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DIY 3-zone cymbal (revisited)

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  • #31
    I wonder that if you have 6 sections and you have to stick something underneath retrospectively to adjust the gap, you'll have to pull it down all the way to the narrowed down part (to the perpendicular cut), otherwise it'll support a much wider part than with more sections... Right?
    But then it might not be as theoretical as much I think about it

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    • #32
      I guess so, but I don't think that's a bad thing - I pulled the bands right down to the bottom anyway with the smaller sections. The further down you pull them, the more effect they have on the gap at the top and the easier it is to close the switch later. If the fulcrum is too far up, it gets hard to close the switch.

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      • #33
        Convinced, I'll try 6

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        • #34
          Something I forgot to mention is that you really have to apply a bit of solder at every point where the copper strips meet to make sure they'll be conductive in the long term. Although the solder flows well over the copper and leaves a very thin profile, this, along with the glue you use, will mean that the gap you end up with will be slightly larger than what you see with a dry run - all the more reason to leave fixing the gaps until after everything's glued together.

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          • #35
            Good point, thanks. Though, one of the first things that stuck in my mind (I'm a BSc EE, but hey, nobody's perfect ). It all adds up in the end.
            I arrived to a point when I started to stop thinking about changing what I've seen and rather just go ahead and do it. Too many changes by me might render the whole stuff useless. I rather stick to the latest version you've described.

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            • #36
              Except one thing, I'll rather put the ground to the top cymbal so I can connect everything together. Not a big change and along with no edge cuts it might greatly simplify the top cymbal "wiring".

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              • #37
                I was looking for 3-zone cymbal pad foe ride when i stumble upon this post. Very nicely done. It inspired me and now i want to build one. While i was looking for practice cymbals I only found ones that does not have concave bottoms (the bottom side is flat. I cannot use it because I can't stack them up together. It's difficult to find theae materials locally in Singapore. If you could please post some links on the materils you used? Thanks.

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                • #38
                  Hi,

                  You can find more info in this thread: https://www.vdrums.com/forum/advance...zone-cymbal-v2. It's a similar, improved variation of the same design and if you scroll down there are more details on the materials used and where to get some of them. I'm afraid I can't help you much with the practice cymbals themselves other than tell you that the brand is Stagg - I live in Spain and bought them from a local shop and I don't know how hard it might be for you to get them there. Stay away from Pintech practice cymbals though as I understand they tend to get warped and would be useless.

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                  • #39
                    Hello Ignotus.
                    First time I write in this forum.
                    I've been messing around with DIY e-drums foe a while and have achieved good results with R-drums and Drum-Tec stuff but always had problems with DIY cymbals! Made a couple of well functioning A to E brass 2 zones cymbals with choke but once I've seen your project I found it very very interesting! Great job I think!
                    Ordered my Stagg 16" practice cymbals and going to start making one as soon as they arrive!
                    Just one question: how is the wiring going down to the box with the female Jack? I suppose you made a hole but looking at the picture you posted I cannot imagine how the separation of the various signals (tip for piezo ceramic, sleeve for piezo metal and bottom cymbalcopper, ring for switchescopper) is made....... Seems like every thing goes through just one copper tape strip..... Is it so?
                    Thanks.

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                    • #40
                      I've been looking better and I think I've understood! Seen the hole where the three copper strips go and the sleeve is granted by the 12 o'clock strip on top and bottom cymblas.
                      Is that correct?

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