Welcome! If this is your first visit, you will need to register to participate.

DO NOT use symbols in usernames. Doing so will result in an inability to sign in & post!

If you cannot sign in or post, please visit our Forum Talk section for answers to frequently asked questions.

Announcement

Collapse
No announcement yet.

FSR Hi-hat Controller

Collapse
X
 
  • Filter
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts

  • FSR Hi-hat Controller

    Hey guys, I posted this right before the forum upgrade and it got wiped out (bad timing on my part).
    I'm big into diy and I like to work on random ideas just to see if I can do it. I currently have a hall sensor hi-hat controller that I'm looking to upgrade from. I wanted to move to an FSR based controller. I'm a little stuck on what I can use to give the correct tension/pressure to the fsr in this design. In the picture I'm using a piece of foam (was for diy cones bought from mcmaster carr) but it doesn't offer the correct amount of spongy travel which probably won't feel right on the hihat stand. Do u have any suggestions on the design or type of material I can use to make this happen?

    The idea:


    Where I'm stuck:


    The innards:





    : 5 piece dual zone shells, Yamaha cymbals, VH-12 HH
    : Megadrum, Windows 10 (64bit), Focusrite Scarlett 18i20 3rd Gen, SD2.3, Reaper

  • #2
    Hi,
    this is the one I use for about 3 years :





    I think if you find the good spring then you don't need foam anymore. Mine has a piece of rubber inside to press hard the FSR at the end of the travel.
    You can also play with the size of the area that press the FSR : with the same spring, the larger the plate that press the FSR, the harder you need to press the FSR to reach his mininum resistor value

    Comment


    • #3
      I put my FSR under the HH pedal, and I used different layers of foam densities stacked up. I have 3 pieces of foam, starting from the bottom -up : neoprene, hard foam, light foam.
      DTX700, eDRUMin 4+10, A2E Dixon kit, Yamaha cymbals, FSR HH
      Kit Pix http://vdrums.com/forum/album.php?albumid=613

      My new venture, HiEnd Speakers. : voglosounds.com

      Comment


      • #4
        Originally posted by Sylv1co View Post
        Hi,
        this is the one I use for about 3 years :

        I think if you find the good spring then you don't need foam anymore. Mine has a piece of rubber inside to press hard the FSR at the end of the travel.
        You can also play with the size of the area that press the FSR : with the same spring, the larger the plate that press the FSR, the harder you need to press the FSR to reach his mininum resistor value
        Nice. I think I saw a youtube video of yours where u cut the hole in the fsr but never saw your housing. What did you use for it? Are the two ends to the spring custom made? Great job!!!
        : 5 piece dual zone shells, Yamaha cymbals, VH-12 HH
        : Megadrum, Windows 10 (64bit), Focusrite Scarlett 18i20 3rd Gen, SD2.3, Reaper

        Comment


        • #5
          Are the two ends to the spring custom made?
          Yes, with plastic washer and rubber washer, glued together.

          For the housing of the FSR, I use a plumbing plastique fitting tube and some white plexiglass

          Comment


          • #6
            Hi Perceval,
            how do those foam age ? Do they still have the same feeling after the years ?

            Comment


            • #7
              Hm.. I'll be trying this washer/spring idea this weekend. I guess my big spring is kinda pointless then. thanks!
              : 5 piece dual zone shells, Yamaha cymbals, VH-12 HH
              : Megadrum, Windows 10 (64bit), Focusrite Scarlett 18i20 3rd Gen, SD2.3, Reaper

              Comment


              • #8
                oh yea, what is the compression of your spring--is it hard to press together with ur fingers? Sorry that's the only way I know how to convey the compression in this case I'm assuming its just a general spring but the store I went to last time had a huge assortment of different compressions.
                : 5 piece dual zone shells, Yamaha cymbals, VH-12 HH
                : Megadrum, Windows 10 (64bit), Focusrite Scarlett 18i20 3rd Gen, SD2.3, Reaper

                Comment


                • #9
                  I think I replaced one or two over time. Not a problem.

                  That pedal pad is easily accessible.

                  I went with foam pieces of different densities as it was easier than trying to find the right length and compressing force spring.
                  DTX700, eDRUMin 4+10, A2E Dixon kit, Yamaha cymbals, FSR HH
                  Kit Pix http://vdrums.com/forum/album.php?albumid=613

                  My new venture, HiEnd Speakers. : voglosounds.com

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    Here's the pedal board I made, it got painted and looks a little better now. It can slide in and out so it is easily portable and to have access to its parts. I also changed the original one piece of foam to a layered version that works really well.



                    DTX700, eDRUMin 4+10, A2E Dixon kit, Yamaha cymbals, FSR HH
                    Kit Pix http://vdrums.com/forum/album.php?albumid=613

                    My new venture, HiEnd Speakers. : voglosounds.com

                    Comment


                    • Viperr
                      Viperr commented
                      Editing a comment
                      Perceval,

                      What is the effect of the different foam types? Why not use the foam over the entire height of the block?
                      I'm in the process of making my own HH-pedal, so all info is welcome.
                      I have already decided to go for the FSR-under-pedal approach, as it seems much easier then fixing something between the cymbals

                    • perceval
                      perceval commented
                      Editing a comment
                      The different layers of foam did the trick for me. Much more natural. At first, the pedal pushes on the very soft foam so the Hats start to close slowly, then, when the pedal reaches the denser foam, it is easier to find the position of "just slightly open" of the hats. Finally, the neoprene is there to help with foot chicks. Much more natural and precise than using a single piece of foam or single spring.

                  • #11
                    Originally posted by shuey79 View Post
                    oh yea, what is the compression of your spring--is it hard to press together with ur fingers? Sorry that's the only way I know how to convey the compression in this case I'm assuming its just a general spring but the store I went to last time had a huge assortment of different compressions.
                    To reach the rubber piece inside the spring (1,3cm of spring compression), I need to put a plastic bottle with 1liter of water on the spring. Hope that help.

                    Comment


                    • #12
                      Sylv1co, did you use any resister? By any chance are you using a megadrum?
                      : 5 piece dual zone shells, Yamaha cymbals, VH-12 HH
                      : Megadrum, Windows 10 (64bit), Focusrite Scarlett 18i20 3rd Gen, SD2.3, Reaper

                      Comment


                      • Viperr
                        Viperr commented
                        Editing a comment
                        hey Shuey,
                        I'm using a megadrum as well. I'm in the proces of building the hi-hat controller. So far I'm using an FSR, connected between the shield (gnd) and the signal. (no need for the supply pin). No resistor required. In MD I have seleted "footContr". So far I have been able to get the hihat bar in MDmanager to travel from open to closed by pressing down on the FSR with a finger.

                        I'm not sure if that will work in the ways of feeling because I still have to integrate it in the hihat stand. But for me it is a starting point.

                    • #13
                      Originally posted by shuey79 View Post
                      Sylv1co, did you use any resister? By any chance are you using a megadrum?
                      At the begining, I owned a TD-10/TDW-1 which was VH-11 compatible. With this module, no resistor was needed. When I moved to TD-12, my first tries was not so good (set to vh-11 or VH-12) then I added two variable resistors, one in serie and one in parralel.
                      the one in parrallele is optionnal, it's set to about 20K if I remember well.
                      The one in serie is necessary if you set the HH to VH12. It's set to about 6K in my case but it may vary a lot from one to another user I think.
                      I own a megadrum that peacefully sleep in my cellar... My first try with FSR was not so good if I remember well, but I also think that Dmitri has updated the firmware for VH-11 compatibility, and if it works with a VH-11, it should works with your FSR.

                      Comment


                      • #14
                        Thanks viper and sylv1co.
                        To help me understand (I have limited electronic knowledge), what does the resister actually do in this case? I think I read something about it making the function of the controller more linear? Is that right?
                        : 5 piece dual zone shells, Yamaha cymbals, VH-12 HH
                        : Megadrum, Windows 10 (64bit), Focusrite Scarlett 18i20 3rd Gen, SD2.3, Reaper

                        Comment


                        • #15
                          The FSR have a resitor range from about 1MOhms to about 500Omhms. With a 20KOhms resistor in parralel, the range goes from 20KOhm (in fact a bit under) to 500Ohms (yet a bit under). Check the Ohm law for more detail.

                          Comment

                          Working...
                          X