Splitter for Dual Piezo inputs AKA SPD-30, TD-9,11,12,15,20,30,50 Aux/Tom splitter

[JmanWord]

First Off: The TD-9, TD-11, TD-12, TD-15, TD-20/TD-20X and TD-30 modules have additional dual Piezo type inputs besides just the snare input. All Four of the SPD-30 inputs are dual Piezo type inputs. This DIY splitter works for splitting dual piezo inputs so 2 single piezo pads can be used for one dual piezo input.
(dual piezo pads like PD-85/105/125 .... or piezo rim switch pads like CY-8/14C and others can be used but the rim zone on those pads will be dead).
The inputs besides the snare input which are dual piezo type on the TD-9/12/20 are; all Tom and all Aux. inputs.
When using this splitter ... if both pads that are connected are hit at the exact same instant only one pad will sound.


OK... with my upcoming Lectroban project... I need 2 splitters for a total of 4 lectrobans on my TD-20 module. I will be using a tom input and an auxiliary input... both inputs are dual piezo types. So since I had to build these I thought I would do a photo step by step as a possible aid to anyone wanting to build one of these great little tools.

We'll call this the Aux. Splitter 10 Step Program:
First I included the Wiring diagram that has already been posted many times. It is the attachment on this post.

I also have now included a simple picture showing the TRS Plug with the resistor added and the colored lines drawn to illistrate the wiring between the Stereo plug and the 2 Mono jacks. Obviously drawing is not my strong point

I did not design this splitter. This splitter was former forum member feefer's original idea.... and a very good one, a very useful tool for Piezo/Piezo inputs on the modules mentioned....

[JmanWord]

Next 5 Pics:
1. The components laid out that will be needed. 100KOhm resistor, Male TRS Plug, 2 Female TS(Mono) jacks, 22 gauge speaker wire, Solder, Shrink Wrap, El. tape
2. Solder the resistor between tip and ring posts on the TRS plug.
3. Put shrink wrap on the wire....slide it back before soldering, this way you can slide it over your solder joints later. Twist the 2 wires together that go to the sleeve, one from each speaker wire pair.
4. Solder the TIP, RING, and SLEEVE wires to the Plug.
5. Heat the small shrink tubing to cover the solder joints. Then apply a larger shrink tube over each pair of wires going to the 2 mono jacks(electric tape could be used... shrink wrap is sturdier and more professional though).

[JmanWord]

6. Shrink tubing after being applied/heated... shrink tubing complete.
7. Prepare to wire the mono jacks. Place the plastic jack covers on first. Slide them back out of the way for soldering.
8. Wire/Solder each jack the same: corresponding to the wires on the Male plug. Head jack = Tip wire from TRS Plug to tip post of mono jack. Sleeve wire from plug to Sleeve of Mono jack. Rim jack = Rim wire from TRS Plug to tip post of mono jack. Sleeve wire from plug to Sleeve of Mono jack.
9. Apply a small amount of electrical tape between the sleeve and tip connectors of the Mono jacks to prevent crosswire shorting.
10. Splitter is now put together and Labeled for Head and Rim Sides.

This should enable those of you suffering from GAS to add that one more pad you have been wanting.... J

[Rain Man]

Splitter - Box version

Building on this idea, I made a box version of this. I used jacks, wire and project boxes from Radio Shack. I ordered the 100K resistor online, but I found some recently at my Radio Shack, so I think RS may be hit and miss with that.

Anyway, this design allows the user to benefit from being able to run a trs cable from the output to a desired location (maybe towards the far end of the kit) and then run 2 mono chords to the single zone pads that you are splitting in the input.

The two pics here show the splitter box open, wired, and soldered with the resistor going from tip to tip of the 2 mono jacks.



This next pic shows the splitter box closed and labeled for head input, rim input and TRS cable that goes to your dual piezzo input on your module.


ENJOY!

[JmanWord]

Settings:
I can not give a universal setting that will perfectly adjust the response between these two triggers for you. There are many different pad types and who knows what variety of DIY triggers have been built on this forum alone!
I will post my settings that I am using for 2 single zone splash cymbals I have built, and 2 single zone Moos (real cowbell triggers). Just by the difference of the trigger parameters between these 2 types of trigger pads... you can see there is quite a variance of trigger parameters according to what trigger pads are being used. Beyond that: If you can't get things tuned in ... I suggest asking a question in the DIY forum .... DIY is not for everyone, if you DIY you will have to get up to speed on trigger parameters and how they apply!

2 DIY splash with splitter:

Pad type: PD-105
Sensitivity: 3 Threshhold: 8 Curve: Linear
Scan: 2.0 Retrig Cncl: 6 Mask Time: 6
Rim Gain: 3.1 Rimshot Adj.: 2.8

2 Moos with splitter:

Pad type: PD-125
Sensitivity: 5 Threshhold: 5 Curve: Linear
Scan: 2.0 Retrig Cncl: 4 Mask Time: 6
Rim Gain: 1.3 Rimshot Adj.: 2.0

[JmanWord]

Dual Piezo Splitter: Quick Trigger Parameter Set-up

Nothing special... but just a little explanation in my own words of my set up for the Dual Piezo Trigger Splitter.

How I adjust the settings... Start with PD-125 for the pad type. For TD-50 use PDX-8 as the pad type: I haven't tried the splitter with the TD-30, but with the TD-50 you must use PDX-8 as the pad type. Work on the pad of the splitter which is triggering the Head of the input first ... Always set your head settings first on Dual Piezo pads... because the rim gain is affected by the basic sensitivity set on your head.

BASICS
Starting with the pad connected to the Head side of the splitter.

Sensitivity: Set the Sensitivity so that your hardest hits (or I like to make it my Almost Hardest Hits) Peak the velocity meter...If you peak your velocity meter on every average hit ... lower the sensitivity .... that is where your dynamics come in.

Threshold:Then check your Threshold ... very lightly play the head... set the threshold up a little at a time until your lightest hits(like you would hit a light drum roll) No Longer are sensed .... Now Lower the threshold just enough so that your lightest hits are sensed ... That helps to keep your drum sensitive ... but less subject to false triggering or crosstalk. On a snare that is not attached to the rack I usually set threshold to 0 or 2 .... higher on toms.

ADVANCED Trigger settings
Now...Rimshot Adjust and Rim Gain are your key adjustments for the pad connected to the Rim side of the splitter

Rimshot Adjust: If you set Rimshot adjust to 0 you will find that you get no rim sound... if you hit the rim pad it will trigger the head sound... Raise the rimshot adjust all the way up and you will get inconsistent response on the Head pad... Somewhere between 1.5 and 4 will give you the right response on most pads... The most important thing is to get Only head sounds whenever you hit the head pad and Only rim sounds when striking the rim pad... Find the best result for your rim by raising rimshot adjust from 0 until your rim pad response is sufficient without triggering head sounds.

Head/Rim Adjust
On Newer Modules Like the TD-30 and TD-50 the setting for adjusting the Rimshot vs Head is called Head/Rim Adjust. This is the setting you would be adjusting to get the proper response for the two pads connected to the splitter. It is different than explained for Rimshot Adjust .... basically Opposite: The Higher the Value the lower the sensitivity of the pad connected to the Rim Side. So you will need to adjust this so you get the correct response from both pads. If you are getting Rim pad sounds intermittently when striking the Head pad Raise the value. If you are getting Head sounds when playing the Rim pad Lower the value.

Rim Gain: This is similar to the Sensitivity setting. On the Rim pad... Adjust the Rim Gain so that the pad's velocity works similar to the head pad. Your hardest, or harder hits should just peak the velocity meter.

OK now ... if necessary ... fine tuning the head pad response...

Scan time ... this should be raised from factory default if the head pad response is inconsistent on equal velocity hits ... If you hit it at the same velocity several times and the velocity meter is all over the place ... loud one hit, soft the next.... raise the scan time.

Retrig Cancel and Mask time ... raise these if a single strike produces double triggering. Mask Time is most useful for Kick triggers. Not only can you control errant double triggering this way.... mask time can be used on the kick drum to correct extra unintentional beater bounce.

Now that we have the settings down ... a little comment....

The rim pad is not going to respond as well as the head pad... just the nature of the beast .. The splitter is very useful for obtaining your objective .... Adding that one extra sound when your inputs are full!!! Certain things are just a better use ... for example Splash cymbals, Chinas, Crashes, Cowbells... Things that you will normally be hitting and not doing intricate Rolls on ...
I have my 4 Lectrobans split this way ... but the rim pads are not quite as perfect on buzz rolls ... I know it .... don't expect it ... and don't use em that way...

Hey ..... Hope it helps.... J

[JmanWord]

I thought I would add a link here for those that don't care to do the DIY method. A forum member (Kentley) builds these and sells them at a reasonable price IMO. Here is a link to that website:
http://www.drumsplitters.com/