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Triggering low volume cymbals... worth a try, or a fools mission?

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  • #31
    The biggest challenge with the L80s ( for those who haven't try to convert one but are advising "in theory" ) is the long lasting vibration, that easily causes double (tripple etc) triggering.
    As the sole reason to chose to convert an L80 instead of a normal cymbal is to avoid the need of a complete damping (as it is already silent to acceptable levels), you then have a long vibrating surface to get signal from. This is getting worse with the size - the 20" ride ie .. it should be doable, but just not sticking the piezo anywhere on the surface and move on like you would normally do ..
    Last edited by pumpal; 10-28-17, 02:50 PM.
    ATV aD5, (Roland TD-15 for sale!)
    TAMA MetroJam2 TRB A2E

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    • #32
      Originally posted by G-Rad View Post
      The three zone ride is really simple, too. Just a simple wiring method of taking a dual zone cymbal with edge switch and head piezo and woring a second jack with just another edge switch to stick on the bell, and that's literally it.

      Are you saying you don't mount anything on top of the bell switch? I suppose it needs some protective shielding, and some sort of layer to enlarge the strike area, not?
      MarkDrum YES e-kit highly modified (DIY hall-sensor based hihat, low-volume trigger cymbals, 16" DIY kick, 12" DIY snare + tom 3), Triggera 10" splash
      Gibraltar 9607NL-DP Legless Hi Hat, Intruder Double Pedal
      Shure SE215 in-ears w. CustomArt silicone tips

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      • #33
        No, there's something on the bell to give it a larger striking surface. Oh, how I wish I had something like a mega bell ride or something similar with a large bell surface... That'd be awesome!
        Roland TD-50, DW Collector's A2E kit, PD-140DS, CY-18DR, 2xCY-14C, 2x CY-8, 2x CY-5, VH-10, Modified MDS-12v

        TD-3 > TD-10E > TD-20 > TD/W-20 > TD-15 > TD-50

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        • #34
          New to forum and was reasearching this very low volume triggered solution. Came across this company at www.magnatrack.com using a combination of magnetic/stand mount solution. I am tempted to try them in the near future. Anyone else had experience with the product?

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          • #35
            The vibrational issues with L80 conversions could be resolved with correct foam placement around the piezo, and in the bell area of the cymbal where it is mounted, deadening the cymbal quickly.

            As G-Rad said, making your own cymbals is very easy. I actually believe it is easier to make a good triggering cymbal than it is a snare or bass drum!

            Metal cymbals are the hardest as you have the most vibrational and warping issues to deal with. Converting plastic practice cymbals is the easiest method. If you feel a bit more creative, and know where to buy acrylic (hopefully they will cut it round in dimensions that work for you!) then you can go the full visulite style method using a vacuum cleaner, and old brass cymbal and a heat gun... sounds insane but it's a great one to give a go! Tried all 3, I definitely think the acrylic cymbals feel the best for electric drumming (just like Roland cymbals), easiest to get really reliable triggering, long lasting, and they look really stunning when you hit them with some lights!

            As someone mentioned you can get my edge and bell triggers from ebay (search for "Myrk- membrane switches") or message me direct on here if you want to order more than a few (I do better pricing when you buy more direct).

            To explain why the membranes can work on the underside, but not as reliably, it is because cymbals warp A LOT when you hit them. See this video:
            https://youtu.be/osFBNLA7woY?t=44s

            When the cymbal deflects that much it bends the membrane enough to trigger it off, and it's generally fast enough to also catch the piezo to activate the edge sound on your module. You can see from that video why metal cymbal conversions can be a bit nightmarish! You have to ensure you use heavy cymbals that won't warp as much, and even then the design will inevitably fail in time under that much stress unless you pop rivet everything together! I would always advise as best practice that people who want perfect edge triggering should place the membrane on the top and use an edge rubber trim to protect the membrane. This being said I see creative new ways all the time, and maybe someone will come up with a craftily simple method to utilize membranes and piezos in a full stealth way?
            Last edited by Myrk-; 09-17-18, 08:18 PM.

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            • #36
              I'm going the silent cymbals route since I've got tired of hitting rubber. Original idea is to go hybrid, micking the cymbals and triggering the toms and kick, it's not much of a hassle since my kit is for practice at home only. Might try to trigger the cymbals tho, if I figure how to activate the ride bell on an easy and efective way.

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