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Easy to make DIY HiHat controller

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  • Easy to make DIY HiHat controller

    Hi, really pleased to see this huge forum back, I post a new thread as all of mine have been lost after the attack.

    So this is my FSR based hihat controller which is the easiest I made. I tried linear pot wich died within a mounth, optical hh for meagadrum which worked great but need power source and fd7 conversion wich worked good but not perfect since it almost switches from closed to open (difficult to reach all in between articulations).

    See the two vids and the pics, hope you like it !

    In action, first with the in board sounds of the TD-10 and then with S2.




    Pics :






    Last edited by Sylv1co; 05-13-13, 12:27 AM.

  • #2
    Here's a second vid, showing the inside:



    It has no other component than the FSR, which is wired between tip and sleeve.
    Please note that because of the hole made in the FSR, there's now a dead zone into it where any pressure don't do anything left. That's not realy a problem but if the spring is not perfectly parallel with the fsr, The HH behavior may differ a bit depending on where the spring begin to touch the FSR.
    See the pic below :


    This design should also work with Yamaha modules which are compatible with the RHH130, At my knowledge, nobody has already try but the folowing schem should work :



    The FSR is made by Interlinks and it's the big square one (1,5') which is very sensitive, don't try with the very small round one, I almost sure it's enough sensitive. The 1/2 inch round one may work but without any guarantee.
    Some guys have already try this design after seeing my old post, but they all have put the FSR under the foot pedal, which is even far more easy to make (there was an old design made by Hellfire suggesting this idea).
    I can remember a post from someone how tells that he has been able to convert his Yamaha RHH135 to work with his Roland module just by putting this square FSR between the two cymbals (but no pics was posted, maybe know?)
    Last edited by Sylv1co; 05-13-13, 05:05 AM.

    Comment


    • #3
      Thanks Sylv1co for putting this thread back up.
      I was looking for it on cached pages of Google, and couldn't find it.

      I can personally say that this FSR works very well. I have done both, under the pedal (which is indeed the easiest) and under my single hat (still quite easy). Instead of a spring, I used foam of about the same density as the cones used with drum piezos.

      It triggers beautifully and helps getting all articulations under SD2, from tightly closed to fully opened, and everything in between. So far, it has been my best DIY project on my drums.
      A2E DIY Dixon kit. FSR HiHats. DTX700 + eDrum Modules. Yamaha + XM Cymbals. VSTs: AD, SD, DrumMic'a
      Kit Pix

      Website builder in my spare time, here's my latest work:
      www.hualienoutdoors.org
      cotfcanada.org
      aacycleproducts.com/

      Comment


      • #4
        Hi perceval,

        glad your HH works great, could we get some pics of your second setup (with FSR between the two cymbal)?

        Comment


        • #5
          Sure,

          I'll try to take some pics when I get the kit out again later this weekend. But I only have the top hat, no bottom hat. You'll see!
          A2E DIY Dixon kit. FSR HiHats. DTX700 + eDrum Modules. Yamaha + XM Cymbals. VSTs: AD, SD, DrumMic'a
          Kit Pix

          Website builder in my spare time, here's my latest work:
          www.hualienoutdoors.org
          cotfcanada.org
          aacycleproducts.com/

          Comment


          • #6
            I would like to see the FSR under the pedal mod as well if you have some pictures, or perhaps a link.
            Thanks!
            Jack

            Sabre's Album

            Comment


            • #7
              I remember Racer52 doing the mod under the pedal. This is one of his videos:
              http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ioJke..._order&list=UL

              As for what I did, I don't think I have any pictures anymore, but basically, I cut a small and not so thick square from wood as a bottom plate and taped the FSR to it. Sliding this plate under the pedal, I used the 2 screws that keeps the hihats stand from moving around on the carpet as a "stopper" and just used clip wires to make the electric connection to a female jack. Plugged the cable directly into the HH controller in the module and tried 3 different size and densities of foam blocks. When I got what I wanted, it played flawlessly!

              I didn't have to add washers and other stuff like racer52. Just the FSR on the plate, a piece of foam under the pedal and I was good to go!

              Hope this helps.
              A2E DIY Dixon kit. FSR HiHats. DTX700 + eDrum Modules. Yamaha + XM Cymbals. VSTs: AD, SD, DrumMic'a
              Kit Pix

              Website builder in my spare time, here's my latest work:
              www.hualienoutdoors.org
              cotfcanada.org
              aacycleproducts.com/

              Comment


              • #8
                Thanks so much for re-posting this thread!

                Do you still have the link to site where you bought the FSR?

                Thanks,

                TML

                Comment


                • #9
                  Thanks so much for re-posting this thread!
                  You're welcome,
                  I get the FSR from Robotshop, but digi-key also sell them and some other around the world. Just google "interlinks square FSR" you'll get some results.

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    I thought this was a pretty decent deal with the included voltage divider

                    http://www.trossenrobotics.com/1-5i-...istor-Kit.aspx
                    Jack

                    Sabre's Album

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      yup, i think this one is the easiest to get that conversion, my brain is yamaha dtxtreme2s, your schematic is working. but it less sensitive when i open and close fast. im sure its because im using 0,1uf instead of 100nf. since its 4 o clock in the morning..i guess i have to wait till the shop is open.
                      mine is pretty simple, i use the left side pedal of my yamaha double pedals, put some rubber on top of the base plate and put cylinder rubber under the footboard. and put the fsr in between. done! well not 100%

                      3927fcf7c0c817535d03e37cb20b7e16.jpg

                      Comment


                      • #12
                        Wow! You are using some hard components to apply pressure here.
                        I only had to use a piece of soft foam to get my FSR working beautifully at all range.

                        Maybe it is the added resistance in the loop that requires more pressure. ...
                        A2E DIY Dixon kit. FSR HiHats. DTX700 + eDrum Modules. Yamaha + XM Cymbals. VSTs: AD, SD, DrumMic'a
                        Kit Pix

                        Website builder in my spare time, here's my latest work:
                        www.hualienoutdoors.org
                        cotfcanada.org
                        aacycleproducts.com/

                        Comment


                        • #13
                          Originally posted by priatnasuardi View Post
                          yup, i think this one is the easiest to get that conversion, my brain is yamaha dtxtreme2s, your schematic is working. but it less sensitive when i open and close fast. im sure its because im using 0,1uf instead of 100nf. since its 4 o clock in the morning..i guess i have to wait till the shop is open.
                          mine is pretty simple, i use the left side pedal of my yamaha double pedals, put some rubber on top of the base plate and put cylinder rubber under the footboard. and put the fsr in between. done! well not 100%

                          3927fcf7c0c817535d03e37cb20b7e16.jpg
                          I think the capacitor has nothing to do with your problem. But becarefull, with the foam under the sensor like you did, YOU WILL DESTROY IT ! Put the FSR on a hard plate (it has a adhesive film under) and put some foam to apply the pressure, your FSR will be safe and you should get far better results.

                          Comment


                          • #14
                            Thanks Sylv1co for putting this thread back up.

                            Comment


                            • #15
                              Originally posted by Sylv1co View Post
                              I think the capacitor has nothing to do with your problem. But becarefull, with the foam under the sensor like you did, YOU WILL DESTROY IT ! Put the FSR on a hard plate (it has a adhesive film under) and put some foam to apply the pressure, your FSR will be safe and you should get far better results.
                              hi, how to improve the responsiveness? in hh 60 schematic i try before, its really fast using a stepped switch instead of fsr, or maybe i should modified it and incorporating FSR in it,

                              its not fully finished yet..its a hard rubber below the fsr and soft rubber to push it, and ill be cutting a hard fiber plate to put below..

                              i was using that green ceramic condensator, now a tiny brown one, it does improve a little bit. probably much better after i put hard surface. ill update..

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