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Hoping experts can give me some advice for my improving single zone crash design

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  • Hoping experts can give me some advice for my improving single zone crash design

    I spent about 5 minutes thinking up this design and building it. It actually works fine for practice but I know it will break during a rehearsal. Any advice on improving this will be very appreciated. It's a pre soldered goedrums piezo attached to a Pintech 10" practice cymabl I bought from Sweetwater.

    BTW, it actually plays fine.


    Pintech 10 Single Zone.jpg
    Last edited by dsteinschneider; 01-05-20, 02:51 PM.
    Ludwig Accent 5 piece kit | UFO Drums ebridges, 3 ply mesh heads and rim protectors | Yamaha PCY135 on Ludwig stand with DIY hall effect sensor | Yamaha PCY155 ride | DIY Pintech 2 zone crashes with Goedrums piezo's - Myrk membranes| eDRUMin ED10 | Cantabile VST host | Superior Drummer and Jamstix kits | Alto TS115a monitors | IK ARC 3

  • #2
    Piezos are 0.50 in the UK ($0.65), so doesn't matter if you break a few

    I'd hotglue a lump of rubber (mouse mat?) to cover the piezo by a few inches to protect the cables from moving. Otherwise they'll just come away from the piezo within a short time.
    *** Never buy a module without MIDI IN ***
    Yamaha & Roland modules. DTX,TM-2, EC-10, EC10m, SP-404. Multi12. TrapKat. ControlPads. Octapad, SamplePad, Wavedrum. Handsonic. Dynacord RhythmStick. MPC. Paiste 2002/Signatures. Cajons. Djembes. Darbuka. Windsynth. MIDI Bass. Tenori-on. Zoom ARQ. Synths. Ukes.

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    • #3
      I'd stick the piezo inside s small project box and then glue/bolt the box to the cymbal. Your jack can also go in the project box. This way there are no dangling cables and the hot spot should be lessened. Lots of cymbals are done this way.

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      • #4
        As others have mentioned it is a matter of protecting the piezo and stopping the wires from moving. I use hot glue although I had no problem when I just used double sided tape to hold in place
        Roland TD30 module on TD20 kit SD3 with various kits. Pearl Masters Kit, Yamaha 9000RC original natural wood finish. Cymbals from Zildgian Pasite and Sabian. Loads of percussion bits. Cubase and Wavelab always current versions.

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        • #5
          Thanks for answers. I think I'll try both methods.

          To Ignotus I have two questions:
          1. What kind of glue would you use to attach the project box to the cymbal?
          2. I know you're in Spain but interested if you have a link for a suitable project box.

          I have a glue gun with standard sticks. I also have Gorilla two part expoxy on hand.,

          I notice for Pintech's own e-cymbal version they put a thin square of material on the opposite side from where the piezo is attached. What would you use for that? I'm thinking thin mouse pad neoprene or the rubber I used to use to make DIY pads way back when although that material is about 1/8th thick.


          Ludwig Accent 5 piece kit | UFO Drums ebridges, 3 ply mesh heads and rim protectors | Yamaha PCY135 on Ludwig stand with DIY hall effect sensor | Yamaha PCY155 ride | DIY Pintech 2 zone crashes with Goedrums piezo's - Myrk membranes| eDRUMin ED10 | Cantabile VST host | Superior Drummer and Jamstix kits | Alto TS115a monitors | IK ARC 3

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          • #6
            Hi,

            1.- I'd either use two part epoxy or bolt it on using flat-head screws, countersinking a bit on the top surface so the screw doesn't protrude. Two diagonal to each other is enough. With epoxy there's no going back once it's on without possibly destroying the cymbal.

            2.- I used plastic boxes that these chewing gum pastilles came in (can't remember brand, sorry...), but maybe these might do. You may just be able to fit a jack on the side.

            I used pond liner for all my cymbals. It's very tough, and you can use several layers if you want more dampening. I take it then that Pintech places the piezo on the opposite side from where you strike the cymbal? The thing about mouse pads and similar is that they'll disintegrate over time - you want something durable.

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            • #7
              I'm going with the countersunk pair of screws that I cover with the pond liner. I'm going to search around for the box Pintech uses - it's got two triangular shaped mounting flanges.

              I should be able to get scraps of pond liner from a friend who built a pond. How thick in mm should it be?
              Ludwig Accent 5 piece kit | UFO Drums ebridges, 3 ply mesh heads and rim protectors | Yamaha PCY135 on Ludwig stand with DIY hall effect sensor | Yamaha PCY155 ride | DIY Pintech 2 zone crashes with Goedrums piezo's - Myrk membranes| eDRUMin ED10 | Cantabile VST host | Superior Drummer and Jamstix kits | Alto TS115a monitors | IK ARC 3

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              • #8
                I think I found the box:

                https://www.polycase.com/tf-1521tx
                Last edited by dsteinschneider; 01-06-20, 02:45 PM.
                Ludwig Accent 5 piece kit | UFO Drums ebridges, 3 ply mesh heads and rim protectors | Yamaha PCY135 on Ludwig stand with DIY hall effect sensor | Yamaha PCY155 ride | DIY Pintech 2 zone crashes with Goedrums piezo's - Myrk membranes| eDRUMin ED10 | Cantabile VST host | Superior Drummer and Jamstix kits | Alto TS115a monitors | IK ARC 3

                Comment


                • #9
                  Yeah that box should be ok - you could even try attaching the piezo to the bottom of the box instead of directly on the cymbal.

                  The pond liner I have is 1 mm thick. On most cymbals I used a single layer but it's still (relatively) noisy. I used 3 layers as a test on my hi hat and while it made it quieter, I had to really raise the sensitivity. There's a bit of a trade-off there between sensitivity and noise. But given you're just making it a single-zone, I suppose you'll mainly be striking it on the edge, won't you? If that's the case, you needn't bother putting anything on the cymbal. I used car door trim round the edge and that really made edge hits quieter. Just cut it to length and superglue the ends together.

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                  • #10
                    You might also be interested in this. The simplest way to add the choke function to a single-zone cymbal.

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                    • #11
                      Here's photo of the Polycase box - pretty sure it's the exact Pintech is using - in this photo it looks a little taller than it is
                      polycase_project_box_tf-1521tx_16.jpg
                      Last edited by dsteinschneider; 01-06-20, 02:46 PM.
                      Ludwig Accent 5 piece kit | UFO Drums ebridges, 3 ply mesh heads and rim protectors | Yamaha PCY135 on Ludwig stand with DIY hall effect sensor | Yamaha PCY155 ride | DIY Pintech 2 zone crashes with Goedrums piezo's - Myrk membranes| eDRUMin ED10 | Cantabile VST host | Superior Drummer and Jamstix kits | Alto TS115a monitors | IK ARC 3

                      Comment


                      • #12
                        Reporting back. My 3 Pintech XT16 crash and XT10 splash practice cymbals are now all converted. The box above is definitely the one Pintech uses. I thought about buying a TC16 to take apart but I found this posted on Imgur: https://imgur.com/a/z4cX5 This person is taking it apart to fix it.

                        His complaint was double triggering. His fix was to place a square of 3M self adhesive foam between the piezo and the cymbal surface. I was already using double sided clear 3M tape from Home Depot and also wasn't getting any doube triggering. I also noticed that they use a mouse pad like gasket over the top of the piezo to cushion the box when tightened to the cymbal.

                        I bought 10-24 x 3/4" flat head phillips coarse thread bolts and matching nylon locking nuts to attach the box


                        Hillman  No. 10-24   x 3/4 in. L Phillips  Flat Head Zinc-Plated  Steel  Machine Screws  100 pk
                        Hillman No. 10-24 x 3/4 in. L Phillips Fl

                        I used a countersink drill from the top of the cymbal so the bolts are perfectly flush with the surface of the cymbals.

                        I haven't put a "Strike Mat" on the top of the cymbal yet. I could source a replacement one from Pintech for $12 https://pintech.com/product/strike-pad/ just to see what it is but I'll probably use Ignotus' pond liner instead.

                        Final thoughts: I've converted a Pintech XT16 plain practice cymbal that's $12 from Sweetwater into a TC16 which sells for $36 by adding $3 worth of parts and 10 minutes of time. Saving $20 wasn't really the objective, I wanted to know exactly how it was built for future repair and to know that it's done right with good quality parts.
                        Last edited by dsteinschneider; 01-11-20, 11:28 AM.
                        Ludwig Accent 5 piece kit | UFO Drums ebridges, 3 ply mesh heads and rim protectors | Yamaha PCY135 on Ludwig stand with DIY hall effect sensor | Yamaha PCY155 ride | DIY Pintech 2 zone crashes with Goedrums piezo's - Myrk membranes| eDRUMin ED10 | Cantabile VST host | Superior Drummer and Jamstix kits | Alto TS115a monitors | IK ARC 3

                        Comment


                        • #13
                          IMG_20200115_145704.jpg
                          Here's photos of the inside of the box and with it bolted on.
                          IMG_20200115_145704.jpg

                          IMG_20200115_145805.jpg
                          Last edited by dsteinschneider; 01-16-20, 02:29 PM.
                          Ludwig Accent 5 piece kit | UFO Drums ebridges, 3 ply mesh heads and rim protectors | Yamaha PCY135 on Ludwig stand with DIY hall effect sensor | Yamaha PCY155 ride | DIY Pintech 2 zone crashes with Goedrums piezo's - Myrk membranes| eDRUMin ED10 | Cantabile VST host | Superior Drummer and Jamstix kits | Alto TS115a monitors | IK ARC 3

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                          • #14
                            Wow this thread is timely, I am looking to do the same thing. Ignotus how do you usually adhere your pond liner? I am planning just to use the edge, so the car door trim will work great just wondering how to cover up the countersunk holes. dtseinschneider, do you have a picture of the top of the cymbal?

                            Thanks guys

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                            • #15
                              I used flexible Loctite, the one advertised as not going brittle when it dries. I suppose any adhesive for plastic/rubber should do. Thing is, I later covered the pond liner in car wrap vinyl, which further holds it down as it wraps over and under the edge. Gives it a better appearance too IMHO

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