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Question for 2Box DIY build

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  • Question for 2Box DIY build

    Getting ready to go DIY with an A to E conversion and I have just a couple of simple questions. I've read through the sticky's and all the info I could find but some of it seems a bit dated at this point so here goes:

    For toms and snare, is the cake pan method with 35mm and 25mm piezo's the best way to go or is crossbar better on the 2Box? With no PS, does centering the cone matter or is it just easier to do that way? Is there anything I should know or consider to make my drums trigger optimally for the 2Box module? Seems an awful lot of the info I found was directed toward Roland builds (imagine that on a Vdrum forum!!).

    That's all I can think of at the moment. I'm sure there will be more as I get into this.

    Thanks,


    Mark
    www.RemedyRocksKC.com


  • #2
    I like the pans...but they are not necessary....neither is the cross bar for that matter. Side mounted triggers work just fine for the 2Box and are as simple as it gets. 35mm & 25mm work just fine too. It's really just a matter of budget and time you want to invest in the project and if you plan on converting them back and forth from A's to E's. If that's the case...then I suggest the pan design as a platform for easy removal end replacement for your build. Even then..you don't have to center mount the trigger if you don't wish to....and then there is the whole Quartz harness/Wronka Easy Trigger /Trigerra options too.
    8 piece DIY Acrylic, 2x2Box DrumIt5, Gen16 4xDCP, DIY Acrylic&Gen16 Conversions, Sleishman Twin-QuadSteele hybrid, Gibraltar&DrumFrame rack, DW9502LB, Midi Knights Pro Lighting
    http://www.airbrushartists.org/DreamscapeAirbrushRealm

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    • #3
      One thing I can offer is that if you want dual zones make sure the rim and head piezos are isolated from one another. Roland modules require a little crosstalk between them but the 2Box requires near complete isolation. At least that is my experience. Good luck with the build!
      TD-25KV, Yamaha DXR15, MG10. Senn 280HD.

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      • #4
        Chech out Jman from Stealth drums.com He can advise you on both cake pan and crossbar triggers for 2 box. I did a a to e conversion with some help from Jman and I. Couldn't be happier! I went the crossbar route and they trigger perfectly!

        Comment


        • #5
          Mark, if it's of any use to you, I too am just about to start the same thing. I'm going to be making some internal edge triggers and will hopefully have something to report in the next couple of weeks.

          Tim

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          • #6
            Originally posted by docadiddle View Post
            Mark, if it's of any use to you, I too am just about to start the same thing. I'm going to be making some internal edge triggers and will hopefully have something to report in the next couple of weeks.

            Tim
            That would be great! Don't forget the pics! (lots and lots of pics!!!)


            Mark
            www.RemedyRocksKC.com

            Comment


            • #7
              Originally posted by docadiddle View Post
              Mark, if it's of any use to you, I too am just about to start the same thing. I'm going to be making some internal edge triggers and will hopefully have something to report in the next couple of weeks.
              Tim
              UPDATE!
              I sourced the stuff and made my first prototype edge triggers last weekend. I basically mounted a 35mm piezo onto a simple L bracket sitting beneath the edge of the head as 2Box do on their own pads. I tried 2 different types of foam as supplied by Duncan (ItsMe; see elsewhere) and several different thicknesses but just couldn't get a strong enough signal. There was a signal but it would only produce sound levels up to medium hits. I should add that I am using Z-ed triple X heads which are 3-ply. I made a rim trigger simply by sticking a piezo onto the inside of the wooden shell with foam tape and it works fine. The head trigger does work well if played over or very close to it it but is quiet when playing in the centre. Don't know if it's a duff piezo or maybe that the 3 ply heads are not transmitting enough energy to the piezo. Have decided that I'm going to try the crossbar method next and will let you know how it goes.
              Cheers all.

              Comment


              • #8
                On your L bracket and piezo, try to add a firm foam, and not too thick. Shim the piezo if need be. Bt placing it away from striking zone, you shouldn't worry about damaging the piezo by hitting it.

                Even could try a spongy neoprene.
                DTX700, eDRUMin 4+10, A2E Dixon kit, Yamaha cymbals, FSR HH
                Kit Pix http://vdrums.com/forum/album.php?albumid=613

                My new venture, HiEnd Speakers. : voglosounds.com

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                • #9
                  Originally posted by docadiddle View Post

                  UPDATE!
                  I sourced the stuff and made my first prototype edge triggers last weekend. I basically mounted a 35mm piezo onto a simple L bracket sitting beneath the edge of the head as 2Box do on their own pads. I tried 2 different types of foam as supplied by Duncan (ItsMe; see elsewhere) and several different thicknesses but just couldn't get a strong enough signal. There was a signal but it would only produce sound levels up to medium hits. I should add that I am using Z-ed triple X heads which are 3-ply. I made a rim trigger simply by sticking a piezo onto the inside of the wooden shell with foam tape and it works fine. The head trigger does work well if played over or very close to it it but is quiet when playing in the centre. Don't know if it's a duff piezo or maybe that the 3 ply heads are not transmitting enough energy to the piezo. Have decided that I'm going to try the crossbar method next and will let you know how it goes.
                  Cheers all.
                  Hmm...sounds like you may need a better (read firmer) foam and/or do a few tweaks in the module. Then again your analysis of the mesh could be a factor also. My side mounted triggers using Quartz cones and DIY, Hart & Roland mesh all function equally and are very sensitive to center and far hits away from the trigger assembly on 8"-14" shells.
                  8 piece DIY Acrylic, 2x2Box DrumIt5, Gen16 4xDCP, DIY Acrylic&Gen16 Conversions, Sleishman Twin-QuadSteele hybrid, Gibraltar&DrumFrame rack, DW9502LB, Midi Knights Pro Lighting
                  http://www.airbrushartists.org/DreamscapeAirbrushRealm

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    Originally posted by fulrmr(Daniel) View Post

                    Hmm...sounds like you may need a better (read firmer) foam and/or do a few tweaks in the module. Then again your analysis of the mesh could be a factor also. My side mounted triggers using Quartz cones and DIY, Hart & Roland mesh all function equally and are very sensitive to center and far hits away from the trigger assembly on 8"-14" shells.
                    That's good to know. I am ordering some cones and triggers from Quartz as soon as he gets back from vacation. I have also already ordered a 3-ply Billy Blast Ballistec II mesh head for my snare. Figure I'll start with one drum and see how everything goes before I work on the rest. Gonna start with an "L" bracket build and go from there.
                    www.RemedyRocksKC.com

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                    • #11
                      Have you placed the piezo the right way around and is the mounting tape small enough to allow vibrations?
                      . digitalDrummer
                      Review index

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                      • #12
                        Originally posted by allanjohn View Post
                        Have you placed the piezo the right way around and is the mounting tape small enough to allow vibrations?
                        I'm sure the piezo is the right way up but not sure what you mean by the mounting tape being small enough? I've completely covered the back of the piezo (ie the plain brass side with thin double sided foam.

                        Comment


                        • #13
                          Originally posted by docadiddle View Post
                          I'm sure the piezo is the right way up but not sure what you mean by the mounting tape being small enough? I've completely covered the back of the piezo (ie the plain brass side with thin double sided foam.
                          Theoretically the foam on the underside should be about the size of the ceramic portion.
                          8 piece DIY Acrylic, 2x2Box DrumIt5, Gen16 4xDCP, DIY Acrylic&Gen16 Conversions, Sleishman Twin-QuadSteele hybrid, Gibraltar&DrumFrame rack, DW9502LB, Midi Knights Pro Lighting
                          http://www.airbrushartists.org/DreamscapeAirbrushRealm

                          Comment


                          • #14
                            Time for an update. I made a nice crossbar from square section aluminium with a central piezo but despite changing everything at one time or another (piezo, hard foam, soft foam, thin tape, foam tape, trigger settings and types) I just couldn't get a hot enough signal except by playing right over the piezo. My loudest strike wasn't triggering the loudest sample. No idea how you guys get it to work but I just couldn't.

                            Anyway, I decided to go back to my 2Box kit and had a look at how those pads worked. Simple enough, the reverse of Roland in that the piezo itself touches the drum head with foam between the ceramic side and the mounting plate. So I copied it and it works just perfectly, exactly like the 2Box pads, great sensitivity and dynamics. See photos as requested by daebedo....

                            https://picasaweb.google.com/1080287...eat=directlink

                            The piezo is stuck to the blue foam with double sided tape and same again to attach it to the mounting plate. The small block on the mounting plate is simply a spacer. I've set it so the piezo backplate sits about 2mm above the level of the bearing edge. The foam is from an exercise mat courtesy of Duncan (ItsMe) and I cut the discs with a simple and very crude punch made from some old copper tubing. It's actually a great way of making triggers because the foam gives complete isolation from the shell. The simple rim trigger also works nicely. I used a 27mm piezo for the head and 35mm for the rim. As you can see I've used an extension jack cable rather than mounting a socket in the shell. I might put one in a later date. It's been a great exercise and shall get on with the other drums in the next couple of days.

                            Also put in a photo of my manual. Cost 8 to have it professionally printed and bound, well worth it.
                            Last edited by docadiddle; 06-28-14, 06:17 PM.

                            Comment


                            • #15
                              That is a very interesting concept! Nice to have an alternative if I can't get my cones to work properly. Interesting that you reversed your piezo's compared to what most people seem to be doing (which would be 35mm for the head and 27mm for the rim). Thanks for the pics, those help tremendously in trying to understand the concept! Now all we need is video of you playing it so we can see/hear the dynamic response and triggering sensitivity! (too much to ask? yeah, ok... maybe.. but we can hope, can't we!!)

                              Mark
                              www.RemedyRocksKC.com

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