did it just like the link lidrummer posted except i didnt sew it. I just tucked the mesh in the bearing edge of drum and tightened the lugs down tight. it works good for me so far.

-jos

[lidrummer]

SP,

As a follow-on, when I did my Remo conversion, since standard size heads didn't work, I ended up using 3/16" hard plastic dishwasher tubing for the "rim" of the head.

1. Cut it to length (circumference) of the head size.
2. Cut a rectangle of window screen at least twice the diameter of the head in one direction and a little bigger than the diameter in the other direction.
3. Fold it in half along the long length.
4. Put the tubing inside (between the two halves of the fold).
5. Sew around the tubing looping between the two halves of screen. I used kitchen twine since I didn't have any fishing line lying around and it seemed to hold pretty good.

Hope this helps,
lidrummer

[richp123]

Referring back to SP's original post, a coupl'a things come to mind:

1) Since SP is converting Rototoms, stock head sizes are fine. Using the plastic tubing as lidrummer did (or 1/4" copper tubing as suggested elsewhere on this site) is a great way to create unavailable or hard-to-find size heads.

2) B-Stu's method may work with a regular drum, but (being the lazy so-and-so that I am ), I tried making a non-sewn head for the roto, and it flat out didn't work. Again, since we're talkin' rotos here, there is no shell to help with 'holding' the mesh. The mesh just couldn't get enough friction from the parts it touched to stay put, and it was sloppy and wouldn't maintain any kind of tension. Having said this, though, I could see how a second 'placed' layer over the first sewn layer could be secure enough. This is how Mike does it with regular window screen in his tutorial. I might find that the pet screen I'm using is too open a weave to work with the contact foam, but I don't know yet. If it is too open, I'll have to consider placing a non-sewn layer over the sewn one to fill the gaps, so-to-speak.

3) SP, I wouldn't go cutting up that 22" head just yet. Since you already have the stock heads from the rotos, and they are stock sizes and easily replaced (at least I hope they are in OZ), try these with some store-bought screening first. I bought a 36in. x 8ft. roll of pet screen for under $40, and I've got tons of material left for replacements if required. If you're not satisfied, I can't see how chopping up the 22 will help - you'd still have to attach the scavenged screening to the butchered rims somehow, and you'll be out a 22".

It all comes down to weighing the costs, time required, effort needed and any other criteria you might have against the convenience of store-bought. As you've mentioned in other posts, there are issues with shipping costs and stuff taking forever to get there, so I'm sure this comes into play, too. In my case, I now know how to do something I didn't know how to do before. As any DIY'er will agree; that's something you can't put a price on.

Cheers!

[SuperPuss]

Guys, this is why I love this forum so much!! Your suggestions, experience and ideas are priceless. Thank you everyone

Rich, I am with you on the issue of cutting up my 22". I keep looking at it and seeing the core of my new dual zone gong. It even fits perfectly at the back of my cage and has a nice big TAMA logo on it
These Tama's are also quite transparent which means I can mount it on something that has a big scan of a real gong for a much more authentic look.

I guess after doing my 13" pearl DIY with the Tama head and feeling how good it is to play, I just started to get impatient for mesh on my roto's!!
As they are now, they are perfectly playable and very responsive with my temporary self adhesive rubber add-ons. I might play around with some of the other suggestions here and if that fails, just go with the Pintechs (which are expensive once shipped and will take a few weeks to get here).

[richp123]

A gong, huh? Here's what I call 'The Griswald Solution':

http://www.amazon.com/Flexible-Flyer-826-Steel-Saucer/dp/B0006N8WYM

It's already pre-fitted with mounting hardware, pre-drilled for jacks and (assumedly) supports multi-zone implementation on your Roland modules.

Happy Gong-ing.

[SuperPuss]

Hey, now that's some great food for thought, Rich