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Time to Replace Foam Cones and/or Piezos?

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  • Fpint
    replied
    Just got mine replaced with UFOs cones, they work great
    picture shows the difference from the old and new one

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  • red4u
    replied
    Well, yeah, I guess it's a bit of a gamble either way. I'll consider all the options, we'll see.
    Thanks
    Last edited by red4u; 03-03-17, 06:09 PM.

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  • vmastro
    replied
    Originally posted by red4u View Post

    vmastro, you're probably right. It would require to temporarily remove the metal plate which personally I prefer not to do.. too scared to do more damage by mistakenly harming the piezo's connections or something.
    Heck, you probably have a greater risk of damage removing the old cone. Taking the platform off is not to difficult. No risk, no reward.

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  • pumpal
    replied
    I forgot about that - meanwhile you can get some furniture leg pads (foam or evn felt) and stick one ore more on top of the cone(s) to make it contact the head again. It will make the things playable at least while you are then comfortably finding the best way to source a replacement.
    Last edited by pumpal; 03-03-17, 05:16 AM.

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  • red4u
    replied
    Yeah, I was thinking about rough shaping and filing as well but assumed it would be far from perfect this way.

    vmastro, you're probably right. It would require to temporarily remove the metal plate which personally I prefer not to do.. too scared to do more damage by mistakenly harming the piezo's connections or something.

    Anyways, i'm still on the hunt after an original roland cone before I give up and decide which DIY approach to take. I wonder if a new one would actually be that much taller..… it seems like there's 5mm or so missing at the moment.

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  • vmastro
    replied
    You can change the height of the platform by using washers

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  • pumpal
    replied
    That's the problem, it's not straight forward to precisely cut and shape foams .. especially in this case where you can't tweak the height of the platform (I believe).
    But for $1 it worth nothing to try.
    The best result I was getting by initially rough shaping the foam with scissors and then using a flat file for metal to smooth it.. You can use the double adhesive black foam tape to stick it and to correct the height a bit if needed. Final goal - 0.5-1mm above the edge.
    Last edited by pumpal; 03-02-17, 09:38 AM.

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  • red4u
    replied
    Pumpal, i'm curious- you said you've experimented with different types of foam, but have you cut them to the exact dimensions of a roland cone? I have the same issue Michael has and I do think that buying an original roland cone saves the hassle IF you can get your hands on them for a reasonable price. In my case they're not available at all.

    I opened my pd-105 to examine the foam and as you can see in the picture it's definitely lower than it should be.
    I compared the cone to a cheap stressball (costs less than 1$) and I must say they felt very similar to me (though i'm not sure what's the foam like underneath the coating).. the roland cone was a bit mushier and slower to rise than the stressball, which maybe is a good thing since a new cone feels firmer anyway.
    Cone height can't be adjusted on these pads but if you make your own you can make it to the dimensions of a roland one (tip- 7mm, height- 35mm, base- 38mm).
    If you are crafty and have the right materials just laying around you can make it pretty accurate and neat looking with Bogie's jig… but otherwise it's a bit of a headache. Could potentially be a 1$ experiment though and then it's just a question of how well this kind of foam would work.
    Last edited by red4u; 03-02-17, 05:47 PM.

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  • MichaelB
    replied
    RE: Alesis pads - yeah those are definitely not firing so hot either. The foam in there basically looks like generic/cheapo foam you'd get from a hardware store, so I'll look around and see what I can find.

    The trials and tribulations of buying used gear, everyone! It's a good thing I kind of like doing this stuff.

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  • MichaelB
    replied
    Haven't tried those out yet, but will as soon as I have time

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  • SiliconDrummer
    replied
    Originally posted by MichaelB View Post
    ... I ran a flat piece cardboard across, and it was able to glide over without bumping in to the foam.
    That's not a good sign. The attached picture also confirms that the foam is squashed and not springing back. It doesn't look worn, but the compression-set is pretty bad. Healthy foam should spring back after you remove the head, but that one doesn't look like it is going to recover. Do they all look like that?

    Btw, kind of curious how your Alesis/Hart Acupads work on your TD-9. The foam on those look worse.

    -SD-
    Last edited by SiliconDrummer; 02-27-17, 01:00 PM.

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  • MichaelB
    replied
    That makes sense, considering the guy I bought the drums from was playing them with big, wooden claves like the ones pictured. He probably beat the poor little things senseless.
    Last edited by MichaelB; 02-27-17, 12:24 PM.

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  • jpsquared482
    replied
    The pic of your cone does show serious signs of wear & tear. The edges should be straight; those bulges are a sign of serious compression. This is caused by three variables: 1) Insufficient head tension. 2) Heavy hitting 3) Time. So, don't e afraid to tighten up your heads.

    In terms of how to replace the cones, I posted this on another thread:
    http://www.vdrums.com/forum/advanced...feeling-normal

    Replacing cones IS EASY, but takes some patience. You need to be careful with the piezo it's stuck onto. The best trick is to shave as much of it off the piezo with a razor blade as you can. Don't bear down, and don't pull up on the foam ever. You can damage it the piezo by doing that. Just carefully scrape with a side to side motion of the razor to shave it off. This will probably leave a thin layer of foam and the adhesive on the piezo. Then use mineral spirits (paint thinner) and dab it on the foam and glue residue. Let it sit for about 1 min, then scrape that off with a razor. Repeat the process and finally wipe it clean with a paper towel. Repeat this until all the residue is removed and you'll have a beautifully clean bare surface. It will take you about 5 -10 minutes per foam trigger.

    Then, just peel the backer off the new one and carefully center it on the piezo and press gently. i use a slight circular motion as I press it on to make sure it's completely stuck all the way around.

    Again, be careful with the piezo and avoid too much force. Use the razor and solvent and some patience, and you'll be fine. I recently replaced a foam cone on a used PD125, and it now plays like new.

    Good luck!

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  • MichaelB
    replied
    Good to know! And just to follow up, I got the heads back on, and I'm still experiencing the issues after factory reset. It looks like the foam is the issue after all...I'll call Roland tomorrow.

    Thanks for all the help.

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  • pumpal
    replied
    This does look quite bitten up and smashed. What SiliconD meant is that normally the top of the cone must be around 1mm higher then the edge of the shell, so that it is in contact with the head. "but I ran a flat piece cardboard across, and it was able to glide over without bumping in to the foam." - that's a problem!

    In relation to the tennis ball/sanding block/pyramid etc that you are still considering it seems, I will say only, that I have tried quite a bit of different foams and for sure you can put some foam and it will probably trigger better then now, but it won't be quite as good as it would with the original Roland cone. The nuances in the dynamic response is where the big difference is between good and perfect. IMO it does not worth being cheap for that small amount of price difference.

    P.S> I now saw the first link. I think from Roland direct cones were $11.99. The link I have does not appear to have them at this time, but only a week ago they were avail. I think it worth contacting Roland directly by phone/email. http://shop.rolandus.com/p/cushion-cone-foam-black
    Last edited by pumpal; 02-26-17, 05:35 PM.

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