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Pictorial tutorial: DIY ATV/Roland 3-zone cymbal-to-Yamaha 3-Zone adapter cable

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  • Pictorial tutorial: DIY ATV/Roland 3-zone cymbal-to-Yamaha 3-Zone adapter cable

    Hi everyone,

    I'm using eDRUMin's on my kit and my ATV cymbals are all 3-zone. When planning out my kit and researching my options, I learned from reading the eDRUMin Let's Talk About It topic that eDRUMin supports Yamaha 3-zone cymbals, which put all 3 wired signals (bow piezo, plus edge and cup switches) onto a single TRS cable. Also that it should be possible to "convert" an ATV or Roland 3-Zone Ride cymbal to Yamaha 3-zone with a special Y-adapter cable.

    This interested me since for a number of reasons I won't get into here, I am trying to keep my eDRUMin unit count as low as possible. I planned on using all 3 zones on most of my cymbals but didn't want to tie up 2 eDRUMin ports per cymbal doing that if I didn't have to. With a drum set coming I needed to know if I was going to need to buy more eDRUMin's or not and long story short, I ended up making a cable myself. It worked. So I have tested these adapter cables myself with my ATV cymbals. Bell and Edge hits register as such, choke/mute works, and of course the bow works.

    To help others needing the same type of conversion and who are up for making their own adapter cables but maybe a little unclear on some of the details (as I was at first) -- I'm providing a detailed tutorial here. I took a lot of pictures while making several adapter cables for my kit so that the tutorial could be well-illustrated.

    I will try to maintain and update this tutorial as I can, any constructive suggestions welcome.

    Q & A

    What Is This Adapter Cable Useful For?
    This adapter cable will adapt the the two separate (bell/cup and edge) TRS jacks of an ATV artist cymbal (all ATV artist cymbals are 3-zone), 3-zone Roland ride cymbal, or other 3-zone cymbal with exactly the same features and wired exactly the same way as a Roland 3-zone Ride cymbal such as a CY-15R to a Yamaha-style 3-zone Cymbal output on a SINGLE TRS output.

    Why Would I Want to do That?
    So you can get 3 zones *wired* to your eDRUMin using only ONE input instead of having to burn two inputs.

    It should also let you use an ATV or Roland 3-zone cymbal on a module or other device that only supports Yamaha cymbals, in theory.

    How Do I Use It?
    (Assuming you make yours exactly as I describe here -- If you don't, well, I don't know)
    1. Plug the male plug with the Blue boot into the Cup / Bell jack of your 3-zone cymbal
    2. Plug the male plug with the Gray boot into the Edge jack of your 3-zone cymbal
    3. Connect a regular "stereo"/TRS cable to the female output jack, and the other end to one of the 4 pad inputs your eDRUMin (or in theory, anything else you'd like to be able to plug one of these types of cymbals into that wants a Yamaha 3-zone cymbal.)
    4. In the eDRUMin control app, set the Pad Type for that input to Yamaha 3-Zone Cymbal
    5. Enjoy getting one of your inputs back.

    Where Can I Just Buy These Already Made?
    That's a really great question, I kinda started off there too. Now I'm here.

    Making one of these adapter cables, especially with Neutrik connectors, will cost you some money and time and WILL be some hassle. This is not for everybody -- especially if you don't have the soldering tools or experience, etc. Depending how busy they are, Angr77 (Anders) from Zourman Drums or Dave at Diamond Electronic Drums may be able to make you these cables if you are just looking to buy some already made - please contact one of them if you want somebody to make you some professionally.

    Please don't ask me to make you any of these cables. I really don't have time, but this tutorial should give anyone good with a soldering iron what they need to know to build them. You might show it to a guitar tech at a music store or somewhere if you come up short.

    Also you should really consider your plan if you need more than a couple of these. By the time you buy 4 of these already made (or buy the parts to make 4 even if you already have all the tools etc) - you may be better off to just buy another eDRUMin to get 4 more ports.

    Me, I will be happier adapting more cymbals and waiting to buy more eDRUMin's until I run out of inputs on the 4 I have.

    CIRCUIT DESIGN INFO

    First let's take a look at what how each type of cymbal is wired, then we'll point out the differences so we can understand how to make ATV / Roland 3-zone cymbals "look like" a Yamaha 3-zone cymbal to the device you plug it into.

    ATV and Roland 3-zone Ride Cymbals

    Edge and Bell switches are both connected to separate Ring outputs on separate jacks. Both Tip outputs connect to the (same) Bow Piezo, with a possible (but likely insignificant) "polarity" difference between Edge and Bell Tip outputs. Sleeve is ground on each.


    Yamaha 3-Zone Cymbal

    One output jack. Edge and Bell switches are both connected to the same Ring output, with a 10KOhm resistor in series with the Edge switch. The Bow piezo is connected to the Tip output, same as with the ATV/Roland circuit. Sleeve is ground, same as ATV/Roland.

    The Differences
    1. Only one output jack on the cymbal

    2. BOTH switches are wired to the output jack's Ring terminal, like a Y in the road -- the Bell/Cup switch is connected straight to the ring terminal, but there is a 10KOhm resistor between the Edge switch and the ring terminal.

    How to Adapt The Connection
    Just looking at the Yamaha 3-zone Yamaha cymbal diagram above should tell us that Yamaha 3-zone cymbal compatible devices expect to find the Bow piezo on the tip of the cymbal's output jack, and find both Edge and Cup switches on the ring terminal, with a 10Kohm resistor in front of the Edge switch.

    So at the end of the day, all we really need to do is make a "Y" cable using two 3-conductor pieces of cable, with two male ATV/Roland input plugs and one Yamaha output jack, such that:
    • All 3 wires (Tip, Ring, Sleeve) are soldered/connected to their respective terminals on male plug ends of both input cables
    • The Tip wire from only ONE of the two cables is connected to the Tip terminal at the "output" jack end. DO NOT connect both cables' Tip wires to the output jack's Tip terminal! I connected the Tip wire from the Edge cable, if it matters. Anders from Zourman Drums also notes that the other Tip wire is useful as a spare if the connected tip wire breaks after years of use. You will only need to switch which one is connected to the output jack's Tip terminal.
    • Sleeve wires from both cables connected (soldered) to the Sleeve terminal of output jack
    • Ring wire of one cable (the "Edge" cable) has a 10Kohm resistor wired in series with the cable.
    • Ring wire of other cable (the "Bell/Cup" cable) is straight through to the ring terminal of the female jack.

    VARIATIONS OF ADAPTER / CONVERSION

    VARIATION A - SINGLE YAM-STYLE 3-ZONE OUTPUT JACK ON CYMBAL - NO ADAPTER CABLE

    If you normally trigger up your own cymbals with the exact same features and wired exactly the same way as an ATV cymbal or a Roland 3-Zone Ride (ie, CY-15R) but want to do the conversion internally inside the circuit box instead with no adapter cable needed, the steps below really SHOULD work just as well as adapting it externally with a cable. We're basically just going to take those leads you would normally connect to two jacks and follow the 3-zone Yamaha wiring diagram above.

    User should keep in mind, once the cymbal output is wired this way, your bell and edge signals will probably only work well (or at all) with devices that are compatible with Yamaha 3-zone cymbals -- because you're basically turning your cymbal into one.

    1. Connect the bow piezo to the Tip terminal of the output jack
    2. Connect the Bell/Cup Ring lead directly to ring terminal of output jack.
    3. Wire the Edge Ring lead in series to a quality 1/8 watt (or whatever watt) 10Kohm resistor, then wire the other end of the resistor to the output jack's ring terminal. Any circuit design equivalent method that puts the 10KOhm resistor in series between the ring lead of the output jack and the Edge switch is fine.
    4. Wire the Sleeve/ground lead(s) to Sleeve terminal of the output jack

    This is untested as of yet, but I am pretty confident it will work and hope I'll have feedback confirming that soon.


    VARIATION B - SWITCHABLE OUTPUT BETWEEN YAM AND ATV/ROLAND 3-ZONE OUTPUT MODE
    Purely theoretical at this point. This might be the smarter option if you are going to build the cymbal with the "adapter" built in vs. relying on an external adapter cable -- then you have options later if you want to switch to a different module or TMI solution later that doesn't support Yam 3-Zone cymbals and still be able to use the cymbal on it....

    This would be a more complex circuit, but it should definitely be possible to put a switch in there to make the 3-zone output mode of a cymbal selectable between Yamaha mode (3 zone on a single output jacks) or ATV/Roland mode (3 zones with edge and cup/bell switches split across 2 output jacks).

    ADAPTER CABLE TUTORIAL
    It is assumed you are comfortable doing your own soldering work and for the most part have what you need already.

    PRELIMINARY INFO
    First some basic info for the pictures you will see:

    Color Codes - Wiring
    (feel free to come up with your own, whatever blows your skirt, but this is what you will see in my pictures based on Belden 8451 wire I'm using)
    red = ring
    black = tip
    shield/uninsulated = sleeve

    Wire Prep
    Outer cable sheath removal length at each end, wire insulation strip length, etc. are based on Neutrik's assembly instructions, modified/customized by need to insert a small-size 10Kohm resistor on the ring lead.

    You can find Neutrik's assembly instructions for the connectors used in this tutorial in the Downloads section of product detail pages here:
    NP3RX Male TRS Right Angle Plug: https://www.neutrik.com/en/product/np3rx
    NJ3FC6 Female TRS Jack: https://www.neutrik.com/en/product/nj3fc6


    Cable Colors (named after color of male plug BPX-x boots I used, adjust accordingly if you pick different BPX boot colors)
    "Gray" cable = Edge cable - this one gets the 10KOhm resistor somewhere on the ring wire, and I wired this cable's tip lead to the output jack
    "Blue" cable = Cup/Bell cable - on this one the ring lead connects straight to the ring terminal on the output jack. Tip lead not connected at male end but not connected at output jack end. For whatever goofy reason (no idea why) "Blue Bell" came to mind as a mnemonic to remember which cable to plug into the Bell/Cup jack.

    Location of the 10K Resistor
    Anders from Zourman Drums recommends wiring the resistor in on the male end of the cable rather than the output jack end to avoid the "traffic jam" of 2 cables' wires coming together at the output jack, which does make sense, however the pictures and notes included in this tutorial reflect my choice to wire the resistor in at the output jack end.

    Either is equally correct. Just make sure the resistor is only in series with the Edge cable's ring lead, not the Bell/Cup ring lead.



    PARTS LIST - per adapter cable
    3-conductor mic wire (2 conductors plus shield/sleeve) - I used Belden 8451 which is quite small diameter but whatever you prefer
    (2) Neutrik NP3RX - 3-conductor right angle 1/4" male phone TRS plug (or suitable equivalent)
    (1) Neutrik NJ3FC6 - 3-conductor 1/4" female phone TRS jack with lock (or suitable equiv)
    (1) Neutrik BPX-# different colored strain relief boot for one of the two NP3RX's so you can tell them apart. All NP3RX's come with a dark gray one in the pack. I used BPX-6 - blue in color - see https://www.neutrik.com/en/product/bpx for color options. Many suppliers sell these individually. Warning - if you pay more than $1 apiece for these you are really being gouged, I paid $0.63 each buying 12 of them.
    (1) 1/8 watt 10Kohm resistor, metal-film axial through-hole resistor. I used 1% tolerance for the final adapters I made. Still very cheap to buy a strip of them.
    3mm heatshrink tubing, 3X shrink factor with heat-melt adhesive, 1" minimum per adapter cable
    6mm heatshrink tubing, 3X shrink factor with heat-melt adhesive, 3" minimum per adapter cable




    PICTURES AND NOTES

    01/28 - tinned wires for male end, ready to solder.



    02/28 - fresh NP3RX male plug - before tinning



    03/28 - Tinned sleeve (top), ring (middle), and tip (bottom)



    04/28 - Connect all three wires on the male end (do this on both cables). Don't be hatin' on my soldering work -- it may not be pretty but it works... Strain relief collar just for illustration, not where it goes yet



    05/28 - strain relief collar fully in place. Keep it there when you start sliding the back half of the connector in place (next pic)



    06/28 - slide the back half of the connector into place. You want to make sure the strain relief collar/chuck stays in place and the cable stays more or less centered in the opening in the back of the collar.



    07/28 - back half of NP3RX male plug now fully in place, it should "lock" and not slide back any farther if the little rails are engaged properly. Try to keep this in place for next step.



    08/28 - Now slide the bottom cable strain relief boot up against the plug housing, making sure the cable is still centered in the internal strain relief collar chuck. Then carefully screw the boot into the housing, keeping a good grip and tightening the boot into the housing til you can't turn it anymore. This will also cause the 3 sections of the internal strain relief chuck to grab onto the insulation around the wires so you have strain relief of the soldered wire connections.



    09/28 - 2 male ends prepared - a Bell/Cup cable (blue boot) and an Edge cable (gray boot) These are wired exactly the same on the male ends we've made here, the difference between them will come when we connect both to the output jack.


    *CONTINUED IN POST 2*
    Last edited by RetroRambler; 06-14-20, 06:44 AM.
    My Diamond E-Drums Kit | ATV cymbals | Gibraltar HW | 4x eDRUMin | RME HDSPe RayDAT | Superior Drummer 3 + Hansa | Reaper x64 DAW

  • #2

    10/28 - Using wire stripper set to depth that only cuts through outer insulation of all our male connector cables at roughly 0.7" of leads exposed



    11/28 - separated into blue and gray since we want one of each per adapter cable



    12/28 - This is the gray booted male connector cable, we are cutting back the length of the red/ring lead to allow a 1/8 ohm 10KOhm resistor to be soldered on and end up somewhere around same length of ring wire + resistor to the terminals on the NJ3FC6 female/output jack



    13/28 - holding the lead in the "crimper" section of my needlenose to keep the red wire from pulling through the cable as I strip the insulation back with a 22 gauge wire stripper.



    14/28 - (disregard the resistor you see in this pic, not supposed to be there yet, hehe). Make sure you slide ALL the necessay "back" parts of the female connector onto the cable (boot and metal housing), before you start soldering wires to terminals. There are also 2 pieces of 6mm 3X shrink factor heatstink tubing (with heat-melt adhesive) ahead of the housing in this picture with the longer piece (approx .9" - 1") behind the shorter one (approx .7"). Purpose of this is to provide some additional thickness, *roundness* and *protection* to what the internal strain relief collar/chuck (that black piece sitting on the counter next to needlenose pliers) will grab onto. 2 pieces of heatshrink to get that much extra thickness/protection. The 2nd piece will - with a lot of resistance - slide over the first after we shrink it down with the heat gun, and this will also give us something to tuck that extra tip lead under to keep it out of the way (under the 2nd piece of heatstink). NOTE: This was my first one. After this one I realized I could also use another piece of the 6mm heatstink tubing (about 1" long) about halfway down the length of the cable to help keep the two connectors more together -- so if you agree this is a good idea, you'll actually want to slide that first piece of heatstink tubing over the wires before you even put the bottom cable boot on (there isn't one in this picture, but I did it on later ones I made as you'll see in final picture).



    15/28 - preparing wires - note, the EDGE connector's cable is the one with the short red lead and exposed tip lead. The BELL / CUP cable's tip lead will not be connected - this is why it is folded back. It is not necessary to connect both cables' tip leads to the NJ3FC6 and the original instructions I saw for making one of these adapter cables says connect one or the other, it did not say both as it did say for the sleeve leads. (PS: both tip cables' tip leads have the same bow piezo connection on them anyway, according to the Roland 3-zone ride wiring diagrams I studied)



    16/28 - preparing to solder 1/8 Watt 10 KOhm (10 kiloohm) resistor onto the gray/EDGE cable's ring lead. Notice we are clipping the resistor wire VERY close to the resistor itself on the side we will solder to the wire, as we do not want the resistor "sticking out" past the end of the other wires in the cable.



    17/28 - resistor soldered on. The lead on the other side is deliberately long, it gives you something to grab with the needlenose when you are soldering the resistor to the ring wire, and also gives you something to stick through the hole in the ring terminal on the NJ3FC6 (female output jack). Both cables' sleeve wires are twisted together and and should be tinned together since we want both connected to sleeve of NJ3FC6.



    18/28 - Another pic of the resistor soldered to the EDGE/Gray cable's ring lead - isn't it pretty? Actually this pic is another reminder that you should REALLY have all of that other stuff slid onto your pair of male cables by now -- and before you go ANY FARTHER --- check and make sure --- or you are going to regret soldering wires to the NJ3FC6 terminal or even using the heat gun on the heat shrink tubing!!!!



    19/28 - 3mm heatshrink tubing placed over resistor (and already shrunk down with heat gun). Cut the length of the heatshrink tubing short enough that it doesn't protrude past length of the other wire leads.


    *CONTINUED IN POST 3*
    Last edited by RetroRambler; 06-08-20, 10:07 PM.
    My Diamond E-Drums Kit | ATV cymbals | Gibraltar HW | 4x eDRUMin | RME HDSPe RayDAT | Superior Drummer 3 + Hansa | Reaper x64 DAW

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    • #3

      20/28 - resistor wire from Edge/Gray cable pulled through ring terminal lead in NJ3FC6 female connector, ring lead from Bell/Cup/Blue cable brought close to ring terminal. Both of these will be soldered to the ring terminal of the NJ3FC6. Tip lead (black wire) is already soldered down, so is the sleeve combo (not well visible in this pic). 20-20 Hindsight TIP: After this one I realized, if you're going to do it this way, you should feed the long resistor wire through the ring terminal first - BEFORE soldering the tip and shield leads to their terminals -- it will be easier to deal with the extra length of the resistor wire that way. Then you can solder leads to the terminals in whatever order you prefer.



      21/28 - both ring leads soldered to the ring terminal of NJ3FC6 female output jack (bell/cup ring lead straight to the ring terminal, edge ring lead in series with the 10K 1/8 ohm resistor). Extra resistor wire length snipped off. The extra tip lead bent back will be prettied up later when we do our heatstink work.



      22/28 - sliding first piece of heatstink into position - sticking out AHEAD of the end of each cable's insulation!!! Then we'll come with the heat gun and shrink 'er down. Then we'll slide the 2nd piece up, tuck the Bell/Cup/Blue cable's extra tip lead between the 2 heatshrink pieces and shrink the 2nd piece down. This will keep the conductor at the end of the extra tip lead from touching anything that could cause us any problems too.



      23/28 - 2nd piece of heatshrink tubing shrunk down over the extra tip lead, so wires are pretty nice and neat now, and we have plenty of outer insulation around our pair of cables for the internal strain relief chuck collar to bite into now.



      24/28 - Internal strain relief collar "snapped over" our cable pair now. You can also see one of the "teeth" that will bite into the pair of cables on the right side of the cable pair in this picture. The collar is split down the length in one place so you can put it on after the soldering work.



      25/28 - Internal strain relief collar moved into correct final position. Note, we are looking at the sleeve lead terminal here, it is the only one that exposes the solder joint through the strain relief (OK since it's the ground connection). This is also where the screw that secures the housing to the jack screws into (not seen well in this picture, poor lighting). Note that you will very likely have to forcibly spread the back 3 teeth-bearing "tail fingers" of the strain relief collar chuck apart to be able to get the collar fully into place like this, and get it to "center up" the cable pair well for good strain relief when you tighten the bottom boot into the housing.



      26/28 - NJ3FC6 Jack housing slid into final position, fully forward with no gap between rear flange of the jack face and housing. Note that due to a keyway groove in the housing that mates with a key molded into the internal strain relief collar, the housing must be rotationally aligned to allow the housing to fit over the strain relief collar. The red ejection lock spring latch also aligns with its notch in the housing at the same timing. This is your last chance to align/center the cable coming through the strain relief collar chuck - check it! Then put the screw through the housing to tighten it to the jack (you're screwing into the ground lug also), and finally, you will slide the strain relief boot up to the thread on the housing and screw it into place. Try to tighten the strain relief onto the housing without letting the cable twist. Hope you ate your Wheaties!



      27/28 - Completed ATV/Roland 3-Zone Cymbal to Yamaha 3-Zone adapter cable! ENJOY.



      28/28 - Many hours' work here. I suppose I will do these faster going forward, with the practice and brushed back up soldering foo I have now, but these will take care of my immediate needs. One more thing to point out -- see how the 2nd one has a tiewrap at the halfway point? That's because I didn't think of doing something to hold the 2 cables together somewhere near midway until after I made the first one. For the other 4, I used another piece of the 6mm heatstink tubing, slid over the pair of cables as the FIRST item put on before any of the parts of the NJ3FC6, that way once the female end was completely finished, the piece of heatstink is there waiting for you to put where you want it and shrink it down. Using the adhesive included type of heatshrink tubing here should help it stay in place and maybe not wear out so fast.
      Last edited by RetroRambler; 06-08-20, 10:20 PM.
      My Diamond E-Drums Kit | ATV cymbals | Gibraltar HW | 4x eDRUMin | RME HDSPe RayDAT | Superior Drummer 3 + Hansa | Reaper x64 DAW

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      • #4
        Quality work sir. Very nice and definitely something I’ll have to try out at some point...
        Roland TD-50 & eDRUMin Modules | Superior Drummer 3 | Tama A2E w/ R-Drums Triggers | FIELD, ATV, & Roland Cymbals | ACD Unlimited Pedals | Tama & Gibraltar HW | RME HDSPe AIO Interface | Mackie ProFX10v3 Mixer | Simmons DA200S Monitor | V-MODA Crossfade M-100 OEMs & Westone UM Pro 50 IEMs

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        • #5
          Thanks rdubu!
          My Diamond E-Drums Kit | ATV cymbals | Gibraltar HW | 4x eDRUMin | RME HDSPe RayDAT | Superior Drummer 3 + Hansa | Reaper x64 DAW

          Comment


          • #6
            Very nice and clean. I've done similar stuff in the past (but guitar amp related) but it always ended up being last minute improvised and crappy looking. This looks professionally done.

            Comment


            • #7
              :-) Using Neutriks best and most expensive connectors is my invention...

              A good hint when creating these cables is to set the resistor in one of the NP3RX connectors instead...easier to mount here than in the NJ3FJ6 which gets quite complex anyway where two cables are supposed to join ...but results will of course be the same regardless what you do. If you also connect the tip in both of the NP3RX’s...you will have a nice backup if the tip cable after years of usage breaks in one of the connectors

              best regards

              Anders - Zourman.com

              Pearl CrystalBeat and Sonor Safari, Roland CY-14/13R/15R/12CR,RT-10/30,BT-1,VH-11/12/13 & KD-10,Dingbat,Triggera D14,D11, ATV AD-h14, 120MHz MegaDRUM with PS board, 2box 3,5,5MKII, dd4SE, Yamaha DTX502, Addictive Drums 2.1.8. All ADpaks, Microsoft Surface PRO, Macbook, Pearl Throne Thumper, Zourman HH & Ride Conv Kit www.zourman.com

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              • #8
                Anders thank you. I wondered about that, hooking both tip leads up whether there was some reason not to I wasn't understanding. But it makes sense what you said I will update that part and give you credit for it.

                I do also tip my hat to you for using Neutrik connectors on yours, you did it with those on yours first. Although I am familiar with Neutrik from guitar cables and other patch cords, MIDI etc. My RME interface has Neutrik XLRs on it too. They are top quality and I have always been more of a buy once cry once kind of guy. But these Neutriks really are best TRS connectors I've seen yet ( I just have not been inside as many cables resoldering them etc. as pros have).

                I did also wonder about putting resistor on male end instead. Struggled even, because it did seem cleaner to separate the resistor to the male end of Edge and not try to put both rings together with it there on female end. Just wasn't sure how cleanly I could have got it in there with how the ring was between tip and sleeve like it is. Lack of imagination, though, I think in retrospect it comes down to order of operations. It may be a lot easier to do on male end if you do the ring lead with resistor first and I didn't think of that.

                Thanks!
                Retro
                Last edited by RetroRambler; 06-10-20, 08:51 PM.
                My Diamond E-Drums Kit | ATV cymbals | Gibraltar HW | 4x eDRUMin | RME HDSPe RayDAT | Superior Drummer 3 + Hansa | Reaper x64 DAW

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                • #9
                  Anders thanks again - I went back and re-read what you said -- I did solder the tip leads on both male ends -- just didn't connect the tip from the Bell/Cup cable at the output jack, it's basically there as a spare like you said, but still I'll put some clarifying stuff in there.
                  Last edited by RetroRambler; 06-10-20, 08:53 PM.
                  My Diamond E-Drums Kit | ATV cymbals | Gibraltar HW | 4x eDRUMin | RME HDSPe RayDAT | Superior Drummer 3 + Hansa | Reaper x64 DAW

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    Originally posted by frankzappa View Post
                    Very nice and clean. I've done similar stuff in the past (but guitar amp related) but it always ended up being last minute improvised and crappy looking. This looks professionally done.
                    Thanks frankzappa. I've still got a ways to go but definitely wanna get there.
                    My Diamond E-Drums Kit | ATV cymbals | Gibraltar HW | 4x eDRUMin | RME HDSPe RayDAT | Superior Drummer 3 + Hansa | Reaper x64 DAW

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      Another thing about the male end connectors and me picking Neutriks over other options that were less expensive....

                      The Neutrik NP3RX was the only right-angle male TRS I found at one major supplier whose diameter/size of the body was small enough around to have another one sitting right beside it and have both of them be able to be fully inserted at the same time on my ATV aD-H14 hi-hat. The other 1-2 I saw were definitely going to be too big. That cured me immediately of looking at any other brand, whose quality would be questionable anyway, where I don't worry about Neutrik. (If Neutrik is good enough for RME.....)

                      3-zone support on my hi-hat is an absolute requirement on my setup, at least unless/until I learn that its not worth losing sleep over, but for now I'll trust that the extra articulations available in SD3 specific SDX's are worth trying at least.
                      My Diamond E-Drums Kit | ATV cymbals | Gibraltar HW | 4x eDRUMin | RME HDSPe RayDAT | Superior Drummer 3 + Hansa | Reaper x64 DAW

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                      • #12
                        Some updates with wiring diagrams and adapter circuit design info, some other misc. updates and clarifications in Post 1 before pictures start. Will clean up picture notes some a bit later.
                        My Diamond E-Drums Kit | ATV cymbals | Gibraltar HW | 4x eDRUMin | RME HDSPe RayDAT | Superior Drummer 3 + Hansa | Reaper x64 DAW

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