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Mac's A2E Project

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  • #16
    Originally posted by drumlab84 View Post
    Your kit is looking nice!! Love the fiberskyn on the bass and green looks great for shell color.
    I love the look of fiberskyn. Add's just a little accent. It was the first thing I ordered once I got the shells.


    • #17
      Originally posted by Macarina View Post

      I have. It's still not out of the equation. I'm gonna give the KD-9 a try and see how that goes. If it doesn't perform like I'd like, the trigger/mesh will be my next move.
      Perfect! I only asked cause I started with Roland kick pads and moving to the mesh head was night and day for me.
      TD50 Digital Pack, TD30 and TD9 Modules, custom made pads, Gen16 crashes, and hats plus a few other things that I'm not sure what to do with or why they're still in my kit. Bands: Espada and JamCo,


      • #18
        I converted a set of Yamaha Stage Customs using the RTB bar triggers.

        It is now my main gigging kit.

        Green drums unite!


        • #19
          very nice!
          Pearl Mimic pro, A to E 7 piece Pearl Decade maple, ddrum Deccabons, Ddrum DDTi, UFO X-bar triggers, Real feel heads, Gibraltar rack, VH13, PD105 side snare, Roc-N-Soc,Tama Iron Cobra, Iron cobra high hat stand, Cobra clutch, Pearl throne thumper, Roland and Kit Toys cymbals, Roland KC 500, Promark


          • #20
            Originally posted by SemperFidelity View Post
            I converted a set of Yamaha Stage Customs using the RTB bar triggers.

            It is now my main gigging kit.

            Green drums unite!
            Oh dayum... NICE!!!!


            • #21
              Well, I got back from vacation with the R-drum triggers delivered (thank you Mary for watching for this). I was a tad surprised with the size of the box. Well, they just did an outstanding job of packing. It was rather light. Not much really in there weight wise. Just plenty of air and cushion for the long trip home.

              Now it's time to put this somb'ch together.

              I know a lot of us don't care for unboxgin videos. So I won't... Just some unboxing photos.

              Last edited by Macarina; 07-04-17, 04:52 PM.


              • #22
                Today, Memorial Day, I worked on dropping in the triggers to the toms. Went fairly smoothly. The R-Drum triggers are solid and well crafted. While they supplied new longer bolts for the additional need for the bracket insertion, the bolts were the incorrect size. I just wound up using the factory bolts. They were plenty long.

                I did have one small glitch with the slot in the bracket. It was designed for the smaller supplied bolts, which I didn't use, and I had to 'modify' the slot a tad for the slightly larger bolt.

                In the end it worked out great.

                I put in the the resonant "Plughead" easily and I really liked how they work and are integrated into the system.

                Last edited by Macarina; 07-04-17, 04:56 PM.


                • #23
                  I had also worked on the kick. The plan is to incorporate the KD-9 from my current kit, because I like the way it feels. Rigging the KD-9 into the base, I used a 1" square aluminum stock. Bolted it with L-brackets using 2 of the lugs in the shell. I also added some carpet samples on the curve of the shell. I added a large velcro piece to the base of the KD-9. This was intended to help prevent any creep and the unit stay in place. I then used a couple of pipe clamps, attaching the KD-9 to aluminum stock. I lined the interior of the clamp with rubber, but that was not thick enough. I then cut pieces of the carpet and that provided a very good secure buffer around the legs of the unit.

                  Last edited by Macarina; 07-04-17, 05:01 PM.


                  • #24
                    Sooooo, the KD-9 is perfectly functional... Just like I expected.


                    As you see in my previous photo's of the trial fit, the KD-9 leans forward. It still does. The only way to adjust the KD-9 is with the front bracket where the pedal attaches.

                    I think that look pretty damn silly.

                    A possible solution is maybe put a 'riser' to lift up the pedal to the required height and angle. That's rigging it and I'm not thinking to keenly of that.

                    I don't think I'll move forward with making some kind of cut out on the head to encase it.

                    I've put to much time and effort into good materials to do this half ass. Like BWaj and few others are probably thinking... I'm really leaning into getting R-Drums Kick Drum trigger solution.

                    For now... it works, but it's not for me.

                    Here's the current driver seat...

                    Bad lighting... I know.

                    I've cabled most of the pieces and just as I suspected, the cabling looks like a nightmare.

                    I still have the snare trigger and I need to add the rim noise silencers.

                    ... and I need to start figuring out the TD-30. But I'm very pleased with the drop in triggers, hooking them up and they are ready to go.

                    Last edited by Macarina; 07-05-17, 12:02 PM.


                    • #25
                      Looks great.


                      • #26
                        VaderImpressive.gif~c200.gifImpressive ...most impressive.


                        • #27
                          Very nice sir!!!
                          All vintage gear at the moment - Roland PM-16, electronified Remo practice pads and a TD-5 bringing up the rear.

                          Starting to build the super ultimate mega dream electronic drum set!!!


                          • #28
                            I've been lack in updating the progress. I have been working on it. Just forget to post and write.

                            So I finally tackled the snare. I just took my time one evening while watching a movie. It took some time to get every thing out. Everything in. Lined up, adjusted, measured. In reality, it was just drop in and play. Hooked up and it plays like a dream. I just now need to make adjustments in the module.

                            A view from the resonant side.

                            And a view from the snare side. Keeping the cardboard protection on while doing the install, so not to damage the cone.

                            Last edited by Macarina; 07-05-17, 12:04 PM.


                            • #29
                              Well also, some of of my time was tackling the Hi-Hat issue which I documented in this other thread.

                              Last edited by Macarina; 07-05-17, 12:05 PM.


                              • #30
                                I worked on the 'Rim Silencers' aka condoms this weekend as well.

                                The Rim Silencers I got from R-drums was one long piece, enough for a full kit, that I had to cut to size. I installed them with a little overlap to get a good seamless butt joint. Got them on and they looked fantastic.

                                It's when I started to play the kit, my fears were realized. They were shrinking and produced a noticeable gap. The movement probably occurred for a couple of reasons. When I put them on, I guess I may have 'stretched' them. second, striking them, even more movement on the rim. More separation. Also, the kit is in the basement, which is cool. Much cooler than my garage where I installed them.

                                So I contacted R-Drums and got a detailed response from Mr. Rathgeber, of my question how to glue them together.

                                We use a primer and super glue for sticking the ends together. The rim noise silenser is made from rubber.

                                The diameter of the rings should be a bit smaller than the diameter of the hoop. Here is a list of the required lengths:

                                08" = 655 mm
                                10" = 815 mm
                                12" = 975 mm
                                13" = 1055 mm
                                14" = 1135 mm
                                16" = 1295 mm

                                Best regards,
                                So I found a Loctite product that matched his discription...

                                The first rim, the snare, I was not quick enough during the bonding operation and didn't line it up exactly. I finally figured out a good way to do it by the 3rd and 4th hoop.
                                In a nutshell, I overlapped by 1/4", then followed Loctites instructions and worked out pretty nice. I know where the seam is. But others maybe hard pressed to see it.

                                Pictures later when I can figure that out.

                                Example of the gap forming after just a day or so.

                                Results of the two step (primer) super glue

                                This just a side shot showing I had little room, for the key, with the rim silencer attached.

                                Last edited by Macarina; 07-05-17, 12:11 PM.