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Easy yet efficient and free permanent FD-8 rubber fix

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  • #16
    Originally posted by happy_dude View Post
    First I have to say I won't be able to show any pics of this because I sold the FD-8 with the old drumset already. This is however a fix I did at the time, and it saved the FD-8 for me.

    I have been told by a Roland dealer the reason why the FD-8 gets unresponsive or really hard to trigger properly over time is because the Chinese maker of the rubber piece inside the FD-8 stopped respecting the industrial chart at some point of the batch and melted an inappropriate rubber recipe to make that part. As a result it gets stiff over time on some models, while some others don't seem to be affected at all (because they are supposedly from a newer batch. Roland replaces this part for free if you bring it back to your dealer. Unfortunately, the Roland spare parts dpt isn't the most efficient of theirs, and it becomes harder to get those parts in convenient time or at all.

    Anyway no matter the truth in this tale or bs, if you are concerned about a faulty FD-8 you've probably seen vids on youtube of people trying to soften the gum in hot oil. Well it works till the gum gets cold and then gradulally it's back to the usul stiffness, so it cannot be a durable fix.

    Maybe you've also tried as well to design a piece of rubber that could do the replacement, but probably you've figured the curvature is essential to this part and you cannot get the curvature out of a rubber plate, so it doesn't really works very well either.

    Or you've tried to add a piece of thick carpeting between the rubber and the sensor in order to gain back some sensitivity but without finding the fix really even in the trigger response.

    None of these fixes really work long, they just add more problems to the equation.

    But there's a mechanical solution to this issue, plain simple and 100% efficient over time : the rubber part mold is joint at the middle of the part horizontally, you have to cut lines through the width of the part down to this joint mark. You can use a cutter, the idea is to restore the elasticity of the rubber part to something very supple, you have to cut about 7 to 10 lines in the width, evenly spaced, down to the joint point, so that the lower part of the rubber remains intact, and the upper allows for the desired elasticity.

    As the rubber part is thick enough it won't harm it, and the give of the pedal is not deep nor strong enough anyway to cut it in half. The cuts act like a spring added to the part, so that it regains its original elasticity.

    Don't forget to add some grease on the part that is in contact with the metal foot of the pedal before assembling back, and that's it, it triggers good again and for good.

    After that you can go back to playing without thinking obsessionally of this #@*% piece of hihat controller any more.

    And the FD-8 with a CY-5 isn't so bad after all now that is works, isn't?
    I just bought a used TD-6 and i was very disappointed when i first used the hihat. After your fix, the hihat works like a charm. Thank you! I love this forum!

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    • #17
      Thanks so much! just about to buy the replacement sensor and rubber on eBay, then I saw this post, saved money~!

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      • #18
        Thanks you! I used the alternate rub the rubber technique from Adleed: There is indeed like a skin around the rubber that is hard, but the inner material is soft! Since the pedal was already used when I got my kit, I had never experienced that the control of the hihat could be so precise. Plus the spare part has now reached 22Euro (!) for a piece of molded synthetic rubber - the DIY technique rules!

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        • #19
          I was about to order 2 new ones but decided to find an ultimate solution...because new ones seem to be hard after a certain time...I wont pass my life to buy to new rubbers !
          And I tried your solution, you saved me money and time ! (44€) Thanks a lot genius !!!

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          • #20
            I used hot water and feels like it has melted the entire actuator. If I press a bit, the shape changes and the top side looks like a melted tar. It has been 8 hours since then, still it is not settling. Has my actuator really gone bad now or any hopes?

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